Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hi, what kind of rectifier is this? Will it work ok?, Also the frame lock stops just a bolt with a spacer is it supposed be a welded part of the frame? Finally can left crank seal be done without splitting cases after rotors removed? Cheers

Splant wrote:Hi, what kind of rectifier is this? Will it work ok?, Also the frame lock stops just a bolt with a spacer is it supposed be a welded part of the frame? Finally can left crank seal be done without splitting cases after rotors removed? Cheers

Deleted my first reply and pics....thinking of a different part but yes, it is suppose to have a solid step down. The upper part for the steering stops and the step down for the 'forked' steering damper plate. I didn't see any close up pics on the net so I went and took a picture of mine but my phone won't let me email it to myself so I could then post it. I had pretty much reset my phone and I think that is why.

I can't help any on that electrical component you posted.

t500 rectifier is the same as the gt250 component. i've got a spare if you need one?
cheers, dd.

Several companies sell single-phase full-wave rectifiers that look like that. They are a bit more efficient than the original Suzuki part — they produce less heat & more electrical output.

Here is one marketed for vintage British bikes. Those British bikes were positive ground so the wiring diagram is a bit different than what you’ve got.
https://www.britishmotorcycleparts.co.n ... te-1-phase

If you are rewiring the bike, I suggest you upgrade to a modern rectifier/regulator.

Cheers all ,thanks dd but as long as it works im fine, managed do left crank seal ,fingers crossed for the other 3 when I try next week.

Splant wrote:Cheers all ,thanks dd but as long as it works im fine, managed do left crank seal ,fingers crossed for the other 3 when I try next week.

OK I'm curious now. The other 3 what?

seals maybe? 2 in the middle of the crank, and one on each end, just like the ramair 250's
cheers, dd.