Suzuki 2 Strokes

I'm trying to get the fork seals out on my 76 550. It has the original full length seals. I'm on my first one and it wont budge. I almost flipped the work bench over and it won't move I tried warming the end with a propane torch and that didn't help either. I am using a bicycle tire tool. It has a nice radius-ed non marring end on it and plenty of leverage. Tricks?

Hi,I haven't done that job in years,but I know they can be a right pain to get out ! I've just had a quick look on the Net,plenty of tips & advice about extraction methods...including the use of slide hammers ? the biggest thing of cause is not to damage the leg while your working on getting the seal out ! I'm sure someone will have a quick solution on here
Cheers,
Roger

isn't there a snap ring on top of the seal? Not sure about the year of 76, but I know that the 72 year does.

Try driving one side of the seal in and then pry out on the opposite side. I assume you have the forks disassembled.

i had to heat the slider around the seal with a propane torch. they were a bitch.

Piece of cake using a small flat head and a pair of needle nosed vice grips. Be careful not to gauge the inner diameter of the fork when slipping the flat head behind the seal. Gently tap the flat head through the middle of the seal to avoid gauging the aluminum. Once the seal starts to pry away. Clamp down tightly with the needle nose and pry upward. You'll have to likely do this in 2 or more areas. The key is bending the steal retainer inside the rubber. Use a socket close to the same diameter of the new seals to drive them into place. Be absolutely sure of the correct direction for the new seals to be seated or they will leak. Most seals are designed in that the beveled edge inserts face down to allow the seals to be inserted easier.

Yes they are apart. There was spring clip above the seal and that has been removed. Not near as tough as a snap ring. Got side tracked when my son came over and we put the engine back in the frame
I was already thinking about my slide hammer and I think I will try that next --- if I can get a good bite on it.

Coyote,

I hear folks using a small lever like a screwdriver as a prise bar, protecting the fork top edge with a slip of wood can work well. I didn't find that worked for me.

What I did was drill a few vertical holes through the metal ring in the seal (the flat outer) and screw in some self tapping screws. Grabbed them in turn with a mole grip and tapped it upwards with a hammer, moving from screw to screw until it was up and out.

Cheers,
Mike

Coyote wrote:Yes they are apart. There was spring clip above the seal and that has been removed. Not near as tough as a snap ring. Got side tracked when my son came over and we put the engine back in the frame
I was already thinking about my slide hammer and I think I will try that next --- if I can get a good bite on it.

Claw end of a strong hammer wrapped in several layers of painter's tape, then pry. Never failed me yet, and the seals on my GT750 were originals. Good luck

Some Kawi Triples seals can be a real bugger to get out as well.On My triples and the GT I used a hot air gun to heat up the seal area good and Hot. I have had only one seal that was very stubborn but LOT'S of heat she popped right out.

I wonder if you couldnt make a puller out of 2 pieces of steel , one to fit under the seal and 1 to fit over the open end of the fork leg... a bolt through the middle of the 2 pieces and tighten it down . Seems something like that may pull the seal out .

One out! I wasn't getting anywhere so I dragged out my oxy-acetylene torch and heated the piss out of it. The residual oil was sizzling and smoking hot. Slide hammer yanked it out in pretty short order. 1 down and 1 to go.