Suzuki 2 Strokes

I did my Intro down in general, but just to recap, I'm a retired 65 year old from Downeast Maine, been riding off and on since the late 60's, and done 99% of my own wrench turning since Day One.

My main ride is a 1979 Yamaha XS650 Special which I bought 4 years ago and tore down and reconditioned.

This winter's project, as the title indicates, is a 1974 Suzuki GT550 which I just picked up this evening.

As I go through the process of tearing it down to the bare frame, reconditioning where needed and reassembling (notice I did NOT say "restoring", I ain't got that kind of money) I'll post the odd picture and I'm sure many questions in this thread.

So, to start, two questions:

1. How well does this bike react to pod-type air filters? The airbox is missing a couple of parts and the filter elements that ARE there are junk.

2. I haven't evaluated things at all yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if I'll be in the market for a new or reproduction wiring harness. Do we know anybody that does that for the GT's?

PHPaul wrote:
1. How well does this bike react to pod-type air filters? The airbox is missing a couple of parts and the filter elements that ARE there are junk.

2. I haven't evaluated things at all yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if I'll be in the market for a new or reproduction wiring harness. Do we know anybody that does that for the GT's?

1. They run better with standard and you don't have to fart about with jetting.
2. They are like rocking horse crap. They surface rarely and cost as much as the GDP of Texas.
However, they can always be repaired.

On the good side, the bike looks well except for the handlebars. I take it you have normal length arms?
Tank badges are on ebay regularly and tatty ones can be smartened up easily.

Okay, first status report.

1. The wiring harness has been molested by some toothless, mouth-breathing, booger-eating, banjo-picking moron with a pair of dykes and 3 rolls of Walmart 'lectrical tape. Wire nuts used for connections, some connections just twisted and taped, some twisted and NOT taped, and about 3 feet of #14 orange extension cord spliced in in one spot. That's going to be something of a challenge, but just tedious, not expensive or complex.



2. I'm assuming it was the same moron that hacked the entire right side off the battery box, so I'll be looking for a replacement.



3. Ditto the RTV/Silicone on the fuel line and under the petcock on the tank. When I took the petcock off, there was a huge blue booger of silicone floating around over the inlet. BTW, tank looks okay, some light rust but I think a good soak in vinegar and coating it in oil while in storage will fix that. I will need a petcock kit.





4. The progenitor of this bit of wizardry is a little less clear. The stud sticking up out of the transmission case just forward of the oil pump was rubbing on the float bowl of the right hand carb. Doesn't appear to have worn through and I'm hoping a good cleaning and a little fuel-resistant JB weld will fix that. Anybody know if that stud is supposed to be there, or be that long?



5. Interestingly, the throttle arm (or whatever it's proper name is) for the same carb is cracked. I'll be looking for one of those as well.

6. The "air cleaner" consisted of two pieces of waffle foam stuffed into the airbox. The airbox itself appears to have been hacked on a little but I forgot to take a picture of that. Next post.

So, so far no huge issues, but a lot of dumbass mechanic hacking.

Also, I hadn't really paid attention to the bars.

You're right, they'll be among the first things to go. Ewwwwwwwwww!

(Very) Preliminary thinking is a basically stock bike with cafe'-ish accents. Pretty sure the turn signals and tail/brake light will be on the spare parts pile quickly. DANG, they're ugly...

The stud by the oil pump should be a bolt. The nearby points wire goes under that tang clamp. New carburetor 'arms' are still available from Suzuki at approx.$35 each. Never try to flex those to ease shaft removal. They are pot metal and will break every time at the key way.
I have a spare battery box and tool box. Both have rust and need some TLC. Yours for shipping. PM me with email address if interested and I'll send you pics.

Turn signals and brake lights are original and expensive. Don't throw them if they are any good as someone will buy them for a full resto job spares.
Personally I like the back light, the early ones had two bulbs and the later ones a single central bulb. The last ones (B model) had the same 'square' back light as the (then) new GS750.
On the A model (Earwig) I've fitted a couple of LED rings inside the rear reflector for more chance that a following motorist will actually see them.
If you keep the back mudguard, the rear light unit fits and all the holes are useful, but if you use a different 'guard, then that bit of advice can be ignored!That bit of spring on the oil pump cable seems to be holding the cable for some reason, the cable looks pissed (drunk) so check that the cable end is secure on the oil pump arm, and that it can return to the minimum position. That cable looks badly adjusted - too tight and will deliver too much oil.
Worst case with the harness is to use solder and heat shrink. Best case is to replace the wires. Instead of using the multiblock connectors, you can always use singles. It looks like you'll not be bored this winter!
It took me 3 years to do my first 550 resto, but I also bought lots of spares in that time and another 4 550s - to resto as well, hence 'earwig-o-again..........

Turn signals and brake lights are original and expensive. Don't throw them if they are any good as someone will buy them for a full resto job spares.

Oh, for sure. I'm 99% positive I'll use something else, but EVERYTHING that came off the bike will go on the shelf until it's back on the road. Once I'm sure I like what I've got, I'll offer any original bits here.

Coyote, PM inbound!

Hack job on the air box.



Engine out and hanging off the engine stand.

Question: I'm seeing stainless socket head (allen) bolt kits for the GT550 like this sample

I'd sure like to replace the buggered up Phillips head screws, has anybody bought this or something similar?

That's all I ever use. The OEM magcheesalloy screws really suck. I always get mine off of eBay. Will get some pics to you in the morning.

I've got button head stainless screws in the K, and cap heads stainless on the earwig.
If you use stainless in alloy threads, don't forget the copper grease or the buggers won't come back out next year!

Rimfire sells model-specific screw kits in mild steel & stainless.
http://www.rimfire-eng.com/suzukistore.htm

Its definitely worth getting JIS screwdrivers if you don’t have them.
The reason these screws typically got buggered up so badly is that they are JIS.
JIS is similar to phillips but just different enough to be easily damaged with phillips screwdrivers.

jabcb wrote:
Its definitely worth getting JIS screwdrivers if you don’t have them.
The reason these screws typically got buggered up so badly is that they are JIS.
JIS is similar to phillips but just different enough to be easily damaged with phillips screwdrivers.

Absolutely. A good impact screwdriver is important as well. I learned that lesson the hard way MANY years ago.

While we're on the subject of tools, another critical requirement is GOOD, well-fitting flat blade screwdrivers for carburetor work. I like gunsmithing screwdrivers with hollow-ground bits. Not cheap, but cheaper than boogering up a jet trying to get it out!

Two of my last three jobs before retiring were working as a mechanic at an equipment rental place, and working as a millwright in a cannery. Gave me a good excuse to indulge my tool junkie habit.

I still run into the odd occasion when I don't have the proper tool for the job, but that rarely lasts longer than it takes for an Amazon.com order or a quick run to town...

Bit more disassembly today, snuck in between "Make Mama Happy" trips and projects .

Got the wheels off, forks pulled out and triple tree disassembled. Both upper and lower bearing races are toast, so I'll be ordering a set of tapered bearings from All Balls. Probably go ahead and get the wheel bearings from them while I'm at it, I'm sure the ones in the wheels are the originals.

So, all that's left is to pull the swingarm and check the bushings and tear the forks down.

Then all the cleaning, polishing and reassembly can begin.

Whee.

(I hate polishing...)