Suzuki 2 Strokes

Looking to eliminate the SRIS on a 72 triple in a way that allows me to reinstate the SRIS at some point down the road.
What's typically done?

Well, the SRIS is fine on both mine, so just block the pipes both ends on yours.

How do you take the sris fittings from the bottom of the crank area apart allowing reassembly. I goofed up something and need to pull them out to make sure none of said good up is floating around clogging up the nozzles. Do the bikes run better with out the sump lines connected? At this point my bike is very oil rich so I don't know if it's a great idea to eliminate them.

If it's oil rich, use better (semi synthetic) 2 stroke oil, and set the pump correctly.
SRIS works, leave it alone. You're trying to mend something that isn't broken.
Another reason that your engine may be 'over oiled' is that you aren't riding it long enough, far enough or fast enough.
Two strokes don't like slow.
Oh, and if you remove the sump lines and don't plug the holes (and spigots next to the inlets at the rear of the barrels), oil will run out and puddle on the floor, the bike may not start, but if it does will run very weak and seize.

Alan H wrote:If it's oil rich, use better (semi synthetic) 2 stroke oil, and set the pump correctly.
SRIS works, leave it alone. You're trying to mend something that isn't broken.
Another reason that your engine may be 'over oiled' is that you aren't riding it long enough, far enough or fast enough.
Two strokes don't like slow.
Oh, and if you remove the sump lines and don't plug the holes (and spigots next to the inlets at the rear of the barrels), oil will run out and puddle on the floor, the bike may not start, but if it does will run very weak and seize.

I am using Castrol Power RS TTS fully synth, the pump is set as per the Clymer manual. I will leave a working system alone but my problem is this; I used snazzy silicone lined hose with a smaller silicone lined hose that mimicked the stock rock hard carb to head isolators very well. Sadly my one cylinder not firing well caused the silicone to come apart and I assume into the under crank area of the left cylinder. That is why I want to take off the oil fitting to hopefully flush any bits out before it clogs the sris pick up. As for riding it long enough...it has 2.6 miles since being revived. I just finished building it but have one cylinder consistently not firing more than 50% of the time and a huge dead spot above 25% throttle opening and 4K RPM.

http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Look for the year - bike - crankcase. Bottom left for details.

Just take the pipe off and unscrew it. There may be an internal filter, but it's not necessary and wasn't fitted to the later models. But it's a small hole and I doubt if a piece of pipe will go through it. just run the bike, I can't see a bit of silicone doing any harm. Even if it gets shifted into the combustion chamber, it's hardly likely to hurt anything.
Fit a set of hotter plugs until the engine runs cleanly. I would suggest that there may be blocked carb jet issues stopping it running. It only takes a small piece of crap to block a tiny hole. Trust me on that one, and fit inline filters between tank and carb(s) so you don't have to do it time after time.

One of my check valves is sticking closed at times and then sticking open. Can't figure that out??? Any down side to plugging the ports top and bottom and not using them. Parts fiche shows them as obsolete, anyone have extra valves for the lower sump?

I got a new set of 3 a few months back, either from ebay as nos or bikebandit.com. Can't remember w b ich place those came from.

hahahaurugly wrote:One of my check valves is sticking closed at times and then sticking open. Can't figure that out??? Any down side to plugging the ports top and bottom and not using them. Parts fiche shows them as obsolete, anyone have extra valves for the lower sump?

Strip, clean and rebuild them.