Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hi guys - it’s a few month since I’ve logged in
The Gt 750J has found a new home but it’s not all bad news - it has been replaced by. T500 which is much lighter and easier to handle . However it has excessive play in the throttle cable in as much as when I close the throttle off it seems to close even more and twists close another 10 to 15 degrees at the twist grip

I’ve removed the cables from the carbs and they appear brand new - I’m convinced the problem lies in the handlebar switch gear - could there be a stop missing in there

Any advice would be appreciated as it’s unnerving to ride with this amount of play

Take the air box & intake boot off. Make sure the carb slides snap back to the closed position the way the should. (I've had slides that wouldn't.)

The throttle tube could be binding up as well. Perhaps the grease has turned sticky. (Somebody may have used the wrong type of grease.)

Use carb cable adjustment procedure that’s in the manuals.
Manuals are here:
https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_ ... /index.php

There are different types of twistgrip, so if someone has fitted (say) one from a GT380, the hole that the cable nipple goes in is in a different place and gives exactly what you have. I had a 550K with a single pull cable on separate carb type twistgrip (twin pull - to close as well) which was like yours until I stripped & changed it.

Bingo - exactly that - I changed the twist grip after taking mine down to JMC in Stockton and he had a boxfull which he kindly let me take a couple to try

Thanks for the responses - I’m now trying to resolve leaking oil lines from the oil pump to the crankcase as oil is lying and pooling on top of the engine block

'Paint' the leaks with 2 pack clear resin glue.
The valves are stripable but make sure you assemble them the right way (spring nearest the engine, ball towards the oil pump) or the oil can't get through. The SRIS valves under the engine are the opposite way. There's details on here if you do a search . (Quick links, search top left under tge bike pic.)

Whats the method for disassembling the fittings from the oil lines? I'm able to easily get the metal ferrule off, but the plastic lines are really tight and I'm afraid of destroying them. Thanks,

Yes if humanly possible, leave the oil lines alone!
If there's no air bubbles coming through that is. Once disturbed they can be difficult to re-seal 100%, and hard to replace.

Hard to tell if oil is moving with my lines as they are the old "red" versions.

Another source of 2 stroke oil pooling on the crankcase, is oil pump, seals and o-ring leaking.

I think that red colour might be oil IN the lines, not red coloured tubing.
I'll stand corrected but I think those oil lines are transparent.

I thought that too, but my understanding from the guys on the FB forums is the early (72-73) lines were red and the later were clear. I do have a set which are clear and probably should use those.

Regarding red OR transparent oul feed tubing, If you got the info on farcebook chances are that it's heresay! I'd confirm it here or with an authoritative source.

Yes that is good advice!!!