what crank casing sealant to use

[grahamS]

Hi, Peeps.

I went on a 110mile ride yesterday, and the bike devoured the 2t oil, very smoky, blue haze.
bike still not runing good, so I have desided to strip engine and have the crank re done, and check ever thing, replace bearings and seals etc.

some more info required please.

what is the best sealent to use on crank casings.

thanks in advance

[jabcb]

I’m inclined to think that it’s good to replace the crank seals now if even you aren’t sure of the need because of the current parts & service availability.

Crank main bearings are usually ok, perhaps because of Suzuki’s direct oil supply to those bearings.
I use ThreeBond 1184. Also sold as Yamabond & Hondabond.

The GT550 service manual has pretty good instructions.
The GT550 motor is pretty heavy — too heavy for an old guy like me to remove/install the motor by myself.

[jabcb]

Not sure what you meant by “smocky”. (I’m from the other side of the pond.)

Suzukis use 2 stroke oil rather sparingly. Might get 400~500 miles per quart, depending on how you ride.
If it hasn’t been ridden in some time, it may take a tank or two of fresh gas to get the bike running in top form.

[grahamS]

Not sure what you meant by “smocky”. (I’m from the other side of the pond.)

Suzukis use 2 stroke oil rather sparingly. Might get 400~500 miles per quart, depending on how you ride.
If it hasn’t been ridden in some time, it may take a tank or two of fresh gas to get the bike running in top form.

Hi jabcb thanks for info.
sorry misspelt " smoky" clouds of smoke, or blue haze. the bike used about 600ml on that run, oil dripping out of exhaust pipes.
the right hand side pipe got blue, so over heating I think.
heads off, and left side gasket leaking, not much though.
another question, how do i get the black pipes off the backs of cylinders, I wont to remove them to make engine lighter to lift out.

[Alan H]

Gently prise the pipes off with some long nosed pliers.
Personally, I then throw them away and replace them with 2mm internal diameter silicone tubing from such as ebay with 4mm pipe clips to hold them in place. Write down where they come from as they need to be in the correct sequence (which is actually marked on the rubber grommets they pass through). I also remove the clutch etc. to make the motor lighter - see here - https://www.kettleclinic.co.uk/kcforum/ ... 5&start=40 (bottom pics) and refit the motor in a similar condition.

[grahamS]

thanks alan

This is all new to me, so going cautiously, I dont wont to fook up somthing that cant be replaced.

graham

[jabcb]

The intake pipes have a “nib” that holds them in place. Not easy to pull them off even when new.
Apply sideways pressure to work past the “nib”.

Online parts retailers offer discounts & are reasonably good at identifying what parts are still available.
The intakes pipes are available new. That’s the best solution if it’s in your budget.
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gt550-1973 ... 81666.html

I remove the top end (cylinders & pistons) with the motor in the frame. The reduced size & weight makes it a lot easier to get it out of the frame.
As Alan said, removing the case covers, clutch & etc will make the motor lighter.

As an old guy, removing/installing a T500 motor is doable by myself. But a GT550 is a bit too much & a helper is needed.
A strong young helper had a GT550 motor in the frame before I finished explaining how we were going to do it.

Printed versions of the parts & service manuals likely will make the process easier. New copies are available on eBay.
Take lots of pics — a cell phone camera is good enough for this. Use containers to keep parts separated.

Suzuki two stroke crank & carbs experts are in the UK. Recommend using both. Perhaps one of the UK members can provide you their info.

[grahamS]

jabcb, thanks you.

Im 69, and will struggle as well, so will get my son inlaw to get it out.( he's going to help get the 750 CB engine out) got to do the head gaskit on it.

The pipes are a bit pricey at CMS, but I will proberly go for the gen ones.

cheers

[grahamS]

up date, engine out.

The left crank looks to have more oil on it, than the other 2, and some scoring on piston.

[grahamS]

some photo's
a lot of this slim type stuff, it looks like aluminium.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/34572iuCnL2Tq4Kd9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aKpqLHLnkY2FKbq76
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tuS4RSryc91mAZsP6

scoring on left piston
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n83XVLS9FQX76vVe9
blacking on pistons
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yKiLP5r2kBwdkFFu8

[grahamS]

Hi, peeps, help again please, torque setting for the sris valve's, I got a suzuki service manual and a haynes, both have nowt.
Haynes manual is totaly useless no torque settings at all.
also, are the springs avalable.

graham

[joolstacho]

ThreeBond.

[Alan H]

Hi, peeps, help again please, torque setting for the sris valve's, I got a suzuki service manual and a haynes, both have nowt.
Haynes manual is totaly useless no torque settings at all.
also, are the springs avalable.

graham

As they are brass going into aluminium, they only need to be 'nipped' gently or they will shear.
Don't ask how I know that.......
Some of the very early ones are push in, without threads.
Not seen springs available for ages.

Remember that SRIS valves and CCI valves work the opposite way when you strip & rebuild them - SRIS valves have the ball nearest the engine so oil can get out, CCI valves have spring nearest the engine so oil can get in. Also, never use compressed air to test them!!!

[grahamS]

Morning Mr H, thankyou yet again.

I ended up getting new valves from classic bike fastners.
cranks shaft been done, awaiting seals and bearings, for the internals of casings, should be here by the end of the week, so hopfully back together by the end of next week.
If other things don't get in the way.

ps; Ive got to clean the cci pipes and valves, pump, and tank, at some point, I'm going to use fully synthetic 2smoke oil, so they need a good clear out of the old oil.

graham