idiots guide to timing

[Repeater]

Really I need it. SO I have a dial indicator and the manual. I just seem to be having issues.


How do I do it with the marks on the stater and the dial indicator with a multimeter?

[Craig380]

Here you go, this is for setting timing on a triple but the same rules apply:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6342&p=118284

The golden rules are, set the points gap first, and always check the timing in the direction the engine runs, to take up all the slack in the system.

[Coyote]

Thanks for finding that Craig. Saved me from having to do it all over again.

[Repeater]

I'm trying to find a base with the marks. Is it the L or the line by the L for the timing marks when the points are supposed to open. I seem to be chasing my tail here. I did this last year and seem to have gone stupid. So front points (closer to headlight) for left cylinder (clutch side).

If I'm using a DVM. I put a lead on the arm of the point and one to a good ground. At tdc until .134" it should be short? Moving in the clockwise direction? I seem to be open the closed.

I set the gap at .14 on the max opening.

[tricky1962]

Line up the points opening with the line, not the L

I use a strobe gun and adjust the timing with the engine running - it is a two minute job that way, rather than nudging the engine round until the points open which seems too fiddly to me

[tz375]

The problem with that approach is that on many bikes the lines on that little propeller are not where they need to be. That is usually because the drive pin is smaller than the slot in the "propeller" and that slack is what allows it to end up in the wrong place. That's why many of us insist on using a dial gauge.

If the marks are correct, then by all means use a strobe (timing) light.

The key to timing is to first set the points fully open to the correct gap. Ignore when things happen for that step. Just get the gap right at maximum opening. Then check to see when they start to crack open.

[Coyote]

I use the dial indicator to see if the propeller marks are correct at the specified BTDC. So far I've been lucky and they have been spot on. So I set the indicator aside and just go by the marks.

[ConnerVT]

The problem with that approach is that on many bikes the lines on that little propeller are not where they need to be. That is usually because the drive pin is smaller than the slot in the "propeller" and that slack is what allows it to end up in the wrong place. That's why many of us insist on using a dial gauge.

I'm not sure what you mean by "Little propeller". That may be applicable on the triples, but not the twins.

The L and R marks are on the rotor, which is keyed and mounts directly to the crankshaft. There really isn't much rotational play when assembling that.

The other mark is on the stator assy. Maybe a little more rotational play when mounting, but certainly <= 1 degree.

The third factor is any rotational play in the cam, which the points ride. Again, very little rotational play in that.

The biggest issue I have come across when timing is determining when the points are "officially" open. For there is a time during the rotation when the points are barely touching. A test light may begin to glow, depending on its internal resistance. A VOM is showing a resistance of a few hundred or thousand ohms. Is this open? Or is it still enough resistance that the coil's primary field is still energized, and not ready to generate a spark?

Unless the crank (or charging system) has some real issues, the timing marks are likely close enough for government (street) work. Especially if you take the time to install the above parts without forcing them one way or anopther.

I find that after I set the timing mechanically with the marks, I still need to fine tune it by checking with a timing light. The timing light is indicating when the spark is taking place (virtually right after the points open, and the field collapses in the coil).

[tz375]

Good point JACB. I automatically think triples and forget sometimes that the twins are a whole other ball of wax.

[Repeater]

OK I had it ass backwards! I was doing it right with the Dial indicator, but I had no spark so I kept trying different things. I got all confused.

I went on a trip months ago and when I got back I started to change stuff. Tires Brakes.............Condensers! 6 months later I go to redo timing. again and agian with no spark. I only get 30 min here or there to work on the bike. I have a 1 year old. I put the old condensers back in do the timing per the manual. spark spark spark!

Fak me I work on some really expensive gear for work felt like amateur hour for me. I mean expensive gear that see your innards and stuff.

Thank you very much for the responses.

I'll be setting the floats next! get ready I've never done that!

[yeadon_m]

Good result!
On float height, be careful what the method is. I don't know with your carbs. For some of these, its to tilt the carb at an angle, such that the float 'tang' is just touching the pin on the valve, rather than fully inverting the carb before measuring (if you fully invert, it can compress the spring inside the valve - if you set like this, the fuel shuts off too early and you end up with too small a fuel height = lean....I think). Also, whether the measure is to the carb body without the gasket (usually so).
I use a tilt / just-touching method for my GT triple carbs' float height kinda guy
Mike

[ConnerVT]

Correct on adjusting the carbs. No bowl gasket installed when measuring. Only tilt the carb as much as needed to have float resting on float needle (the weight of the float can compress the spring in the float needle, resulting in an inaccurate measurement).