Suzuki 2 Strokes

I recently purchased 3 1974 Suzuki GT380's. Long story short 1 sat outside since 1975 lol, 1 is a decent non-running used bike, 1 is a very very nice non-running survivor.
I had to remove the right clutch/timing cover to repair a kick start issue. I have set the timing on many, many Honda and Suzuki 4 strokes, however this is my first triple 2 stroke.
I have downloaded a manual from this site. The manual is not very clear on the correct procedure. I read through a few threads but the pictures in the threads were no longer available. I noticed a member "Rick" who seemed to think the dial gauge was not always the best way. I would like to learn more about the "no dial gauge method". Also anyone looking for parts that reads this feel free to PM me.
Thank you
"hope Rick responds"

Rick,
I hope I get this right.. When the right cover is off the bike you will see a metal pointer below and slightly behind the main gear. On that same main gear you shoul see a "dot" on the gear. Align the dot with the pointer, that sets the crank position first. Now, if you have an ND stator you will see behind the stator plate a rotating 3 sided "propeller" looking deal with "L", "R" and "C" marked on each finger. Molded in the aluminum cover is an alignment mark in the case near that propeller deal. Align that mark with the "C" finger then install the cover. This should get you pretty close, you will also then need to ensure your points are gapped correctly. I hope I explained this correctly, sure if I missed something another member will help.
Keith

Wavehog's advice is good. Also, do NOT NOT NOT under ANY circumstance try to turn the engine by using that inviting-looking nut on the end of the points camshaft. You risk breaking the nylon timing gear that drives the points shaft.

Turn the engine either by using the back wheel with the bike in gear; by the kickstarter; or by the nut on the LEFT end of the crankshaft, behind the generator cover. Remember that when you are looking at the points, the points cam rotates COUNTERclockwise when the engine is turning normally, because it's geared off the crankshaft.

You don't need a dial gauge to get the timing into the ballpark: if the things that Wavehog mentioned above are indexed right, just lining up the factory timing marks will get her running, and THEN you can use a dial gauge if you want. Unlike two-strokes from other Japanese manufacturers, Suzis tend NOT to hole pistons if the timing drifts by a flea's cock-hair ... they're not especially sensitive to timing changes.

Good luck with it -- keep us posted.

Remember to set the "L" points first. Position the "L" pointer on the casting mark. Loosen the mounting plate and rotate it till the points just 'break'. This can easily be determined by using an ohmmeter, a test light or the like. I made a nifty test light out of a cheap flashlight. It's always on till the points break at witch point it goes out because the circuit is open.
Anyway, set the left side first by rotating the plate. Set the other 2 by loosening the appropriate screws and moving the points. When all are close, the bike will run. Then you can get it spot on with a regular automotive strobe timing light. It's not rocket science but all those screws can sure get confusing till you've done it a few times.
"Hint", the screws are muck soft. Leave the phillips in the tool box and get a couple of flat heads that fit nicely. If you do use a phillips, you will soon render these screws useless. Suzuki gets a buck apiece for them.

Welcome to the board, janderson.
I'm probably the Rick that posted about the 380 timing thing.

The other guys have pretty well nailed everything down BUT pay special attention to Craig's post about how to turn the engine over.....and especially about how NOT to turn it over.
If you pull the plugs out and put the tranny in 5th with the bike on the centrestand, you can then lie down beside the bike and turn the engine over with your foot rolling the rear wheel around in the normal direction of travel while you mess with the points.

Do NOT/NOT attempt to clean the point contacts with anything other than spray contact cleaner and an unwaxed/rough surface business card. The tungsten plating on the contacts is extremely thin and once you're down to the steel parent material, the point set is history.

Yes, as posted above, a dial gauge and/or timing light is NOT necessary.....as long as you have a feel for CORRECT gapping of the points......and you're working on a totally stock engine with a totally stock induction AND exhaust.

I am clear on how not to turn over the engine! Thank you.

In Wavehogs reply he mentioned "stator" cover "propeller shaft".

I am assuming that he was tanking about the points cover cam cover.

Is there also a timing mark on the stator or generator side?

Thanks to all.

Thanks for everyones help. The bike is running.

The above procedure was correct except when installing the clutch cover you line up the "L" mark on a 380.

So, line up the dot on the crankshaft gear with the arrowed tab mounted to the case. Then line up the "L" on the propeller shaft with the t looking indicator that is a molded part of the aluminum case.

Good for you !!!!
Now you're a 380 ignition expert....at least on your block.