Suzuki 2 Strokes

I was cleaning my 750 coils, etc. I understand its normal for the boots to pull off the spark plug wires. I accidentally pulled one spark plug wire on the other end of it, out of the coil itself. Wondering if this was normal ? I gave a very slight pull on the next coil spark plug wire. That wire also pulled out extremely easy. However, when I moved onto the last one it would not pull out. Even with a pretty descent tug. Are they all suppose to pull out of the coil assembly or not ?

They shouldn't pull out easily. Makes for a good opportunity to replace the HT leads.

Take a look at posts about replacing the HT leads:
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6940&p=122391&hili ... ad#p122391

If you are going to reuse the existing HT leads, its a good idea to trim the end a bit.

jabcb wrote:They shouldn't pull out easily. Makes for a good opportunity to replace the HT leads.

Take a look at posts about replacing the HT leads:
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6940&p=122391&hili ... ad#p122391

If you are going to reuse the existing HT leads, its a good idea to trim the end a bit.

When you say, " HT leads. " Are you referring to the orange and black wires or the spark plug wires ? With the spark plug wires being easy to pull out. Should I glue them back in with some epoxy, maybe ? I thought I should trim a fraction off that end of the rubber sheathing if the copper wire inside is not sticking out very far ? Should I also trim both ends ?

HT (high tension) leads are the spark plug wires.

The downside of trimming is that the wire may end up too short. Best bet would be to use new spark plug wires.

Reason for trimming the end off is to use "fresh" copper wire.

After you are done trimming, the end should be the same as it was.
Not sure what the end should look like -- instead of fussing with this I just replace the coils.
If the wire was flush with the rubber sheath, then it should be flush.
If it suck out 1/4" then it should sick out 1/4".

If you removed the plug cap then its a good idea to trim that end too.

PM Suzsmokeyallan if you aren't sure how to repair the coils.

Appreciate it. If, I elect to replace the spark plug wires only at any time. Could I use standard automotive wires ? Should I glue the wires in place ? I read the write up, but it doesn't answer those questions.

Your bike uses non-resistor HT wires -- the core is a multi-strand copper wire.
Your local bike shop probably sells suitable HT wire by the foot. Just show them the original wire so they know what you need.

Cars used to use resistor HT wires. Your ignition system will not work correctly with this type of HT wire.
Not sure what newer cars use.

Its advisable to make the new HT wire longer that the old wire. That way you can trim the wire if you ever replace the plug caps.

I've seen other posts about replacing the HT wires -- they used epoxy to glue/seal them in.
Looked for the posts but didn't find them.

Suggest you PM Suzsmokeyallan with your questions.

It was 7mm HT lead with a copper core of multi stranded wire I used for my rebuild. You only need to glue around the first 1/2 inch and the end of the wire on the coil case to seal out the moisture and lock it in place. A lot of modern cars use an HT lead with a nylon braid impregnated with graphite, a rather useless thing as it breaks down over time so don't buy it.
The HT leads for the GT are available on ebay for a few dollars and you buy it by how many feet/metres you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7mm-Copper-Core ... e2&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks, for the replies. Does it matter how far the new wires would be pushed into the coil housing ? Do I push it in as far as it will go without making the wires bend inside. I would think it matters how far they protrude inside the casing ?

Measure how far in it is to the end of the hole by the needles and then mark the wires to that depth so you will know you've pushed them in all the way. I also push in the wire slightly and then take a peek to see if the pin is in the middle of the braid of wire strands. If its not you can check to see if the needle is centred in the hole and adjust its tip carefully or make a small divot in the middle of the wires to ensure the needle is going into the middle of the wires and not alongside them.

Good suggestion about sliding something in to measure. I had no idea what it looked like inside until SuzukiDave posted that pic. Im not about to cut them open. I will clean out the holes of old glue and sheathing though. If someone decided to cut them open as pictured above. I suppose you could fill that large cavity with an epoxy or clear silicone to be sure the connection is right and no water seeps in ?