Suzuki 2 Strokes

Timing my 73 GT750. Put a circuit tester on the points so I would know when they are opening. The light is always on for the Left and Center points. The points for the RIGHT is the only one that the light will go off and on as the points open and close. Any suggestions on where the problem is. Thanks //Pat

Check the other end of the points wires and make sure they are no grounded . That happened to me as I had the pigtail apart and the points wires drifted anb grounded to the frame. Drove me nuts till I found it. Same deal. Light on 360

Also, have had that problem. Drove me nuts trying to figure out why. My light would not change on the set of left points only. Regardless, of it being open or not. Many trials later, I found that the retainer that holds the cam felt was grounding to that one set of points behind the felt. I failed to find the problem initially. Because, that retainer was hidden behind the felt. It wasn't making contact with that set of points. But, it was so very close that it was causing that set of points to ground to that piece of metal. Once, I bent that retainer out of the way a fuzz. Never had the problem again. I believe, you may have a similar problem. Something is grounded to that set of points. Making the light read that the point is always closed. Not, allowing a break in the points to register on the light.

Try cleaning the contacts on the points first and check the gap. If your test light stays on then the points are not closing or there is a poor contact.

If your test light stays on then the points are not closing or there is a poor contact.

I don't what kind test light he has, but on mine if the test light stays on means the points are not opening. Light goes out when the points open -- breaking the circuit.

I agree with the above couple replies (cliff Coyote) if.

When the light is on means the points are open. That is you have a 12 Volt light bulb tester + and - lead literal and I mean exactly right accross the points (best way to do it). Correct?

If so and the light is always on, the points and not making a good contact when closed. Make sense?

My lite is a converted flashlight. Black wire soldered to the bottom spring and red wire soldered to the bulb socket.. Alligator clips on both. Touch wires together , lamp lights. Clip black wire on any ground (I use the hole for the cover screw) and the red clips to the moving point. Light is on. when the points open, the circuit is broken and the light goes out. NO IGNITION! As a matter of fact, no battery required either. Works whether the battery is in the bike or on your neighbor's porch. Total cost around $2.00

Whit - Are you sure that you have the wires to the points connected correctly? You wouldn't be the first person that had the insulators in the wrong place.

See this thread/post for a picture: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5785&p=114431&#p114431

I took the whole points pieceassembly off and re-installed. Now the problem has gone away. I think I have a much serious problem now. I did static timing and everything looks good. I stuck a straw in the Left cylinder to see where the piston is when the points open. Now the bad news, points are opening as the piston is going down. Since I just did a complete rebuild of the engine I am wondering if I have made one hell of a mistake somewhere. Checked right and center cylinder and they all are the same. Seems to me everything is way out of whack. //Pat

I'm certain that is caused by a sheared or missing key. Problem is I don't know which one. That's the only way it can get that far out. Some of the 750 guys will know and help you. So relax ---- no big mistake on assembly. Seems like about a year or so ago someone had the same issue. It was key sheared. Getting old and the grey matter is melting.

Thanks .... I was about to jump in the river three times and was only planning on coming up twice. If it is only a sheared pin then I will be one happy guy. Just posted another thread to separate from this one. Thanks you have made me feel a whole lot better. //Pat