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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 9:22 am 
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Location: Mostly Barbados, sometimes Florida and western Canada
When I had the first barrel to remove, I was going to follow the instructions in the service bulletin and make a set of those puller bolts.
I then had another problem on the 72 barrel I was making them for, there was hardly any material in the barrel for the required size of tap to cut the threads into, so they could not work on that barrel.
I then set about making the puller plates seen in the first post in this thread, one for myself and one for Suzukidave. Personally I think its much easier to make the puller plate.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 1:49 am 
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Country: Denmark
Bikes owned: T350 GT750 T125 RG250 RD125lc RD350lc RD400
A guy is listing some on fleebay UK if you don't have access to hardware etc.. Just saw it.. Cheers

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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:03 am 
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My Method:

Let me stress, you aren't, "pounding" with this method, you are letting the hammer drill vibrate the block loose! When you follow the directions below and set it against the intake or exhaust, don't push hard enough to make it pound or you could damage your cylinder!! The sound will change when it loosens....trust me, you'll know when it "pings"!!

Here’s the hot lick for doing this without damaging anything. Works like a charm. I wrote this last summer which is why it’s in the past tense. Since a GT750 block is one-piece attack it from both sides a little at a time. Don’t try to break the whole thing loose by using it too much on one side only. I posted this in another forum and have received “thank you”’s from every single person that has tried doing it this way.

I have a "parts" '70 H1 that I needed to remove the cylinders from to place on another engine. They were stuck solid. no matter what I poured in the bolt holes, they weren't letting go.



Here's the link to the pics....


http://s808.photobucket.com/album.../je ... 20removal/

I need to stress the proper technique so no one damages their stuff. Get your hammer drill (mine is a 1hp model), you can rent them at the local rental shop if you don't own one, don't waste your money buying one. Just be sure to get an ADAPTER bit, NOT a DRILL bit! This adapter bit has a hole in the end to slide other bits into, this is very important as you'll soon see. Place the bit over the carb flange adapter nut or an exhaust nut threaded onto the stud....just don't let this machine make contact with any fins or you will snal them! The adapter won't fit completely around the nut but you're not going to bugger it up too bad so don't worry. This will keep it from striking the actual cylinder and breaking a fin or two. Look at the pics, place your drill down low pointing upward and firmly against the nut on the carb adapter or exhaust thread. Hold your drill firmly and let it pound against the nut...shoot it like you do a machine gun, short deliberate bursts...it'll only take a couple and you'll hear the cylinder "ping" as it loosens. DON'T over do it, just let the tool get it loose then go and do your work and rock it off!!

Update- May 11 2014. As I began to tear down my 75 H1 yesterday, I found the cylinders "welded to the crank. On the Kaw triples, it's usually the studs that have corroded to the cylinder holes and it locks them up tight. My girlfriend watched as I pulled out my trusty hammer drill, fitted the adapter to it and moments later I was holding the right side cylinder in my hand with a smile on my face....moments!

Easy peazy....it just doesn't get any easier!

jeff

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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2014 11:24 am 
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Location: Ontario
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Bikes owned: GT750(Jx3,L,M,A,B),T500
jeff kushner wrote:
Here's the link to the pics....

http://s808.photobucket.com/album.../je ... 20removal/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


That link didn't work for me, but I did some sleuthing - this is the one ?

http://s808.photobucket.com/user/jeffku ... t=3&page=1

So the idea is you use the hammer drill (its actually more of a jack hammer eh ?) to 'push' the barrels off ? Interesting - I'll have to try this :up:

8)

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 6:44 am 
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NO, NO, NO...you don't PUSH the barrels off or you will surely damage them.....the tool simply provides a massive amount of vibration which almost instantly causes them to become loose. Once you hold the gun tight to the safe surface to apply it to, it doesn't really push but imparts the vibrations necessary to break the bonds holding it. If you aren't experienced in using one of these tools you should practice until you develope a feel for it.

jeff

PS, thanks for finding the correct link...I must have moved the pics

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:21 am 
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Well, upon returning from Mid-Ohio, I hand-trucked my 72 engine down to my basement shop expecting quick separation of the block from the crank. I left it sit overnight with a mixture of Acetone/WD40 in each of the holes. In the morning, I found only one of the holes where the level had changed...not a good sign. I installed a set of doublenuts/washers to protect the intake studs and inserted a couple of old handlebar bolts with nuts/washers into the two outside exhaust bolt holes.

