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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 5:29 am 
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Around the block

Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:55 pm
Posts: 60
Country: USA
Bikes owned: GT100, GT500
75 GT500:

- Do not know when was last time clutch cover screws were opened.
- Could be unopened since decades/or two.
- There are marks of attempts to open, since the screws look like almost on the verge of stripped.
- I do not own impact wrench ( thinking of renting or buying cheap/electric used one )
- Will electric impact wrench have enough power to open screws? or only high powered air impact wrench is needed.
- I do not have any experience with impact wrenches, so not sure about its potential and applicability in my situation.
- Is there any other method that I should be trying?

What are my options at this point?

Thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 4:53 am 
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On the main road
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Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:38 am
Posts: 119
Location: SW Pennsylvania
Country: USA
Bikes owned: 1974 GT185
I've never used an electric/pneumatic impact on these screws. I used a hand impact driver. Pick the correct size bit, and hit the back of the driver with a hammer. Easy-peasy.

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-70006-Rever ... act+driver" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 5:07 am 
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Moto GP
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Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:32 pm
Posts: 3260
Location: southwestern Pennsylvania
Country: USA
Bikes owned: 69 T350 thru 75 GT750
Buggered up screws is pretty common. The screws on vintage Japanese bikes are JIS, which looks similar but is different to phillips. A phillips screwdriver works adequately for JIS screws that aren’t in very tight, but it will bugger up tight JIS screws like those on your engine covers.

You should get JIS screwdrivers so that you don’t have this problem in the future. I use Vessel screwdrivers, which is a Japanese brand of pro quality JIS screwdrivers. But there are cheaper alternatives.

If your case screws are not too badly buggered up, you may be able to get them out with a Vessel Impacta screwdriver. You hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer, which forces it into the screw while turning it slightly.
There are also impact drivers with bits that look like this that may work:
Image

You can use a drill to remove the heads of really badly buggered up screws. Once the cover is off, you can use pliers to remove what is left of the screw.

You should replace any of the damaged screws. You can get a complete set of replacement screws here: http://www.rimfire-eng.com/suzukistore.htm
Plated mild steel screws are the same as original. If you decide to upgrade to stainless steel screws, then make sure to use anti-seize.
The little dimple in the head of the new screws identifies them as JIS.

Some people prefer to upgrade to stainless allen screws. Kits are available, just make sure to use anti-seize.

_________________
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more

Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 project & 75
GT380 72
T500 73 project
T350 69, 71 & 72 project
T250 72
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 2:15 pm 
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Expert racer
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Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 2:55 pm
Posts: 1255
Location: Southeast England
Country: England
Bikes owned: TS100, T200, GT250, T500, GT500, GT550, GT750, GS750
I've pulled apart a lot of motors over 40 years, and can't remember not being able to get a screw out with a hand held impact driver and a club hammer.

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Keeping old 2 strokes alive !


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:54 am 
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I likes them jubblies
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:19 am
Posts: 2272
Location: OL BLIGHTY uk
Country: uk
Bikes owned: tracer 700
if your unsure still ,you can always try these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... r&_sacat=0

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If I wanted to make a life-long career out of
working with the mentally retarded I would
have opened a Harley Davidson Dealership


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 11:08 am 
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On the main road
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:53 pm
Posts: 146
Country: United States
Bikes owned: T500
johnakay wrote:
if your unsure still ,you can always try these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... r&_sacat=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You won't need stud extractors, either use the impact driver others have mentioned above or drill the screw head off then remove the stud that is left with mole grips when the case is off.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 3:36 pm 
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To the on ramp

Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
Posts: 290
Country: england
Bikes owned: several gt250 ramairs
another trick is to shock the screws. you need a long screwdriver bit, put it on the screw and hit it HARD with a heavy hammer. this sometimes does the trick, but as titan performance says, i'm the same, i've never failed to get a screw out with an impact driver. mine was about £5 and works perfectly. if the heads of your screws are knackered, then using the blunt bit [in the impact kit] is your best bet. i replace all my cover screws with stainless allen bolts, they are far better and easy to get out - but as has been said before - make sure you put a smear of copper grease on each one WITHOUT FAIL. you'll find having an impact driver in your toolbox is one of the best things you'll ever buy. oh yes, inside the casing there are more jis screws, that might not be buggered, so make sure you've got a couple of jis bits too :D
cheers, dd.

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GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 5:39 am 
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Around the block

Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2013 1:59 pm
Posts: 88
Country: United Kingdom
Bikes owned: A100 GT250 & 4t Yams!
One last comment.. you can make a passable JIS bit by filing the tip off a Phillips (PH) bit flat so that it sits better in the screw head..


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 1:15 pm 
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I likes them jubblies
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:19 am
Posts: 2272
Location: OL BLIGHTY uk
Country: uk
Bikes owned: tracer 700
someone on FaceBook had use this and found them ok.
so I bought 2.
(( Further to my comment yesterday ref exhaust to down pipe sea l I have searched my spares and have found seal box and seal and checked number on it it is a Payen nb 628 it is a crank/flywheel seal so withstands the heat and at present they are on Ebay for £10.57 but are black not blue but hey dam sight cheaper hope this helps everybody))


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 1&_sacat=0

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If I wanted to make a life-long career out of
working with the mentally retarded I would
have opened a Harley Davidson Dealership


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:37 am 
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Road race school

Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:04 pm
Posts: 829
Country: England, UK
Bikes owned: FZ50, GP100, RG125 Gamma, GT380, Bandit 1200S
dollydog wrote:
i replace all my cover screws with stainless allen bolts, they are far better and easy to get out - but as has been said before - make sure you put a smear of copper grease on each one WITHOUT FAIL.

A great idea, but if you haven't used them before, it is worth noting that they should only be tightened using a screwdriver, NOT a ratchet, t-bar or long side of an allen key. The casing threads are easily stripped if the wrong tool is used.


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