Suzuki 2 Strokes

I introduced mysel a few weeks back after just purchased a GT185 , I have started to strip It down but wanted to see if the engine would start before completely dismantling it
I cleaned the carbs put fresh engine oil and 2 stroke and new battery ,set up a dummy fuel tank
The big moment it would not start and was very slow to turn over,got good vacuum on the carbs
Removed the left spark plug ,hit the starter and got a good spark ,while it was cranking the right cylinder fired up ,as it was running large amounts of oil blew out of the left cyl ,so I put the plug back in and it fired up on bothe cylinders but with a lot of smoke out of the exhausts
Any thoughts piston ,rings or both
Also the clutch lever under the engine just pulled back and forward with no resistance you can hear something moving inside the engine , appreciate any feedback

Where to start, well, first off not sure about others on here with a GT185 but my electric start never worked exceptionly well and I usually just use the kick lever. I suggest that you purchase one. As for the engine, before starting again I would do a compression test and post the results here. The excess oil may be just from sitting. Lastly the clutch, hopefully it is just out of adjustment. You can find out how to do that here...

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Thanks to fellow member Ian (oldjapanesebikes) for posting this on his website.

Keep us up to date on your progress!

Leaky oil pump lines check valves. Is there much oil in the tank?
I suspect there was lots in the crankcase. You're luck you didn't bend a rod.
Easy to sort.

Alan H where do I find these elusive valves and how do you fix them

Flywheel
I have virtually finished stripping the bike down ,so will need a kick strarter to turn it over for the compression test, does anybody have spare or will a gt125/ gt 250 one fit

Kick starter from a GT125 might fit but that model was never imported to the U.S. GT 250 is left side kick so that one won't work. You may want to get a shaft size dimension and try to match it up with something. Maybe a GT380, GT550? or possibly TC125/TS185/TS250. Run a wanted ad in the classifieds.

As for the check valves they're on the end of the oil lines right before they attach to the cylinders (look below the carb boots). I'll let Alan explain how to fix them as I'm not 100% sure myself. I do know they tend to leak if sitting for extended periods of time.

Flywheel is correct.
Have a look at the oil pipes that go to the crankcases just under the carb to barrel rubbers.
The end of the pipe will be a small banjo shaped brass fitting and secured to the cases with a 10mm head size stud IICC.
Don't be tempted to fit an ordinary bolt when you rebuild as the proper one has a hole all the way through it.

How to test?
Remove the oil pump and underneath there is a round fitting with the oil pipes on. Hang all the lot up, banjo end down and see if any oil leaks out. You can get replacements, or strip (carefully!) the originals and clean the inside where the ball and spring live. make sure they go together the right way otherwise the oil can't get through.
lock.
If only a drop or two gets through in about 48 hours or so, it won't do any harm. If it drips steadily, it needs sorting as it will build up in the cases and can cause a hydraulic

Thanks guys for the info ,from you are saying Alan H they may be leaking because when I drained the engine oil it was red in color like 2 stroke oil

A word of warning on the oil lines. NO COMPRESSED AIR! It will destroy the valves by over compressing the tiny springs.

What would be the best thing to clean with , WD40 , kerosene also do you spray them or immersion

Immersing them is pointless. Get a cheap oil can (pump type) and a bottle of plain old rubbing alcohol. Pump the alcohol through the lines from the fitting under the pump toward the banjo ends. Alcohol should flow freely from that end, but not in the other direction. The best for that is to buy a nut and washer. Put a banjo bolt through the fitting with a sealing washer on each side and the nut. Tighten. Then try to pump alcohol through the hoile in the banjo bolt. It should NOT flow in that direction. If it does, the valve is stuck open. Keep flowing alcohol through from the pump end till you can't pump any through from the banjo end. Lastly, pump the lines full of 2-stroke oil and reassemble.
The valves are a simple check type. All that's in them is a ball, spring and a seat for the ball. When the motor runs, oil from the pump forces the ball off the seat and oil flows. When you kill the motor, the spring in the valve forces the ball on the seat and the oil flow stops. If the valve(s) are stuck open, simple gravity will slowly fill the crankcase with oil. If you run the bike frequently and the seepage is slight, you will be OK. If you are putting the bike up for a while, make a mark on the oil tank with a Sharpie. When you return or dig the bike out for the season, check your mark. If there is a noticeable drop in the level, open the crankcase drain bolts. I don't know your motor so I don't know it it has drains. On motors that don't have drains, removing the SRIS valves is your drain.

Thanks Coyote , I will add this to my growing list of jobs ,got new O rings coming for the assembly

Coyote wrote:Immersing them is pointless. Get a cheap oil can (pump type) and a bottle of plain old rubbing alcohol. Pump the alcohol through the lines from the fitting under the pump toward the banjo ends. Alcohol should flow freely from that end, but not in the other direction. The best for that is to buy a nut and washer. Put a banjo bolt through the fitting with a sealing washer on each side and the nut. Tighten. Then try to pump alcohol through the hoile in the banjo bolt. It should NOT flow in that direction. If it does, the valve is stuck open. Keep flowing alcohol through from the pump end till you can't pump any through from the banjo end. Lastly, pump the lines full of 2-stroke oil and reassemble.
The valves are a simple check type. All that's in them is a ball, spring and a seat for the ball. When the motor runs, oil from the pump forces the ball off the seat and oil flows. When you kill the motor, the spring in the valve forces the ball on the seat and the oil flow stops. If the valve(s) are stuck open, simple gravity will slowly fill the crankcase with oil. If you run the bike frequently and the seepage is slight, you will be OK. If you are putting the bike up for a while, make a mark on the oil tank with a Sharpie. When you return or dig the bike out for the season, check your mark. If there is a noticeable drop in the level, open the crankcase drain bolts. I don't know your motor so I don't know it it has drains. On motors that don't have drains, removing the SRIS valves is your drain.

Checked the oil lines and everything looks good I have had the lines hanging with 2 stroke oil them and there in dripping from the banjo
Now for the clutch ,I manged to to turn the cam and the push rod moves in and out ,but I have to have the pressure plate adjuster screwed all the way in with no room to put the lock nut on to get the plates to disengage
I tried to remove the push rod with no joy not sure what I need to do to remove it
Frame is off the powder coaters ,and slowly gathering everything together for the slow rebuild , when I am sure the clutch is good , or the money will have to be spent on getting that worked out
Stay tuned

Please please ,somebody must have a 185 that they have done some work on ,Do not let me get on my kness and plead

Best thing is to pull the right side engine cover off. Remove the entire clutch assembly so you can take all the plates off for n inspection. Check a parts diagram to see what is used to operate the clutch; two rods and a ball bearing inbetween is a Suzuki common design, but I am not sure with the the 185. If your going to do this restore right, don't leave anything untouched. It WILL bite you later. The 185 is a fun, reliable bike. The investment will pay off in smiles rather than greenbacks down the road!

I agree with rbond, you're just going to have to dig in there and see what's wrong. The clutch is a simple mechanical assembly that shouldn't be too hard to find out what's wrong. Keep us posted!