Suzuki 2 Strokes

I picked up a 71 suzuki t350 and i am having some issues with the auto oiler. i dont think it is working properly because i am getting alot of air bubbles in the lines and it is smoking more on the right side. i did have all the lines off and i had to clean them to get the gunc out of them. is there any rebuild kits for the pump or will i have to get a new pump. or should i pull the pump off, disassemble it , and clean it thoroughly? having a hard time locating a pump or any kits online or at dealers. In the time that i did have it running i was runnig a 32:1 premix just so i could test run it but i was told on another forum that that wouldn't work for a long period of time. i really want to get this bike goin for the spring and have it functioning properly.

The oil lines has check valves at the end banjos, if it is stuck open you can get air bubbles.

elbert wrote:The oil lines has check valves at the end banjos, if it is stuck open you can get air bubbles.

at each end of each banjo fitting? or where they go into the oiler? is it possible that i blew out the check valve in the fitting. because they had the sticky oil from sitting for 12 years built up in them i removed the lines, used some brake clean, and air to clean them but i hope that wasnt a mistake on my part. i havnt touched the pump yet.

Compressed air will destroy the check valves. Next time or if you locate another set, use a syringe and plain old isopropyl 9rubbing) alcohol. Can't tell you baout the pump because I don't have a T anything. The force fed Suzi 2 strokes all had check valves and they are delicate.
You were told correctly about not using premix as the bottom end bearings won't get any oil.

You can in some cases repair the check valves, thats if you are really careful opening them and that they can be disassembled easily by the skill of the person doing it.
Some times the spring gets bent or twisted and the ball jams but it can be re-straightened if its not damaged badly. This is of course all dependent on if you cant find another set easily and the valves on that set are all good.
Its possible to use compressed air to test the valves, BUT and I stress this again, BUT, you have to use extreme care. About 2 to 4 psi and no more, will move the balls enough to make the valve emit a sound that tells you its un-seating and re-seating.
The trouble is most people blast the valves thinking "this will clear them out good", and thats a sure route to valve destruction.

anyone have another set? if they are delicate, then they are toast. i feel ashamed of myself

I see you found us, glad you made it here. Keep posting and you will get it running with everybody's input. post pics if you got them.

is there any rebuild kits for the pump or will i have to get a new pump. or should i pull the pump off, disassemble it , and clean it thoroughly?

No, those pumps are NOT intended to be disassembled and/or repaired.
Having repeated Suzuki's official policy, these pumps CAN be disassembled and cleaned......BUT it takes a high level of skill and such a procedure is NOT recommended for someone unfamiliar with the process.
It seems you're a cautious type of person and that's good. The pump will probably be fine once you have your check valve problems sorted out. At that point you'll just have to try the pump as it is......but keep the 32:1 mix in the gas tank just in case.

Barry S. wrote:I see you found us, glad you made it here. Keep posting and you will get it running with everybody's input. post pics if you got them.

i got some in the restoration photo forum. I am going to have some more up later today.

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are you planing to restore this model.I have the orange colour that I am restoring.I estimated the cost of upgrade before buying but the actual cost is totally different.A guide is to estimate cost,triple it,add 20 per cent then ask the misses for more money cause its still not finished.good luck .Alan

alanr wrote:are you planing to restore this model.

I am slowly cleaning it up because it is the first bike that ive ever owned so every thing about it is almost new to me. I do plan on tearing it down next winter to get the frame powder coated and a couple other things. ill update the progress with it every couple days in the restoration field. i have acouple pics of it if you wanna see it.

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Sorry to hear you're having trouble with your oiling system. When I built my 1971 T350 just a year ago I had many of the same problems that you are facing. You have received some very good advise from the people hear on the forum. Many of them also helped me.
One of the things I want to stress to you is that premix will not get enough lubrication to the main bearings. The two outside bearings are pressure fed by the CCI pump. The center bearing receives it's oiling from the transmission oil supply. One of the reasons to make sure that you check the level in the transmission on a regular basis.
The oil lines have check valves that stop the crankcase pressure from blowing your oil back into the pump when running at pass idle speeds. As pointed out, these check valves are very small and can be easily damaged. Compressed air is a sure way of doing that. Ask me how I know! Some people have been able to clean them out with alcohol and a syringe. Mine were in to bad of a shape to clean them. Luckily I had a parts bike that had another set of oil lines which were in pretty good shape. Bubbles in the line from the pump normally mean an air leak either in the pump or the fittings or you just haven't gotten the air purged from the system in the first place. If you have the right side off the engine I found that you can run the oil pump with a drill hooked to the drive gear of the pump. This was a good way to make sure the air was purged from the system. I wouldn't pull the side cover off to do it if you don't have to.
Pumps and lines come up on Ebay all the time and some of them are not real expensive. You might take a look and see. You can buy them new from some of the parts suppliers but you will pay a premium.
I have yet to get my bike to smoke the same on both sides. One side just seems to smoke a little more than the other side. The plugs look the same when I do a plug chop. I wouldn't worry to much about a little difference. A lot of difference, I would worry.
I hope this helps a little. I did tons of research on this bike when I was having my problems. The bike is fun to ride and I'm sure you will be happy with it when you get your problems sorted out.

kmil

Got the oil lines in today (thanks Fred). Just gotta finsh acouple things up then i can take her for a spin.

Coyote wrote:Compressed air will destroy the check valves. Next time or if you locate another set, use a syringe and plain old isopropyl 9rubbing) alcohol. Can't tell you baout the pump because I don't have a T anything. The force fed Suzi 2 strokes all had check valves and they are delicate.
You were told correctly about not using premix as the bottom end bearings won't get any oil.

Oh how I wish I known this before I blew out my lines with 90 psi.

So hypothetically saying that I blew mine out with compressed air... What should I be looking for when I start it?