Carb Cleaning Tips/Tricks/Guidelines

[avc8130]

I'm officially attacking the carbs from my basket case 550. Of course they are dirty and disgusting so I am searching for ways to clean them up efficiently.

I started by removing all of the hoses and anything rubber I could see. I still have a bunch of the phenolic plastic parts that I'm not sure how/if I should remove them. The choke plungers are also still installed.

What is the best way to attack? I have a gallon of Berryman dip, I have read it is safe for the phenolic. Is that true?

I'm considering making a baking soda blaster, anyone have any experience?
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-t ... a_blaster/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ac

[Coyote]

By all means, keep the carbs separate. 2 have choke plungers, 1 does not. Remove the float bowls, floats, float needle and seat. From the body, remove the main jet, the pilot jet and the choke plungers. You should have already removed all hoses. Everything else is safe in the carb dip. Be very careful when removing the pilot jets. You need a screwdriver that fits perfectly or you will mangle the slot. If they seem really stubborn, try tightening them a little first. Sometimes that will break it free.
After the carb dip, wash everything in hot soapy water and rinse well. Stick them in the dishwasher if the missus isn't looking. Works great! Inspect the pilot jets carefully under magnification. Any trash / clogging of the through hole and the cross holes will cause you misery when you try to get it running. Especially at idle.
Before reassembly, use high pressure to blow through every hole in sight. Make sure all the passages are clear. Wet with WD40 so you can see if the air is coming out as you blow in. Never use compressed air on a assembled carb. It will destroy collapse and destroy the floats.
You will learn what a miserable job is to remove the carbs for even the slightest little change. The carbs need to be bench synced before mounting to the motor. That's another story I won't cover here

[avc8130]

Excellent...and luckily pretty much what I did. I got the carbs in a box. One of the pilot jets was already mangled by the previous owner, and the other 2 are MIA. I have the needles, but the seats are MIA. Float pins are MIA also.

I stripped the carbs and just went for it with the Chem Dip. It did a nice job. I still think I might follow up with a baking soda blast or a Pinesol dip to take off some oxidation the dip made. The oxidation seems to be where the carbs previously had build up of grime on the outside.

I still need to do the float bowls. They have a nasty varnish on the bottom.

ac

[pearljam724]

Berryman's is good stuff. You'll have to soak for about 24-48 hours. You will want to test the choke plungers installed. Pull each one by hand and if doesn't snap back immediately replace the springs. The springs usually last forever though. The best piece of advice I would give concerning cleaning any carbs. Triple check float heights to be accurate, it's critical to the performance of the bike. Check heights on all 6 lobes as the float arms are often tweeked. If they are that will give inaccurate measurements. That's why you have to check all 6 lobes. Check and test the floats for common microscopic cracks that allow unwanted gas to enter. Hold each float under very warm water. If they bubble, there is cracks. You can repair with solder or replace if they are too far gone. GENTLY wire clean all jets and bowl orifices and spray clean with canned carb cleaner and air. Synch each carb by using a home made feeler gauge under the slides. Being sure they open and close at precisely the same moments. People often don't realize there are emulsion tubes that need to be removed and cleaned as well. They are made of brass and the slide needle penetrates it. Be very careful removing them. There is one hidden starter jet imbedded in the wall of the choke side carb bowl that is not removable. Do not mix the bowls up and be sure to clean that orifice correctly or the bike will never idle properly. Be thorough, take your time and be sure not to miss one hidden orifice. It's important to grease the choke plunger rod. The better job you do, reduces the chance of having to take them off again. Which can be a pain in the ass to do a few times had you only done the job correctly the first time. It's also crucial to add an inline fuel filter and to have the tank sealed. Or you'll consistently have running / idle problems. You can't take short cuts in reference to a clean fuel supply.

