Patch Job

[Coyote]

It might be a wasted exercise, but I am going to try to patch this with some .015 aluminum sheet, JB weld and a few pop rivets. Not sure if high temp RTV might be a better choice. The hole is very near the end of the pipe. You can see it tapering off to the cone on the extreme left. It's the left side outer pipe. Too many years in the weather on the side stand. The other 3 pipes LOOK OK, but I haven't shaken them about to see if the baffle plates are shot. All 4 baffles are in place. I haven't tried to pull any of them yet.
I am open for ideas. I fear the metal is paper thin in the area that needs patching. Hole is on the inner side and can't be seen when mounted. Looking at the photo, I wonder why I don't see the baffle

[yeadon_m]

Wow that pipe is grim. If its for the hell of it and isn't costing you more than time, go ahead. But I'd guess it'll come apart internally once you give the bike the beans a few times and it all gets hot.
Good luck!
Mike

[pearljam724]

Not worth the hassle, nor scrap money from my point of view. When you can buy one off Ebay for 50-100 bucks that looks much better and is more sound. I'd bite the bullet. Some things, just aren't worth the time or money to try to restore. Especially, when better options are available. I think this is listed incorrectly though. Should be a left inner. Where I believe you need a left outer or upper. I can vouch for this seller. Good guy to work with and fairly good quality used parts. I got a headlight bucket from him in fantastic condition for a very reasonable price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970s-Suzuki-GT ... 57&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Coyote]

That's an inner pipe. Not what I need. Been looking for a pipe on fleabay. Found a real nice one for $100, but the seller had it listed as 72-77 I asked what year the pipe came off of and he didn't know. Must be 74-77. I need the outer / upper / the big one / whatever you want to call it. I know the pipe is trash. A real shame as the other 3 are pristine --dent and rust free. Those are likely trash on the inside though. I don't know yet. The bike only has 3500 miles on it, but it was stored outdoors. If the baffle plates are shot, I'll probably crap can the whole mess and save up for some Jemco's. I really don't want hot rod pipes, but there are no other options. I wish Suzuki would make another run of the exhausts. I'm certain they would sell hundreds, maybe even thousands of sets
I picked up a pretty nice spare set of carbs off ebay about 6 weeks ago. Melted lower boots looks like the only problem. Bit the bullet and bought 3 new boots before the price gets even more stupid than it already is. Cheapest I found were on Partzilla @ $16.97 each. The upper pivot boots are OK. A good thing as those are now $22 a pop. There seems to be no rhyme or reason on their pricing. I mean the muffler hanger bushings were only $4.09. A shiny new headlight rim costs less than 2 upper boots

[kettle kid]

I would.. Cut out the jagged edge,( trying to squire it up to clean metal) and get some cardboard, ( cereal box are the best cardboard ) and make a template (larger than the hole) and shape it slightly round to fit..
Then drill some small holes both sides, and along the edge, and slip the metal inside, and then tack weld through the holes..( like spot welding ) but tack it left then, right, then left again, (to restrict the heat input to stop distortion) then little tack welds until all the holes are filled.. Give it a good clean, wipe dry, mask the good chrome,( around the repair, and acid etch primer, then the best heat resistant silver rattle can spray.. Job done.. I would offer to do it for you, but I'm in the uk.

[Coyote]

Honestly, I haven't had a serious look at it yet. I did buy a small sheet of aluminum to do the job, but have ignored the pipe since removal. I'm starting to think this is a common problem as most of the pipes I find on ebay are right hand. I did find a couple of lefts, but they were 72-73. My long term goal is to find a good replacement pipe.
You can't see the hole when the pipe is mounted. Cosmetically, the other 3 pipes are in real nice condition. Had chambers on my last 550 and had high hopes of keeping the nice quiet stockers on this build. They may all be junk internally. Time will tell.

[CBWELLS]

I repaired a couple similar, but somewhat smaller holes my pipes using JB-WELD and the repair has held up very well for more than 3 years now. I understand the desire (need?) to minimimize expense. Since you asked, I recommend;
1] Remove any metal that's looks rusted... at least back to something solid to attach to.
2] Rough up the chrome surface where you will be bonding so the JB will have something to grip. Clean well!
3] I used metal screen (Like window screen). I don't think I even riveted it to the pipe. I just slathered the JB around the hole then embedded the screen into that goo & buttered it around the hole then let it cure.
4] After cure I mixed up more JB & covered the screen thoroughly & as evenly as I could manage.
5] After more cure, I sanded & shaped as needed. You can get a fairly nice surface if you want to spend the time on it.
6] Lastly, I painted with a silver paint.

No, it's certainly NOT OEM, but than again it keeps the noise in & looks a LOT better than the rusty hole & I stilll have some $$$ in my pocket to spend on other motorcycle stuff I desperately NEED!

Good Luck!

[Coyote]

The picture of the hole is in the first post (top). Here's what I did -- for what it's worth.

.015 aluminum sheet. 4 tiny sheet metal screws to hold it in place. The entire underside of the sheet is covered with JB weld. Next day, surrounded the patch with additional JB weld .Next day painted with aluminum paint. It's ugly at best, but can't be seen looking at the bike straight on. and I doubt it's gonna fall off.

[buffalodave]

If it works and you are happy with it...
That's all that really matters!
And I have seen WAY WORSE repairs!