Suzuki 2 Strokes

I pray there is someone out there who can help! I have a 76 Suzuki GT380. I removed the clutch case to repair the clutch. When I put the case back on I didn't realize that I had to set the nylon timing gear. Anyone know how to position the gear back correctly? I cant get it tuned right being the gear is off in either direction. I tried bringing a piston to TDC and matching the timing mark with the mark on the case and it still seems far off and I can't adjust the points to fire right no matter where you move them or the points plate. PLS HELP! Thanks in advance.

Position the drive gear to the pointer as shown. Position the nylon gear so the 'L' aligns with the timing mark. Piston position is not relevant.

YOU ARE THE BEST MAN ALIVE!!!HAHA. GOTTA BUY YOU A DRINK. THANK YOU SO SO MUCH MY FRIEND!!!!!!

Well I seriously doubt I am the best man alive (ask my wife ), but do let us know how it goes.

Don't turn the motor with the nut, it will break the plastic timing gear.

Coyote wrote:Well I seriously doubt I am the best man alive (ask my wife ), but do let us know how it goes.

Ha, you must be--you're better than me and I'm in the top two!

Don't turn the motor with the nut, it will break the plastic timing gear.

Yes, very important, when turning the motor, be sure to remove the left cover and turn from that side.

Thank you for all of the advice. She still isn't running the way she did when I rebuilt the carbs and set all the new points the first time. A couple questions. The ears on the timing cam (L,C,R) when these are aligned with the mark on the clutch case are these supposed to be a guideline of 3mm BTDC to adjust the points? This is the marking which indicates where the points first begin to break correct? Just trying to dial everything back in in exact order. By using a dial indicator I set the point gap set at .014 or.35mm at 3mm before top dead center am I correct in this? If you have a straight forward tried and trued way to set the timing/points it would be greatly appreciated.

I want to help you man and you certainly are confused. See my instructions half way down on this page but disregard the numbers.
The correct numbers for a 76 380 are left and right 2.09mm (.083) amd center 2.05mm (.081). Gap is .012 to .016 for all models. All this is done with the ignition OFF!

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Yes, confused I was. This is my first time with points and I'm just learning, as I'm a mechanic for newer off road MX. After several hours of studying I fully understand now how the system works so thank you. I set the points to close at 3mm BTDC on each cylinder, will this work well or should I get back in there with my test light and dial indicator and get the points to close up 1mm later as you suggested? Thank you in advance. One very last question. What is the best way to sync up my carbs. I used this theory below but should I use a mercury synchronizer?
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http://www.3cyl.com/tripleed/suzigtcarb/39.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.3cyl.com/tripleed/suzigtcarb/37.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

All in all it if you had the option it is better to run the bike a little advanced compared to retarding it as a retarded engine tends to run hotter? Damn triple haha. I am spoiled with single cylinder CDI ignitions hahah.

You don't set the points to 'close' at a certain interval. You want to set the points to just break open at .080 -.083 brfore TDC.
Where do you live? I have a Suzuki triples manual on CD. I could send you a copy. It will help you get everything properly adjusted. The first pic I posted in the second post is from that manual'
So if you PM me your address, Ill burn it and send it Saturday.

Not to confuse you further, you do not adjust the gap of the points to open or close at a particular point.

These two adjustments are independent of each other, gap of the points needs to be set first.

1. You set the points at .014 at the highest position of the points cam, the widest the points will open.

2. Than you will adjust the points plate to have the points open at X number of degrees BTDC as per the links Chris gave you above.

You are all very kind. When I thought I had it figured I didn't. When I thought I had it figured the second time I didn't again after 4 hours with the dial indicator and test light. Now I think I finally,finally have the concept down now. She is running like a song. Currently TIG welding a 3-3 system for her. Should come out pretty cool looking. Using KX65 silencers and some custom chambers I pressed at my buddys shop. I will post some pics when it is all done. Thank you for your help and Im sure I'll have some interesting questions later on down the road haha. Anyone ever seen this bike? GT550 CHeck it out.
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Thank you Terry for your quick/simple explanation for that poor devil.
As a final note on all this, the marks on the three blade "propellor" are plenty good enough to run with on a STOCK engine.
For the A/R folks who wish to use a dial gauge....go right ahead and make yourself crazy. I have a dial gauge and have used it ONCE on my 550. Never again.
It took me THREE times as long to set everything "correctly" as opposed to the "propellor" method.
Your "smileage", however, may vary.
My .02 worth....

It took me THREE times as long to set everything "correctly" as opposed to the "propeller" method.

+1 Rick. I got it running after hours of work with an indicator. Then I checked with a timing light and it was still off a degree or two. Dialed it in with the light to the propeller marks and it runs much better than all that wasted time with an indicator. With a timing light you can dial it in with the engine running and see your results immediately. The trouble I encountered with the indicator is it seemed to vary a few thou. with each revolution and always changed when you tightened the screws.