malky wrote: ↑Wed Sep 21, 2022 8:29 am
Cheers Alan I was on the right setting then but why couldn't I get a reading with the engine running - I did an ohms test static and got an open circuit result so assume the windings are OK
If you get open circuit, then there's no connection through the windings. You should have a 'low' resistance of 'a few' ohms - as per the manual - with the engine stopped.
If the engine is running, you should get a ~Volts reading - possibly well over 20 volts as it is 'no load' when not connected to the rectifier.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
malky wrote: ↑Wed Sep 21, 2022 8:29 am
Cheers Alan I was on the right setting then but why couldn't I get a reading with the engine running - I did an ohms test static and got an open circuit result so assume the windings are OK
If you get open circuit, then there's no connection through the windings. You should have a 'low' resistance of 'a few' ohms - as per the manual - with the engine stopped.
If the engine is running, you should get a ~Volts reading - possibly well over 20 volts as it is 'no load' when not connected to the rectifier.
Alan, if my understanding of what he did is correct, he disconnected the alternator & checked the resistance between one of the alternator wires & ground.
The alternator wiring does not have a ground connection, so an open circuit is a good reading for this test.
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Hi all - after a long time waiting for some divine intervention I got back in the garage for another crack at this,changed the rectifier for one of Alan H 's modded ones and wired in the GT500 two wire regulator and normal service is resumed 14.4v at 4k revs and just over 12v at idle result!
Thanks to everyone for their input
Mal.
Alan H wrote: ↑Mon Jun 05, 2023 11:31 pm
That's taken some time Malky! I'd forgotten all about it!
Glad it' all over (not the Dave Clark 5 version though!!!
I don't rush these days Al,actually swapped the the units over a couple of months ago but didn't get a chance to check if it had sorted the problem until last weekend when I took it out for a spin - got a feeling it was the regulator was at fault as I tested the rectifier with a meter and it seemed OK but swapped them both anyway as I was in there - Still don't understand why the original regulator is connected to the indicator circuit and the GT version isn't though