Now I was setup for a quick removal.....I got my trusty 1/2HP hammer drill out, and proceeded to waste about 45 minutes in vain trying to remove the block without damage. I even managed to sheer off one of the intake studs so I spent the next 15 minutes drilling and extracting what remained of the stud. At that part went easily enough.

I have NEVER met a cylinder or block that didn't "ping" right off with this method but I have now...this is going to take a little more thought....updates as they happen!

DANG! Never be afraid to admit failure....because when you do, it's only temporary!


jeff

jeff

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Present: VStrom 1000 K7, Stock: '74 RD350,’75 GT550,'76 CB400F, '75 H2(purple), Modded: ‘75 GT550 restored & ported, '82 Yamaha 650Turbo running 18PSI,'74 H2B carbs-pipes-ported, project list:'72 & 2-'75 H1's, '82 Yamaha XV920, 74 GT750


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:32 pm 
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Thats too bad Jeff but we have seen the full range of remarks on getting the cylinders off . From popped right of with hardly a tap to having to cut the studs off and even spoiled cases where the stud broke a chunk out . Good luck on getting it to let go without any more damage :up:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 2:17 pm 
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jeff kushner wrote:
I have NEVER met a cylinder or block that didn't "ping" right off with this method but I have now...

Welcome to the club ! 8) To paraphrase Dave - sometimes easy, sometimes hard, and just occasionally a real pig of a job........... :?

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If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 12:30 pm 
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Yeah, I've been staring at that pile of aluminium and steel soaking in a slew of chemicals as I finish my Yammy 920 and my H1. Once the yammy is on fleabay and my H1 is running, I'll be back to it...in the meantime, I'm going to have to buy a drill press and a plate of steel.....unless someone has one they would like to lend a fellow smoker??? I'll gladly pay shipping both ways so please let me know if you have the tool....it would save me a few dollars but mostly, it would save me some fabrication time which is always in short supply!!

jeff

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Present: VStrom 1000 K7, Stock: '74 RD350,’75 GT550,'76 CB400F, '75 H2(purple), Modded: ‘75 GT550 restored & ported, '82 Yamaha 650Turbo running 18PSI,'74 H2B carbs-pipes-ported, project list:'72 & 2-'75 H1's, '82 Yamaha XV920, 74 GT750


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 6:00 am 
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I've got my steel plate and the hardware & drill press I bought should be delivered next week but it'll be 3-4 weeks before I'm ready to build the puller. Ah, the fun we have!!

jeff

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Present: VStrom 1000 K7, Stock: '74 RD350,’75 GT550,'76 CB400F, '75 H2(purple), Modded: ‘75 GT550 restored & ported, '82 Yamaha 650Turbo running 18PSI,'74 H2B carbs-pipes-ported, project list:'72 & 2-'75 H1's, '82 Yamaha XV920, 74 GT750


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:59 pm 
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Well after three weeks of filling the wholes with evaporust and penetration oil, I have given up on pounding this off. I bought a used head off of ebay for $35 and plan to try and use it as the puller. //Pat

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 12:30 pm 
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You're braver than I, I opted for some nice 1/2" plate steel and sticka of 8,10 & 12mm atr with a bag of high strength nuts and washers for each size.....then bought a drill press...a few more weeks and I should be ready to build it. Got to dump the Yamaha and finish the engine for my H1 first....order...projects need to be done in order (he says to himself).



Let us know how the alum head works out. I've seen others do it successfully and it's certainly cheaper and faster then starting from scratch.
jeff

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Present: VStrom 1000 K7, Stock: '74 RD350,’75 GT550,'76 CB400F, '75 H2(purple), Modded: ‘75 GT550 restored & ported, '82 Yamaha 650Turbo running 18PSI,'74 H2B carbs-pipes-ported, project list:'72 & 2-'75 H1's, '82 Yamaha XV920, 74 GT750


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 12:40 pm 
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One bit of advice is the bolts you use to bolt either head or plate to the block .. get bolts as strong as you can get and full depth of the holes in the block after they have passed through the plate . This gives you maxim chance of not pulling these bolts out of the block as you tighten the lifter bolts .

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 2:30 pm 
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Suzukidave wrote:
This gives you maxim chance of not pulling these bolts out of the block as you tighten the lifter bolts .

+1 to Dave's comment ! :up: :up: And even then, I have on a few occasions still had them pull out. Heli-coils are your friend .............. :?

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If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 8:15 pm 
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Yes the used head worked out well. I had to crank it all the way up as it never freed up until it was off. So what is the best way to clean the cylinder studs? I was thinking about a wire wheel on my drill.

Image

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