Suzuki 2 Strokes

It kept leaking after my one and only long ride. So I gave it a bit of English and snap. Not sure it's fixable.

Any advice would be helpful.

more pics.

I assume part of the screw is still in the hole. If the break is jagged and you can get it dry, a pencil eraser may just back it out. If that doesn't work, grind the point of a nail flat. Put a drop of super glue on the flat and stick it on the broken off piece in the hole. Again, it will have to be clean and dry.

To me, it looks like he broke off some of the right side cover. If so, a new cover would be best. Lots of them around, cost not too bad, as long as you're not looking for a show polished one.

More importantly -- How did you get photos to attach? I thought the server was out of space a long time ago.

Photos are shrunk to 66kb.

The bolt is fine it's the housing bottom throttle side. I'm thinking of a brass plug? I am not concerned about draining the oil later I only ride twice a year.

Obviously I know nothing about a T500. I thought we were talking about a fork leg. DUH

The bolt isn't for draining the transmission oil. It was originally designed to allow oil to come out, once the crankcase was filled with 1200cc of oil. They never changed it after they updated the crankcase, as on your 1974, to 1400cc capacity.

It was probably already cracked - that's would explain why it was leaking in the first place. May have already had a patch job, and the torque you put on the bolt did it no good.

Replacing the cover if the correct way to go. Leaking transmission oil isn't good for the transmission, or anything else.

It's the drain bolt on the bottom of the engine.

Sorry. From the posted pictures, I had no idea that was the lower crankcase half.

the only thing I can think of is machining away the remaining stub and using a shortened plug with a sealing washer. Is there any thread left in the hole?

If there is thread left and it's done carefully you should be able to do it without splitting the cases, but the motor will probably have to come out of the frame

If access in frame is acceptable, then a dremel may be your friend. As suggested, machine away to level and use a sealing washer in fibre and not too tight a bolt. It may be possible to get it almost flat (but no polished) then adhere a flat washer (slightly scored on the side to face the case) to the case with chemical metal to create a planar face for the bolt/washer to seat well upon.
Plug the hole with paper / shop towel first.
I don't have a 500 so no idea is this is possible.
Its what I'd be thinking, if the case metal is sufficiently thick and the remaining drain hole thread count is enough.
If not, it may be engine out
Good luck and please keep us posted.
Cheers,
Mike

Quite a few years ago someone at work had a stripped out car engine drain plug.
He used some aftermarket plug that worked fine.

Google something like "stripped motor drain plug" & you may find something useful.
An example of what I found:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO96G8/ref ... n-plugs%2F

I used the above. I had to trim it to work but it fit and sealed. I safety wired it.

I did do grinding to flatten and make a nice sealing surface. I tried half heartedly to screw in the old drain bolt but no real effort. No leaks as before.


Fixed stupid.

Happened across this recently…
Another option that might work if you have a leak & still can use a bolt. (Obviously not this case.)

SMART-O self-sealing engine drain plugs.


The R1 plug is M12x1.25 x 12mm long
The R5 plug is M12x1.5 x 12mm long

http://www.smartoplug.com/products/oil-drain-plugs
They are available via Amazon & eBay.
I've seen them on display in a local store -- not sure which one but it might be Walmart.

The original T500 drain plug is M12 x 12 mm long.
That part # has been superseded & the currently available T500 plug is 12mm x 10mm long.
Parts diagrams don't list the threads so I don't know which one will fit.