T500 Crankshaft Rebuild Kit

[Suzukidave]

Good luck .. its like trying to round up cats

[Vintageman]

500 pcs is a lot.

Other who make rods aftermarket ->

Wossner:
They are know for customes on their own dime.... buit I think since no one buys too many T500/GT750 pistons this endevor may not interest them anymore

Hot Rods:

What I have learned so far is one may be able to find a rod that has a 1mm larger ID big and small for there are some options for bearings. They key is center to center. so far the T500 136mm C C is looking to be odd here.

for example I just breezed quickly through 30 pages at Hot Rods and found no match(Polaris 800 #8623) had correct C-C length but ID too big. http://www.hotrodsproducts.com/ProductI ... ?cat_id=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


ProX



I suppose I am not the first to have done this search of another engine that may fit... with no luck. Don't even know why I care

[dinogt]

Hi everybody
I think there is not enough T and GT 500 for a big new made con rods.
Pete and I had tried in the same time to do (about) the same thing... rebuilt T500 cranks .
Pete had do with Samarin in spain new con rod kit (con rod like origin)... it is expensive solution for Pete, a little for Samarin (I think they take the idea at Pete and it is wrong for him) and also expensive for every body because it is not a Cheneese solution.
I have discovered a solution with 137.5mm Japan con rod... good but expensive.
Today I do also by another way with a 136mm con rod made in Japan not for race (because it is a haviest con rod) and needed a little crank case machined.
The price out of Europe with out shipping will be about 320€ both complete kits
Photos in my web site in some days

[Vintageman]

dinogt,

Thanks for reply and efforts


First: what do you think about cruzimages crank bearing kit on eBay. Have you had a chance to review these for quality?


A heavier rod (how much more?) is not as attractive to me in this specific case. I want to make a T500 engine that is a modified over stock for more performance.


All,

I verified the dimension of a OEM T500 rod. 136mm c-c, 30mm big ID, 23mm small ID and 22mm wide either end.

I plan to contact Hot Rods tomorrow about a custom rod.

I think SnowXparts.com is another source.

Anyone else?

[dinogt]

Want do I think about cruzinimage bearings... very good initiative but a few remarks... why put seal before (not good to put bearing in the cranckshaft)?... I hope those bearings a better than TPI bearings (used on a all 350RZ/Banshee crank... Hot Rod, Wiseco,WSM and so on), 200$, what's about 200$ for that, prehaps you just must buy 3 seals more at Suzuki... but we not must forget that cruzinimage is just a cheneese part saler... and not only bad carburators parts.
I don't remerber exactly but I think those rods are about 100g more at the head and SE bearings 22mm and not 23)
I break my crank 2 years ago, it was relieved and wtih 137.5mm rods, yesterday I just put an origin crank with those rods, this week I go on a circuit with other olds bikes (Pau Arnos , one of the best circuit in France http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xlj8dv ... -2011_news" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) and I could tell you if the heaviest con rods are good or not for rpm running.
If you contact Hot Rod or another, You must also give us a photo, this rod is special and they must do a new special mold... I think the difficulty is here.

[akendall1966]

Came across these
http://www.con-rod.com.tw/atv-connectin ... -8003.html
Use their own small end and a Prox big end bearing
24 x 31 x 1715 pcsSilver / M-Cage22.243117
24 x 31 x 1716 pcsSilver / Flat Cage22.243117F
Just have to deal with the width.

Or http://www.con-rod.com.tw/bearing-conne ... -8201.html 1mm too long but better width

http://www.con-rod.com.tw/yamaha-racing/RY-2216.html no good for big end but good everywhere else.

[dinogt]

The first link (RO8003) is the con rod I have just used (it is not Prox made), There is not enough mm between (machined rod or weels) the weels and you must do with specials washers and do with another BE and pin bearing
The second link has prehaps the same problem but solution exist at each problem.
The third link is not good for T500

[akendall1966]

The first link (RO8003) is the con rod I have just used (it is not Prox made), There is not enough mm between (machined rod or weels) the weels and you must do with specials washers and do with another BE and pin bearing

Yes the Rod is Taiwan made not Prox, the Prox reference is too the numbers below which are for 24/31 big end pin and bearing i.e. from my understanding the pin would likely fit the T500 crank and the rollers / cage suit the 'Royal-Rods' rod BE diameter.

Agreed at 17mm wide there is an additional 5mm of thrust bearing to make up to keep it central.

Very good to know you have tried it , and for the standard street bike although not perfect would work with minimal additional engineering.

