GT250/380 Front Fork Plug Removal

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:53 am

I'm working on installation of a GT250 front end onto the 750 dragbike and the fork end cap (seat, spring) is not cooperating. I have the MAB version so the end cap has an "O" ring and is retained by a snap ring (as opposed to the JKL version with the threads).

I removed the snap ring and the surrounding area above the snap ring groove is very clean...gave it a shot of lubricating oil to help it slide. I suspect the O-ring is getting hung up on the groove as it tries to pass by. There is no oil in the fork and I cant compress the slider tube any further to nudge the end cap and O-ring past the groove.

Any advise...

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:01 am

I never can get them out by compressing the spring. What works for me is to pad the upper fork leg and clamp it gently in a vice. Then I use a short rod and a hammer to rap on the retainer plug. Usually 4 or 5 raps and they pop right out.

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:12 am

worked like a charm....thanks Coyote. I owe you one.

(just out of curiosity, have you ever converted the end plug (seat, spring) to utilize a schrader air valve? I was curious if the existing O-ring would hold about 60 psi static)

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:11 am

10 psi is usually enough to blow the fork seals. I set my RZ350 to ZERO psi static.

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:14 pm

Another trick is to invert the fork in a container and just press down quickly on it a few times. The spring pressure usually pops the cap flush so all thats needed is to raise the fork slightly and with a little push on the top the cap drops out with the oil going into the container the same time.

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:25 pm

Allan, I tried that approach a few times until I realized I was shooting a stream of oil across the garage. I forgot I had taken the bleed screw out earlier this morning and I didnt have my glasses on at that moment. It took me a few times before I caught on to the strange noise that kept coming from the garage door everytime I pushed the fork down.

I noticed that the end cap was not perfectly flush so assumed it was getting cocked in there...so, I tapped very gently on the high side as Coyote explained and finally it eased out.

Thanks for the help guys...I only have 3-1/2 more pages to go on the check list before the bike is running again...(thats just the items I know about).

Richard, 10 psi static? Thats it? Maybe thats not the route to go...one good bump on the track and it could be serious problems.

Tom Garcia · Post by **Tom Garcia** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:19 pm

When I have problems like this...placing my eye in close proximity usually does the trick!

HEY KEVIN!!! YOU EVER RETURN VOICEMAILS????

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 3:32 pm

Hi Tom,

I will give you a call tonight....sorry....its been a bit hectic.

Kevin

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 3:56 pm

Kevin you had other issues you failed to mention in your first post, so now youve got oil everywhere

.
I cant explain what caused your top caps to get cocked on an angle but the two sets of 76 buffalo forks I've done with the caps have all worked out really easy with removal.

water cooled · Post by **water cooled** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:45 pm

Allan,

It was very slight when the cap cocked inside the tube. I could barely tell but I saw a tiny gap on one spot and suspected it was hanging up on the snap ring groove.

I tapped very lightly on what I thought was the high side and that was it. They both slid out after 4-5 light taps like Coyote said.

I'll get the forks flushed tonight and filled, then get them installed. I cant take any credit for this modification. It was given to me by a dragracer in the UK but I think the GT250 forks are really going to change the appearance. I switched the stock caliper with a Grimeca and replaced the stock 19" front wheel with an 18" alloy wheel. It really knocked down the rotating mass. I'll post some pics once its done.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:16 am

Kevin,

Mine did the same on a GT750. They naturally cock in the tube and need help to get them out. I tapped mine down and that was enough to shoot them across the shop.

I have no idea what Suzuki were thinking when they came up with that brilliant design change. maybe it cut 10 cents off the cost or something.

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:07 am

The idea isnt that bad and its a cleaner look with the rubber cap, i made some of the top caps in aluminum to prevent rusting for the two sets of forks i have and it shed the all important weight. oooooooooohh
The only things this design did save on was no threading in the fork and not using a chrome hex bolt for the top if thats the idea behind it all.

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:28 am

For what it's worth, my GS1000 has fork air fittings (stock). The recommended pressure is 11.4 psi. It goes on the say that this pressure may be adjusted per rider preference -- not to exceed 35 psi. The thing the factory manual stresses most is that both are alike within 1.25 psi.

Tom Garcia · Post by **Tom Garcia** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:36 am

Coyote wrote:For what it's worth, my GS1000 has fork air fittings (stock). The recommended pressure is 11.4 psi. It goes on the say that this pressure may be adjusted per rider preference -- not to exceed 35 psi. The thing the factory manual stresses most is that both are alike within 1.25 psi.

What year GS? The GS1000 forks on my H2 Special and on my GS1100 have an equalizer tube and only a single Schrader...