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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:16 pm 
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Still in the Driveway
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Vancouver
Country: Canada
Bikes owned: T350 Rebel
Hi folks, wondered if I could ask a few questions as I'm trying to get my T350 running again. I just bought it and it was parked a few years ago after being ridden regularly, but I'm having a few issues and have a few questions..

What should the compression tester read on each cylinder?

The right side seems to be running ok, getting gas properly etc.

The left side is not. I tried taking the carb off, draining it and I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner though it, but the float bowl was stuck on and I didn't want to wreck the gasket forcing it off, since I don't have a replacement gasket. The carb cleaner didn't seem to unclog the needle jet though. It was running ok with the choke on but not with it off. I test rode it around the neighbourhood and it was really peppy, especially as soon as you hit the power band around 3000.

Today I was testing it out again, and now the left side is running weak and the choke isn't seeming to make a difference. I checked the plug and it's ok. I looked at the points and the gap was smaller than spec on the left side points, so I brought it up to .013. Still didn't make an improvement, so I wondered if the condenser is also weak, or the actual timing is off. I'm still getting a spark but not sure how robust.

Could the coils be a factor? How well do they age? No idea if they are still the originals or not.

Thanks to anyone replying!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:43 pm 
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To the on ramp
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Joined: Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:55 pm
Posts: 238
Location: Greendale Vic, Australia
Country: Australia
Bikes owned: AS50, GS500, GT500, ex GSXR750 slabbie
If it's actually misfiring one easy test for the coils is to swap the plug-leads over, so a different coil feeds a different cylinder,
-if it's a suss coil the misfire will go from one cylinder to the other.
Carb cleaner may not be sufficient, if the bike's been sitting around for some time you should pull the carbs off strip them and thoroughly clean them.
Your lean situation may be a blocked jet.
If you can you should clean out the exhaust system, a build-up of gunge in there won't help.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:16 pm 
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Still in the Driveway
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Vancouver
Country: Canada
Bikes owned: T350 Rebel
Thanks for taking time to reply!

Earlier today I tried just swapping the spark plug leads but I think the coils are timed, and it wouldn't start. Tomorrow I might swap the coils to see if the problem follows them.

I believe you're right about the carbs, and I'm looking for recommendations for a carb rebuilt kit, if anyone knows a good source.

The right muffler no longer has a baffle, so there's an imbalance there, too. Not sure what to do about that. Easiest thing is to remove the other baffle but the bike is designed to run with that back pressure, plus it's already pretty loud!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:13 pm 
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To the on ramp
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Joined: Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:55 pm
Posts: 238
Location: Greendale Vic, Australia
Country: Australia
Bikes owned: AS50, GS500, GT500, ex GSXR750 slabbie
No probs Lux. Loads of good advice on this forum.
I've done scores of carbs and hardly ever needed a 'kit'. It's the thorough cleaning that should do it. Maybe if the bike is flooding then you might need new float needles.
There's not much else in there that wears (unless the bike has done very high milage).

Having one muffler with baffle and one without is a recipe for disaster! (Not really, but one cylinder will be out of balance with the other and it's bound to run rough because of this).
2-strokes are much more sensitive to exhaust 'issues/imbalances' than 4-strokes. Needs to be addressed if you're going to actually use the bike.
Get a baffle, burn out the exhausts, (or chemically clean 'em), that's my 'umble opinion.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:33 am 
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Around the block
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Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:35 pm
Posts: 90
Location: Macon, GA
Country: USA
Bikes owned: 76 GT750, 72 H2 750, 84 RZ350, 67 YR1, 82 MB5
^ yes, you need to locate/ purchase/ install that missing exhaust baffle first before any other running or repairs. On the carbs, do one at a time and label a baggie. Disassemble all carb parts including all brass and buy one of those gallon carb cleaner kits that will have the small basket inside for your small parts. Don't forget to remove the Jet needle/ emulsion tube too. I like for my parts to submerge for 24-48 hours then drain off cleaner and blow out all passages with compressed air. Do not place any rubber goods in the cleaning solution. You may need a bowl gasket or two but carb kits generally are not needed as mentioned.

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1976 Suzuki GT750 (Maui Blue), 1972 Kawasaki H2 750 Mach IV (Candytone Blue), 1984 Yamaha RZ350 (KRR- Yellow/ Black), 1967 Yamaha YR1 (Red).


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 4:57 pm 
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Still in the Driveway
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Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:34 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Vancouver
Country: Canada
Bikes owned: T350 Rebel
Update - left carb cleaned out today and seems good now. It's getting gas to both pistons and it's running much smoother (all things considered) Has some pep for sure, on a quick jaunt up and down the alley. So the ignition and electrical seems like they're ok too.

I've been trying to determine that the oil pump is functioning correctly. Is there an easy test for that? I bled the intake, and oil is definitely reaching the pump. I followed instructions on bleeding the outlet tubes and thought I saw a few small bubbles pass through a couple of them, but I thought if I loosened a banjo bolt that I'd see some oil weep out and I can't seem to see that happening.

I have premixed all the gas I've put in the tank to be safe, but the oil pump goes to the bottom end too.. How risky is it to test ride short distances if the pump isn't working correctly?

Thanks again for chiming in with experience, suggestions, etc.

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