[Alan H]

Personally, I would never wire clean brass jets as it scratches the orifices and you will then never get the mixtures set.
Soda blasting is good and non-nasty-abrasive and does not damage the part you're cleaning. I did my carbs and engine ok. It's very messy though so do it outdoors on a still day when the neighbours are on holiday!

[avc8130]

Berryman's is good stuff. You'll have to soak for about 24-48 hours. You will want to test the choke plungers installed. Pull each one by hand and if doesn't snap back immediately replace the springs. The springs usually last forever though. The best piece of advice I would give concerning cleaning any carbs. Triple check float heights to be accurate, it's critical to the performance of the bike. Check heights on all 6 lobes as the float arms are often tweeked. If they are that will give inaccurate measurements. That's why you have to check all 6 lobes. Check and test the floats for common microscopic cracks that allow unwanted gas to enter. Hold each float under very warm water. If they bubble, there is cracks. You can repair with solder or replace if they are too far gone. GENTLY wire clean all jets and bowl orifices and spray clean with canned carb cleaner and air. Synch each carb by using a home made feeler gauge under the slides. Being sure they open and close at precisely the same moments. People often don't realize there are emulsion tubes that need to be removed and cleaned as well. They are made of brass and the slide needle penetrates it. Be very careful removing them. There is one hidden starter jet imbedded in the wall of the choke side carb bowl that is not removable. Do not mix the bowls up and be sure to clean that orifice correctly or the bike will never idle properly. Be thorough, take your time and be sure not to miss one hidden orifice. It's important to grease the choke plunger rod. The better job you do, reduces the chance of having to take them off again. Which can be a pain in the ass to do a few times had you only done the job correctly the first time. It's also crucial to add an inline fuel filter and to have the tank sealed. Or you'll consistently have running / idle problems. You can't take short cuts in reference to a clean fuel supply.

Well...since the carbs came in a box of parts...

How many different float bowls are there? There appear to be 2 different types. 2 of the float bowls have brass tubes, one does not. I assume the 2 with the tubes go on the 2 carbs with choke plungers.

The choke plungers feel great. I do plan to seal the tank. I plan to run the bike on an aux tank for now. I'm just putting the carbs together so I can hear the motor run before total tear down of the bike.

ac

[pearljam724]

Correction, many carbs have only one starter jet on the choke side carb bowl. I just looked at my 550 bowls and each one has a starter jet. So, it doesn't matter where you place them. But, be sure to clean it very well. It sometimes is the hardest to clear if it's backed up. Soda blasting or ultra sonic cleaning are better methods. But, it's usually unnecessary. Those methods are nice for cleaning the bodies. But, even so. They will oxidize very quickly. So, I feel it's a waste to a degree. Soaking them and cleaning them with a rag works fine once they are removed from Berryman's. Being sure to spray them with a can and nozzle tip once they are removed. Wire works great as long as you're gentle. That's why I emphasized it. You're not hammering pieces of wire that are larger in diameter into small brass holes. You're just very gently clearing passages by entering the holes with a wire of smaller diameter. Extremely thin gauge guitar strings that easily bend work fantastic. I've used wire dozens of times and never had the slightest issues. The brass tubes in the bowls that you were referring to are over flow needles. They allow gas to drain via a hose attached to the bowls when gas levels are too high preventing flooding of cylinders. All 3 bowls have that tube. If one is not there. It has been broken off. You have to have that tube. These tubes are sometimes difficult to keep cleared of debris. If they clog. That cylinder can flood. Same goes for not having one. You can clear them with the carbs installed on the bike by blowing into the drain hose attached by mouth. When they clog the bike will run poorly. A good thing to remember if you're ever stuck on the side of the road.

[Cliff]

Personally, I would never wire clean brass jets as it scratches the orifices and you will then never get the mixtures set.
Soda blasting is good and non-nasty-abrasive and does not damage the part you're cleaning. I did my carbs and engine ok. It's very messy though so do it outdoors on a still day when the neighbours are on holiday!

