Suzuki 2 Strokes

akendall1966 wrote:When you measured the coils, this was disconnected from the rest of the wiring no plug caps? This shouldn't really effect the measurement of the secondary which if your measurement are true indicate the coils are shorted internally

Just in case your not aware if you replace the coils and do go aftermarket remember coils for CDI are different to point/tci ignition make sure you get the correct type as the primary and secondary windings are different. CDI coils will likely burn out the primary in a points system particularly, sat ignition on not running where the engine has come to rest with the points closed.

I agree.
In addition; have you checked the points gaps?

As far as I know, stock 1970 T350 does not have a kill switch. Wish it did as I could have used one a few times on mine.

your plugs should be B-77HC.if not get some,if so more than likely coils.no kill switch on these.

saying that though, l would get new points before coils with correct plugs.

I decided to hook everything back up and stick a small flat head screwdriver on the points just to see what happens. When the points close, with the screwdriver touching them, the spark plug will spark and I get a small spark at the point. It does this when I tried it with both points. This model does not have a kill switch.
Any suggestions or 's for this?

Thanks again for all the post!

Let me get that straight - when the points are CLOSED, and you touch a screwdriver to them, you get a spark at the plug?

Sounds like you've got the insulating washers in the wrong place where the low-tension wires connect to the points. This would mean that the entire breaker point assembly (both fixed and moving points) is getting 12V all the time the ignition is on, so the breakers aren't actually breaking the LT voltage when they open. You're getting a spark when you touch the points with the screwdriver because you're earthing the points.

Check the top set of points in this picture, with the green & black wires, and you'll see how they should be connected, with the insulating washer placed directly either side of the point mounting:

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/deu/systems/ ... points.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Craig380:

I attached a picture of my points and the wiring is black and white only on mine? Actually the plugs will spark anytime(Ignition On) when I have a flat head screwdriver touching them. Should I take any of this apart and clean it?

Craig could be right.
I suggest you replace the points and make sure you use new and correctly installed insulators (your current ones might be damaged). Set the gap carefully then make sure the points contacts are clean. Clean them using a clean cotton cloth only (no sand paper!). Put a small dab of grease on the points cam. With a new set of plugs too, you should find the bike will run (set the plug gap correctly and make sure that the plug leads are on the correct cylinders).

Russ, looking closely at your pic, I can only see ONE wire connected to each point. Maybe it's the picture that's playing tricks, but that's how it looks - it seems like the wiring to the points is wrong.

Each point needs to have TWO wires connected to it: the 12V low-tension feed (either the black or white wire) which hooks to the points, AND the wire from one of the condensers. Look at the pic I posted above and you'll see exactly what I mean - each set of points has the 12V low tension wire, and the wire from a condenser attached to it.

If the condensers are not connected you'll only get a weak spark at the plug at best, and usually no spark at all.

I don't know whether the black wire feeds the points for the left cylinder and the white wire the right, or vice-versa, but you can check this. Those condensers look very old too, try first wiring them in just to see if you can get it running but I would replace them. Don't forget to connect the wires so they are separated from the points by the insulating washer.

I got sparks on plugs I adjusted points but I am not sure I did it correctly. It pops and makes strange noises when trying to start.

Swap the plug leads over see if it makes any difference. Common mistake is checking plugs then putting the leads back in the wrong order (causes the exact symptoms you just mentioned). I'm not saying for sure this is your problem, but I would at least check this first.
Incidentally, setting points is simple. If you don't know the exact manufacturers setting, set them at 0.3-0.35mm gap using a feeler guage. Do this when the points are at maximum lift. Then rotate engine and do the same again on the other set.

Sportston:
Swapping the leads seems to have worked It will start for a few seconds but I have to get a fuel tank and throttle assembly. I attached a picture of what looks like oil/gas coming out of one(left) tail pipe? It did sit in the exposed elements for about 10 years.

Glad to hear it is running. Well done! Crap being blown out of the exhaust is not too surprising given the circumstances. It might be a good idea to remove the baffles and give them a good clean. If they have a lot of oily carbon deposits on it, I would suggest burning them off with a blow lamp, then give it a whack or two to make the burnt carbon drop off.

Thanks sportston! I hope it will run correctly once I get the fuel tank.

Thanks to all post... they really helped. I will keep posting.

You're welcome, but don't be too surprised if it needs a little fettling after being stood for so long. I am sure you'll be ring-dinging it soon!