Suzuki 2 Strokes

To make a cylinder puller plate its advisable to use a piece of material of at least 1/2 inch thick flat steel plate.
Then using the cylinder head as a template, mark the locations of all the holes, then drill them out and tap the ones for the cylinder pusher bolts accordingly.
Use a 10MM X1.25 pitch tap for the best results and hardened bolts of sufficient strength and length to avoid damage to the bolt and threads in the plate when under use. See if you can find bolts with concave ends so they will sit onto the crowns of the engine studs and not slip off or skew to a side of the stud.
Also, use high tensile 8MM bolts for holding the plate to the barrel and make sure they have full length threads so you obtain maximum thread grip.
If you use the regular short 8MM bolts that were in the head they will stretch and possibly rip out the threads in the barrel.
The removal process depending on the barrels tightness can be tedious and slow, plus "keeping it even" is the way to go. Always watch the distance between the base of the barrel and the upper case when lifting.
Never let it tilt from left to right as you are in effect bending the connecting rods in this situation. A tilt from back to front or left to right also adds due tightness as you are binding the already frozen fit on the case studs.
Always monitor the tension on the bolts too, sometimes during the initial lift when its stuck the hardest its best to torque them; leave them for about five minutes, then give the bolts a sharp hit to the head and try for a another shift.
You will know if its moving by the way they turn right after a hit. A little freeness in the turn usually means it lifted a micron at the initial shift and you are on your way to removal.
Sometimes one or more studs will be extremely difficult at the initial move. You can feel this by the way those bolts are resisting the lift compared to the others. A bit of heat carefully applied to the lower area around the stud has been known to help, but you have to use your discretion when doing this.
Dont forget to be generous with lube on the bolt threads and some soaking with PB blaster down the stud holes beforehand cant hurt either.



Drilling the holes into two 1/2 inch plates I've clamped together.


Threading the holes to 10MMx 1.25 in one of the plates at a time.


Two puller plates made up and ready for use. One was for Suzukidave and one was for myself.


The high strength long 10MMx 1.25 bolts for pushing onto the case studs.


The puller plate mounted onto a barrel (photo courtesy of member Suzukidave)


Here I am with the barrel almost lifted clear of the studs, it was still a tight fit even at this height (photo courtesy of member Suzukidave)

Howdy, it's muddy up here,

The best remover I know of was designed in the Antipodes.
It's a 3-sided box - the vertical sides have "lumps" added which fit into the intake and exhaust ports. The top bolts to the sides and is drilled-and-tapped for lifting screws which push on the cylinder studs. Being a machinist I'd tie/box the ends together as well.
This comes from the "Smoking" website.
Gonnna make one soon.

Lee in Alberta

The plate puller concept was something that became the norm after Suzuki discovered a problem was in the making with this design of stud and hollow bolt mounting of the barrels.
They could have simply made the hollow bolts longer and the studs shorter but they didn't so now we have this mess to deal with on engines with frozen studs.

egor wrote:Lee in Alberta

Lee - depending on where in Alberta you are located, you might be able to borrow a puller, as there are at least a couple of them in the Buffalo owner community here. Drop me a PM. And you should also update your profile info with your location.

i am looking to buy hardware for one of these pullers if anybody has any theyd let go....i'd even sell it back to you.
or help me find a cheaper alternative from an online store ?

chance johns wrote:i am looking to buy hardware for one of these pullers if anybody has any theyd let go....i'd even sell it back to you.
or help me find a cheaper alternative from an online store ?

Gunnar has a list of several options you can try that do not require a special puller. The caveat is that if they are really stuck, you are potentially screwed (no pun intended ) - take a look at this link:

http://www.medial.com/suzuki/cyl-removal/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Maybe I've just been lucky, but I haven't had to make/use a puller on the engines I pulled down. I remove the head first and fill the bolt holes with EvapoRust, let it sit for a couple of days and the block does come up off of the studs with a little help from a block of hardwood and a small sledge hammer!!
Cliff.

i am making one of these to use now, and i would like to sell it to recoup ,some if not all of, my money into it. i probably wont need to pull anymore buffalo jugs.
so if anybody is interested in this tool for 100$(my cost was actually 110$ just for the materials) send me a message

Anyone have one for a T500?

Hi Allan, How long are the 10mm bolts used on the cylinder puller plate. cheers

They only need to be as long as the total height of the barrel, so a six inch bolt with near full threads should be fine.
Try to find bolts with a concave end as this will sit itself perfectly onto the curved top end on the case studs and stop them from walking off centre under torque loads.

thanks for the info, starting to move forward on the motor by pulling it apart first.

Hi everyone I'm a new member restoring a Dec 1973 GT750 L model. I've used one of these plates without success on my kettle in the end I tapped the head bolt holes made some inserts that were drilled and tapped and pushed the barrels off the crankcases with long 8mm bolts

jb56 wrote:n the end I tapped the head bolt holes made some inserts that were drilled and tapped and pushed the barrels off the crankcases with long 8mm bolts

So similar to the method described in the GT Service Bulletin #25 ?

I have also made a set of these up but like the puller plate better