Suzuki 2 Strokes

I just stripped down my t500. What I believe is the shift fork shaft is bent, im under the impression that it needs to be straight. Is this something I can repair without cracking the case, is it indicative of other problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Im new to motorcycling and hoping to get this bike running by summertime. Also I will try to post some pics of it tomorrow.

Better to put some photo's on so we can see what you mean if the fork is bent there must be more things going on.
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; take a look at the parts cat. maybe it will help with ident ifing the correct part
Andy

here are some pics, its the rod that attaches to the clutch cable.

There's two pieces to the clutch pushrod. The other piece sticks out in the center of the clutch to lift the pressure plate and disengage the clutch. Each push rod has a flat end and a slightly curved end. When you put the new one in, make sure you insert the flat end first.

Speaking of cracking the cases, this may be something you want to think about doing anyway. Since your T500 is a '72 chances are it needs the oil mod done to it:

http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/t500_files/oilmod.htm

Also wondering if you did a pressure test on the engine before you started working on it to determine if the crank seals are okay? You can put together the stuff needed for a pressure test for about $25 and I describe the process here:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3137&p=97825#p97825

There's a scan of the factory shop manual here:

http://file.walagata.com/w/sundialmotos ... kiT500.pdf

In case you need it.

Hope this helps!

Jim

diamondj, the link you have supplied for the shop manual doesn't work...i would really like to use this resource as well, perhaps you copied it wrong or something
thank you
merckid

I think its actually:

http://file.walagata.com/w/sundialmotos ... kiT500.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Takes a while to load (really big file) so be patient !

Thanks everyone, got a new one on order. Crossing my fingers that it didnt cause an other problems. It looks like the guy who had it before me did a bunch of half-ass repairs. I've read about the 1400cc oil dam fix and am I correct that the 1200cc oil dam only causes problems at high rpm when 4th and 5th gear is used?

diamondj wrote:There's two pieces to the clutch pushrod. The other piece sticks out in the center of the clutch to lift the pressure plate and disengage the clutch. Each push rod has a flat end and a slightly curved end. When you put the new one in, make sure you insert the flat end first.

Possibly a dumb question Jim, but just for clarity - so these get installed flat to flat with the domed ends facing out to either side ?

oldjapanesebikes wrote:

diamondj wrote:There's two pieces to the clutch pushrod. The other piece sticks out in the center of the clutch to lift the pressure plate and disengage the clutch. Each push rod has a flat end and a slightly curved end. When you put the new one in, make sure you insert the flat end first.

Possibly a dumb question Jim, but just for clarity - so these get installed flat to flat with the domed ends facing out to either side ?

Exactly! Flat to flat with the domed ends facing out.

Jim

dfields82 wrote:Thanks everyone, got a new one on order. Crossing my fingers that it didnt cause an other problems. It looks like the guy who had it before me did a bunch of half-ass repairs. I've read about the 1400cc oil dam fix and am I correct that the 1200cc oil dam only causes problems at high rpm when 4th and 5th gear is used?

The wear will occur any time you are running in 4th or 5th gear regardless of RPM. If you don't want to crack the cases, carefully measure in 1200cc's of a good quality oil - synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle specific oil might be your best bet - and hope for the best. When you hear 4th and/or 5th start to whine, you'll need to replace the gearbox.

Jim