Suzuki 2 Strokes

Well not totally it sounded nice and quiet but only run a few minutes and smoked awfully ,I thought I could get away with just the outer seals renewing but lots of gearbox oil came out of crankcase drain bolts. So complete strip down again! I was a bit dubious of the seals i got from robinsons they seemed a bit harder than the ones I took off and had turned a bit grey also the big o rings were skinnier and not in a genuine packet so buying elsewhere this time.Does it matter which side crank you split to get at the centre seals ? So I can leave one big end undisturbed.

hi mate, it doesn't really matter which side you take off, they're both as awkward alpha sports have middle seals for the t500 at about $30 plus post for the pair, but try phoning sep in kegworth first and see if they have any in stock.
cheers, dd.

Great thanks ,what's the awkward part ? I've done a load of rd cranks but they're splined also did a h1 triple and it even revved smoothly to 8500 God knows how I trued that one up! i know it took a while . Also once spark plugs have oiled up are they knackered for good or will washing in petrol revive them ? I oiled about 6 up before I realised it wasn't going to clear.

Splant wrote:Well not totally it sounded nice and quiet but only run a few minutes and smoked awfully ,I thought I could get away with just the outer seals renewing but lots of gearbox oil came out of crankcase drain bolts. So complete strip down again! I was a bit dubious of the seals i got from robinsons they seemed a bit harder than the ones I took off and had turned a bit grey also the big o rings were skinnier and not in a genuine packet so buying elsewhere this time.Does it matter which side crank you split to get at the centre seals ? So I can leave one big end undisturbed.

Not something I would attempt my self but aside from the witness marks you will be making, here are crankshaft dimensions as a back up if you have not seen them and if needed ....scroll down a bit http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/techb ... %206-9.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

Good Luck

Too bad about the seals but at least you can add that missing tachometer gear washer you mentioned in another thread.

I would also replace the kickstarter pawl also while you have it apart....tiny chip or even slight wear on that $4.00 part could mean no joy when you go to use the kickstarter one day.....been there....done that and I always keep a couple of spares including the pin and spring.

Just sayin...

Great tips it did slip a couple of times when kicking it over 100 times ,for some reason the plug leads needed swapping over must have mounted them wrongly, must need leads coming out the rear not the front ? ,glad I didn't strip it for them shims before as well , cheers all. Let you know how i get on with the crank ,bought a bearing splitter but they never look to be thin enough to get behind the bearings,soon see.

Yes, the HT leads face forward coming out and crossover.... rightside fires left side and vice versa.

There is a thread or a blog about a setup for splitting the crank a fellow made. I thought it was in the Muzza's ozebrook site but maybe not. I could not find it on a quick search yesterday. Perhaps someone else knows what I'm talking about and can post it but maybe you can have success with the way you plan on doing it.

You did seal the mating surfaces of the crankchamber's back wall very well...correct? Gear oil could get sucked into the chamber via even a small breech.

Yes coated top and bottom cases with threebond ,I saw a thread myself somewhere about rebuilding a crank it looked very complicated plates and long bolts everywhere ,hope i don't need all that . On yamahas they have a rubber ring that goes behind the pinion gear nut in the keeway slot .I'm wondering whether oil can get sucked through there ?

Yes, that's the crank splitting set up I was talking about. You're right, the set up was a little 'intense'.

About the pinion gear/woodruff key issue....been to long...trying to picture the set up but as long as all the parts are there, not damaged and configured correctly, I can't think of a problem that would arise.

Very good chance that the center crank seals are toast as you suspect.

I've had my crankshaft rebuilt twice for center seals in the twenty five years I've owned the T500.

Edit; I'm still 'on the fence' as far as using some possibly too hard/too aged OEM seals or pattern/reproduction fresh seals next time.....that is if they are in fact pattern and fresh.....

I,ll put some blue hylomar under the washer to be certain,anyhow couldn't wait for my bearing splitter ,that probably be useless anyhow and used screwdrivers to remove bearings, tapped either side then claw hammers opposite each over.
I've a 12 ton press with a 20 ton bottle Jack swapped over,and it took all 20 tons to push the centre pin out . Worst side seal just fell out once circlip removed,it would be leaking more around the edge than the centre of the seal .then screwdrivers and claw hammers plus blowlamp to pull centre bearing off ,other side not as bad but still can rock it on the centre shaft .It's amazing it started and ran really.
Hardest parts putting it all back though ,the press kind of jolts to far when pressing the things together,and it's a heavy bugger have on my knee hammering to true it. It's weird how finding knackered parts is so rewarding. Pawl and kickstart spring ordered.

Splant wrote:................Hardest part is putting it all back though ,the press kind of jolts to far when pressing the things together,and it's a heavy bugger have on my knee hammering to true it..............Pawl and kickstart spring ordered.

Getting a little "awkward" is it? Sounds like you can handle it though.

Are you talking about the kickstart pawl spring or the kickstart shaft return spring? I would go ahead and replace the pawl spring and the pin even if there is only the faintest sign of wear on the end of the pin. You should have all the 'meat' you can in these parts since it's hard to tell if the teeth inside the ratchet gear are worn .....nothing to compare them to.....the gear is no longer available from Suzuki so better to have that new 'sacrificial' inexpensive pawl and it's counterparts.

If you are talking about replacing the kickstart return spring...that's good or at least inspect it to see if the end that goes in the shaft is showing signs of a potential break very close (just a few mm) the to end of the spring. I have replaced that spring twice because the very end broke off. Once long ago and once not so long ago but that was when I was when I was doing an exorbitant amount of riding and I still ride the T500 some almost every day of the year. I think next time I have the engine apart I will tame the sharp rim of the shaft hole just a hair. That may had contributed to the break also...maybe not.

Anyway, again, Good Luck. Sounds like you are moving right along.

Yes happy how it's going so far ,just waiting on the seals from u.s. £21 ,oem. No didn't get the pawl spring ,just the big one as mine was rusty in parts I,ll try amend order before they send them to include the small one and pin, I,d recommend everyone buy a press its been so useful .

dorT500 wrote:Yes, the HT leads face forward coming out and crossover.... rightside fires left side and vice versa.

Apologiess for brief hi-jack.. Is this ^^ true for all twins inc GT250? Ta.

It's bonkers isn't it ,worth a try if it won't start and if you've got a spark and plugs are getting wet .

Suzuki varied the coil mounting on the twins. On some the HT leads face the front while on others they face the rear.
Take a close looks at the pics on SuzukiCycles.org & you’ll see it.

I just much sure that the left points fires the left plug when I’m not sure if its correct.