daxman wrote:I'm thinking along these lines.. Try a start up with some pre-mix once running (idling) activate the pump lever independently and wait for 'biblical' amounts of blue smoke due to the extra oil delivered. This won't though detect an individual blocked line I guess..
I've heard about a running the pimp from an electric drill (engine off) to see if it delivers too but not sure of details.
I don't know exactly what stage you are at as far as the oil lines go but you might as well purge them with CCI oil and then fill them up again with a syringe or oil squirt gun. Like so.....banjo bolt with the seal washer and a nut.....early serviceable check valve line I dug out and showed here awhile back....
OLD, TIRED WARNING TO MOST OF US BUT FOR ANY OF THOSE THAT MAY NOT HAVE COME ACROSS IT..... don't use compressed air to try and clean/clear these lines. It has to do with a small, somewhat delicate spring and a tiny steel ball that may not play well together under such pressure.
Oil not flowing through one check valve as easily as the other while using the syringe or squirt gun? Purge out what is left in the suspect one by blocking off the banjo of the good line using a regular bolt and nut along with the banjo seals and this time flush the line/check valve with kerosene, rubbing alcohol...some type of safe solvent for nylon...polyester...or whatever the lines are made of.........I would not use carb cleaner. It seems to me that may 'attack' the lines and/or any epoxy at joints. The flushing may or may not do the trick but at least the effort was given.
All seems well? Then this next step would be in order to be sure all is well.
Completely wipe the lines and all banjo ends clean and dry. Hang them with the engine check valve ends down over a clean piece of paper or the like for several hours or overnight to see if there is an offensive amount of two-stroke oil leaking by the balls in the check valves.
Try flushing again if need be.
All is well? Then you can just go ahead and hook them up to the pump and engine or if you want to watch them fill up via the engine then you might see if this would work....
Spark plugs out of course to reduce compression. Spin crank via the flywheel nut/bolt.
1/2" electric variable speed drill motor would probably allow best results.......
Keep in mind that the CCI oil does not 'flow' through the lines. Between the pump and the 'huff and puff' action of the check valve opening an closing (crankchamber pressure and vacuum at the CCI ports) the oil and any bubbles you may see will be moving in quick, short little spurts. Very tiny bubbles now and then are OK and some would say normal, even while the machine is in normal operation.
In the past(such as after an engine tear down) I have just let the running engine fill the lines. With a working pump the lines fill up very fast with the engine running faster than idle and oil pump lever held wide open. I do however squirt some two-stroke oil directly into the CCI oil ports (cylinders and outboard crank bearings oil ports) with whatever is handy, be it a syringe, squirt gun or rubber bulb beforehand.