Oil Line Question

[speedfreak]

So, my project is up and running. I have a couple of small issues - petcock leak (only when running) and some electrical stuff due to my mods. Overall, I'm really happy. Should be on the road by the spring.

My question now is about the oil lines. When I had them off I cleared them with comp air - dangerous I know, but I was careful. Right side went great. Left side seems to have one check valve with a leaky seal (I think). I filled it with oil and left overnight - in the am there was a small puddle at the banjo.

Next issue - when I went to pre-charge them with oil I had a hell of a time... The valve from above fed no prob (due bad seal, right?). So it wouldn't charge the cylinder side line. After rigging up a jig I got it to charge, but it was much harder than both sides in the other line.

So - what is the effect of a leaky seal? Will the tank drain while sitting? How about unbalanced lines on same side? Will the cyl starve for oil?

Just want to be sure I'm not running her dry and I'm still learning the 2-stroke world - especially the injection side. Can someone prove or disprove my fears?

[GT750Battleship]

Hi,a big no,no to take compressed air to the oil lines..the check valves in the end of the lines are easily damaged ! The "crush" washers used on the banjo's should be replaced,even with the engine not running, oil will get past the pump & flow into the lines,IF check valves have been damage,oil will run into the crankcase,causing a possible "hydraulic lock" if you try & start her...bent connecting rods could be the outcome
Cheers,
Roger

Suzuki GT750A

[yeadon_m]

I would also guess that if one of the three lines fed by each of the two oil pump pistons has high resistance, that line will not get its share of oil! Mike

[jabcb]

An eBay seller has newly manufactured replacement check valves.
He recently started selling used oil lines with the new valves installed.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/1970sjapmotorbi ... 1420942846

Another issue is that oil lines on the twins (T250/T350/T500/GT250/GT500) have a junction block that connects the two motor-side oil lines to the one pump-side oil line. Air leaks tend to develop in the junction block in the small area between the two motor-side oil lines.
Good idea to clean & seal that area even if your lines have not yet developed an air leak there.

Stat-o-seal washers are a popular & better alternative to Suzuki's aluminum crush washers.

Bloop2 has a rebuild kit for the oil pump for sale on eBay.
Just be warned that the bolt for priming the pump has left hand threads!

[speedfreak]

So, I ordered the new set of check valves and 20 stat-o-selas from McMaster.

The most annoying part of all this is that I have already epoxied all the joints in the lines to avoid air leaks - so I'm going to have to dremel off the epoxy beofre I can put in the new valves. This ought to be fun...

[Coyote]

I wouldn't use those valves on a dare. Read the current post 'Holed Piston'

[speedfreak]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to leave alone the right side which has the original valves which, when I primed the lines, seemed to operate as expected.

I'm going to put the new vavles in the left because I'm no further behind. I know right now I'm not oiling the cyclinder and it's all being dumped onto the crank. Plus I know it has a slow leak.

I'll definitely keep an eye on it and make sure it's oiling. I'll report back if/when I have any proof or experince one way or the other. Thanks for looking out fo rme.