Anyway just sharing what I found with a bit of internet searching

[dinogt]

Not Taiwan made, TKRJ Japan made.
The pin is not good for T500 neither the BE bearing.
I repete, machining a little weels or rod and also a little the crankcase.

[Vintageman]

I repete, machining a little weels or rod and also a little the crankcase.

Do you mean the rod if installed will hit crankcase? so need to grind big end or put a slot well in cases?

The pin is not good for T500 neither the BE bearing.

What is wrong with BE (Big End) bearing?

What is wrong with BE bearing when using GT750 BE and stock T500 rod.

Thanks for sharing your experience on this. If my stock rods OK I may just change BE, but not sure what is best BE to use with stock rods

[dinogt]

Need first grind weels or rods and second crankcase, photos in my web site in some days.
On a T 500 and GT 500 the pin is special and is 24x66 and not 25mm
Now, about since 1 year, the BE bearing 750 GT is better, I will see again if it is good or not for (only) origin T500 rod (and nor other con rod)...
I have just do 2 days at Pau Arnos circuit with others oldies...I don't feel any difference with the origin con rod, with my programmable Ignitec ignition, I don't go over 8000tr, my 500 GT is about 53HP (prehaps a little more) at the rear weel (with origin exaust pipes).

[Vintageman]

dinogt,

Thanks so much for reply.

I look forward to those pics! I don't know what you mean grind wheel or rod. do you me the other rod too thick/long and it hits case?
Why would you need to grind crank wheel weights?

So as of recent the GT750 BE bearing may be nice for the T500 original rod. What changed. Cage material better?

What about using Wossner Piston for T500. I thought first week point was piston skirt and not connecting rod (Not sure where that fails next in RPMs .

There were two OEM T500 rods? The early one and then the later. Maybe the early was a little weeker... thinner casting at SE?

53 HP rear wheel stock exhaust. Very nice! Is the only change ignition? I opuld think stock t500 was high 30s maybe 40 hp at wheel best stock?

Thanks again


a lot of question... keeps the chain growing

[dinogt]

Why would you need to grind crank wheel weights?

The conrod shank is too thick... a big mm too much

So as of recent the GT750 BE bearing may be nice for the T500 original rod. What changed. Cage material better?

Yes, better now, more pins longeur

What about using Wossner Piston for T500. I thought first week point was piston skirt and not connecting rod (Not sure where that fails next in RPMs .

Don't know Wossner piston for T500, I have Wiseco.

There were two OEM T500 rods? The early one and then the later. Maybe the early was a little weeker... thinner casting at SE?

No, only one... the pistons was a little differents, can't put "news" rings on olds pistons

53 HP rear wheel stock exhaust. Very nice! Is the only change ignition? I opuld think stock t500 was high 30s maybe 40 hp at wheel best stock?

programmable ingnition can't do that all alone... I have also change porting and cylinder top (squish made)
I think that at a T500 stock is less than 40HP at the weel... about 36.
My GT500 accelerated stronger than a GT750...about like 350RZ or 250TDR stock

[Vintageman]

I understand now. T500 crank wheels are stepped in towards rod and the alternate rod too thick between BE and SEE to fit between wheels


I do think Suz made 2 rods: 12161-15000 ("S0" marking) and 12161-15001 which is later (forget marking on it now) At one point I had both in my hand (don't think I was dreaming) and if I recall the stem casting was a bit beefier where it hooked to small end for example.

I figured you did more than just ignition, and was hoping you would tell (porting specs?).

I am not worried about a squish head (don't have so why worry). I will probally just take +1mm off stock head, and -2mm of Ex and Piston skirt intake side and JEMCO chambers


I did not know wiseco made T500 piston (is t500 exaact same as GT750 psiton?)

Yes Wossner makes T500 and GT750 pistons maybe for couple years now.

[dinogt]

I do think Suz made 2 rods: 12161-15000 ("S0" marking) and 12161-15001 which is later (forget marking on it now) At one point I had both in my hand (don't think I was dreaming) and if I recall the stem casting was a bit beefier where it hooked to small end for example.

Same rods, just a little oiled difference

I did not know wiseco made T500 piston (is t500 exaact same as GT750 psiton?)

Prehaps, it is possible but 750GT need guide washers at the SE and not at the BE.
Wossner are goods, not like Wiseco pistons, next time I will try to buy them.

The porting I do is exaust 188° intake 172°
squish 1mm
compress 9.5/1
runout crankshaft from 0.005 to 0.02mm (and not inches)
piston/cylinder clearance 0.05mm (when new)
Small run out and small clearance are most important for full power.

Don't know who is JEMCO, I do my welded cylinder top.