Clutch Rattle

[Alan H]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Clutch-H ... YCapIC_5Ng" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or if you have some spare clutch plates (on of each type), just make one.

[dollydog]

piece of thick, hard rubber between the clutch and crank gears will hold it fine. it can only go so tight then it bottoms out - so when it's tight, it's tight. bend the tab washer over, etc, and put the cover back on. and a word of advice from somebody who has forgotten it [me], put the drainplug in before the 1300cc of oil it's so annoying having fresh oil all over the floor
cheers, dd.

[Zunspec4]

Hi grumpy,

Yes, you can loosen it using a rattle gun. Best done with plates installed. I use a wedge of aluminium plate as a jam between the primary gears to lock the clutch drum. You can also use one of those special clutch locking tools. Recommend doing it up using a torque wrench though.

Cheers Geoff

[grumpy56]

....the saga continues....the 27mm clutch nut was not tight at all...thought BINGO...problem solved...but not so fast aristotle.....that nut seems to go from loose to tight with not much distance between the two (although I have not yet tried to clamp down on it)....had what I think is too much clearance between the outer hub and the inner hub, so ground a few thousandths off the spacer....but when I put it all back together, I still have "play" in the outer clutch hub...seems like too much to me, but I don't know what it is supposed to be...intuitively, I would think there would be none, but need your guidance as to how much is too much...thanks

[dollydog]

any play at all is too much - you haven't tightened the nut fully. chock it and give it some elbow grease. ps, before that, read my post about the 2 thrust washers - did you check?
cheers, dd.

[grumpy56]

Yes, have the two thrust washers on there. I ordered one of those spanners to ensure I tighten that center nut tight enough. Anyone know what the torque value is on that thing? Also the torque/tightening sequence on the case screws? I may also have to grind down that spacer if I still have play in the basket. On a distantly related note, I have a 2006 HD Superglide and it is starting to make the same noise as this T350 in neutral with the clutch disengaged. Second time on that beast and I only have 14K easy miles on it. I had to replace an inner primary bearing at 4400 miles and it sounds like it is going again. 2006 was the only year with the 88cu motor and a 6 speed tranny. What a rip as HD knew there was going to be an issue as they said, initially when the 2006 models came out, to "replace the bearing at 15K miles". Say what???? Then rescinded that position after a few months. I tried to get them to warranty my first failure, but they wouldn't budge since the 2 year warranty period had expired. Anyway, sorry to bore you boys with Milwaukee issues.....

[sportston]

Sell the Harley and spend the money on a Suzuki? Go on, you know you want to!
VL1500 looks like a Harley but it has the refinement of a Suzie....

[dollydog]

hi grumpy, torque setting for the clutch centre nut is 23.9 ft/lbs.
while you're at it, check the backlash on the crank/clutch gears, there's full instructions on how to do it in the clymer book of the suzuki twins - and a lot more good info
cheers, dd.

[grumpy56]

Appreciate the info and that might be good advice about ditching the Harley!!! Did notice one other thing.....have a bit of play, a couple of thousandths I reckon, in what I guess would be called the counter shaft that the clutch rides on. I would have thought that there would no noticeable play in that shaft. Now when I fool around with the Harleys, that's to be expected!!!

[lewis1956]

Hello All. This is Grumpy56 under a new name. Could not log in under that handle, so had to create a new one. Anyway, on the T350 clutch rattle.....Did have too much play in the clutch so ground down the bushing (hopefully not too much). Started putting it back together and noticed that the first fibre plate was cracked, so finally got a new one and buttoned it up. Awaiting an exhaust gasket, so have not tried it yet. However, do have an oil leak out of the that side case. Cleaned it real good (no gashes) and used a new gasket, but it is leaking. Anyone have any stop leak magic? I put it on dry and will make sure the clutch is OK before I rip the cover off to fix the leak.

[sportston]

Perhaps try Threeebond TB1184 to stop leak on gasket surfaces?
One friend of mine recommends the use of waterpump grease (really thick stuff) on both sides of the gasket! Never tried it myself but he swears by it.

[jabcb]

Permatex has two gasket sealers that you spray on the gasket.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gaske ... mp-sealant/
with recommended motorcycle uses: Cylinder head gaskets, carburetor gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and
other high temperature applications

https://www.permatex.com/products/gaske ... t-sealant/
with recommended motorcycle uses: Clutch release cover, cylinder head gaskets

see video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCoAeK667Z4

[Suzukidave]

I also like using grease on both sides of my gaskets , makes them easier to remove later too . 3 bond on case halves and where pressure may be on the gasket like the water pump cover .

[dollydog]

i always use welseal on the clutch side and 3 bond on the crankcases.
only downside to the welseal is to do it properly you have to coat both ali faces and both gasket faces, which is very time consuming and messy - but worth it though
cheers, dd.

[sportston]

i always use welseal on the clutch side and 3 bond on the crankcases.
only downside to the welseal is to do it properly you have to coat both ali faces and both gasket faces, which is very time consuming and messy - but worth it though
cheers, dd.

Using Wellseal you won't be able to reuse the gasket. Also it is a bugger to remove the gasket later. But it will work well. and you are unlikely to get leaks if you prepped the surfaces well.