I had the circlip cap and later LMA piston arrangement inside on my 73k so not standard but no real difference in the job.
The top cap bobbin held in place on the o ring when the circlip was removed and gentle prodding with a large screw driver got it moving and having heard the war stories I kept my face well out of the way. My biggest problem was getting it back in. Definitely best as a two person job one to compress the spring while holding the stanchion and second to put in the circlip. I couldn’t find an easy way to vice hold the assembly without risk of damaging, possibly ok with stanchion back in steering clamps but then you have to remove bars and I worried about all the pressure with the front wheel off.
Most frustrating was getting the bobbin past the o ring step under spring pressure. It kept coming to a hard stop and I eventually found that pumping it up down repeatedly got it past. I assume the bobbin was tilting under the large screw driver blade. Having thought about it Possibly using a socket/ extension would be better but needs to be small enough to get the circlip through, and I didn’t try this and managed with wife help and large screwdriver.
I have heard that drilling/ tapping and fitting a bolt through the centre of the cap works well. This would locate a socket when pushing in and allow turning the bobbin which will help to release the bobbin coming out.
To get the fork seal out I had bought years ago a T shaped seal remover tool. This rests on the top of the fork tube ( which I protected) and under the seal. Unseen by me the tip of the tool under the seal gouged the outer seal locating surface as it pulled the seal up. Very annoying seeing the damage I had caused to something that had been ok for 50 years ! Mental note to ensure the tip is well inboard of the seal housing in future. I repaired the housing gouge using jb weld and wet and dry and it all seems fine after reassembly.
Since it had required a lot of force ( as noted by previous poster) to get the old seal out I had been worrying about getting the new seal in but being careful to drive it in square with a large socket it went in a lot easier than I thought.
I did have a concern about the piston securing bolt which didn’t seem very tight when I removed it, usually these are a bitch needing an impact driver on other bikes. Checked both threads were ok but Tightening it up didn’t seem to come to a hard stop so I just left it with only moderate torque. I think this is probably because you are tightening against the fairly thin tubular piston seat, described as an oil lock in the parts diagram.
Any how those are my musings, hopefully of use to someone contemplating this job
