indies above 2K

[akendall1966]

Did you check for short circuits to the engine case, i.e. resistance between R/G or Y/G to the engine case.

There is more diagnostic advice from jabcb here to follow:
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=6566

While you have the the alternator unplugged follow his diagnostic for checking the A/C out of the alternator.

For the reg/rec you could reconnect the alternator then disconnect the red and the black wire, connect to a headlamp bulb as a temporary load and check the voltage between the red and black wires with the engine running. I would expect voltage to be ~14.2 DC regardless of revs perhaps less at tick-over if the AC out of the alternator is too low for the reg/rec to produce full output voltage. As revs rise voltage should rise to 14.something volts a stay there continuing to rise or become unstable.

over voltage on the DC side as you said will likely reduce battery and bulb life. But a failed reg/rec and a fried battery would leave you stuck on the roadside awaiting rescue which could be a pain depending on your use.

AK

[billy192]

I followed this test below see red figures

Does the alternator output problem occur when you have (1) the lights switched off, and (2) the lights switched on? same

Wiring diagram is here: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=4743" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Alternator spec s are on page 15 of: http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/suzidata1.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The T500 alternator has 3 wires: Y/G, R/G & G/W
stator Y/G connects to rectifier Y/G
stator R/G connects to rectifier R/G (for charging coil)
stator G/W goes to light switch, switches to R/G, light switch R/G connects to rectifier R/G (for lighting coil)

To check stator resistance:
Unplug the alternator connectors from the rectifier & wiring harness.
Then:
1) check resistance between G/W & Y/G wires, should be near zero ohm
2) check resistance between R/G & Y/G wires, should be near zero ohm
3) check resistance between one of the wires & ground, should be open circuit

The resistance reading you get is the wiring resistance plus your meter's internal resistance. Touch the meter leads together to get the meter's internal resistance.

To check stator output:
Unplug the alternator connectors from the rectifier & wiring harness.
Set multimeter to 100V AC.
Then perform these test with engine running:
1) check voltage between G/W & Y/G wires, should get something like 40V depending on rpm 28V at tick over and 55V at 5k rpm
2) check voltage between R/G & Y/G wires, should get something like 40V depending on rpm 15.5V at tick over and same 15.5V at 5k rpm

_________________
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - have too many bikes but still have room for one more

Suzukis:
1975 GT750, GT750, GT550 & T500
1974 T500
1971 T350
1969 T350
Honda: 1985 CB650SC & 1986 CB700SC
Yamaha: 1975 XS650
2009 Triumph Bonneville SE

[akendall1966]

Looks like a bad stator coil. Have it checked and rewound if required.

[billy192]

well tidied up the wiring on the old Reg and rectifier and put all back to STD





and boom rev to 5k with lights 14.4 without lights 14.2 indies work with lights off and with them on.

must have a faulty all in one



thanks for all the ideas
Billy

[akendall1966]

Good news you got the problem nailed down.