Best to do it on a windy day! Just don't stand downwind!! Soda blasting works well, as long as the neighbour's windows are closed!!!

[avc8130]

Correction, many carbs have only one starter jet on the choke side carb bowl. I just looked at my 550 bowls and each one has a starter jet. So, it doesn't matter where you place them. But, be sure to clean it very well. It sometimes is the hardest to clear if it's backed up. Soda blasting or ultra sonic cleaning are better methods. But, it's usually unnecessary. Those methods are nice for cleaning the bodies. But, even so. They will oxidize very quickly. So, I feel it's a waste to a degree. Soaking them and cleaning them with a rag works fine once they are removed from Berryman's. Being sure to spray them with a can and nozzle tip once they are removed. Wire works great as long as you're gentle. That's why I emphasized it. You're not hammering pieces of wire that are larger in diameter into small brass holes. You're just very gently clearing passages by entering the holes with a wire of smaller diameter. Extremely thin gauge guitar strings that easily bend work fantastic. I've used wire dozens of times and never had the slightest issues. The brass tubes in the bowls that you were referring to are over flow needles. They allow gas to drain via a hose attached to the bowls when gas levels are too high preventing flooding of cylinders. All 3 bowls have that tube. If one is not there. It has been broken off. You have to have that tube. These tubes are sometimes difficult to keep cleared of debris. If they clog. That cylinder can flood. Same goes for not having one. You can clear them with the carbs installed on the bike by blowing into the drain hose attached by mouth. When they clog the bike will run poorly. A good thing to remember if you're ever stuck on the side of the road.

Any chance you can take a pic and point out this starter jet?

2 of my bowls have tubes, 1 does not. I guess I need to find a new bowl?

EDIT: False alarm. All 3 of my float bowls have the tubes. Only 2 of the carb bodies have similar brass tubes, but I don't think the 3rd needs it since it has no choke?

ac

[yeadon_m]

Yes, that's right. On the linked carbs on 550/380, the right carb has no choke plunger, and the right cylinder gets rich mixture when the choke lever is up by borrowing from the centre carb. That has a bigger diameter choke intake hole than left (have a look) and there is a link pipe connecting the engine sides of centre and right carbs.
Why this design, I have no idea!
Check part number for float bowls. If they are the same then fitted position with respect to carb won't matter. I marked mine L C R just in case.
Cheers, Mike

[pearljam724]

The site has had issues not allowing pictures for a few weeks. The starter jets are obvious. Looking inside the bowls, there's a big hole that is bored inside the wall of each bowl. There is a tiny jet down inside that hole that is not removable. Do not clean that jet with wire as it is simply too small. Use compressed air or a spray nozzle on a can of carb cleaner. Spray down inside from the top until it's very clear that carb cleaner is coming out the other side near the floor of the bowl. I like to spray from both ends as when it's cleared. You can see spray fire out the top and it's more obvious that it's cleared. When you spray from the top. The cleaner will only trickle out the bottom hole near the floor. The better you clean it. The easier the bike will start and idle properly under choke. It's common for them to clog if you have a fair amount of debris floating around from your tank. When the starter jets are cleared well. The bike only needs to idle under choke for 30 seconds. When they're clogged, it takes a lot longer for the bike to warm up under choke. Not a huge deal. But, for example. I can start my bike and shut the choke off after 20 to 30 seconds and it will idle proper. Clogged starter jets won't allow that, it would take a lot longer to allow it to idle after choke is off.

[avc8130]

The site has had issues not allowing pictures for a few weeks. The starter jets are obvious. Looking inside the bowls, there's a big hole that is bored inside the wall of each bowl. There is a tiny jet down inside that hole that is not removable. Do not clean that jet with wire as it is simply too small. Use compressed air or a spray nozzle on a can of carb cleaner. Spray down inside from the top until it's very clear that carb cleaner is coming out the other side near the floor of the bowl. I like to spray from both ends as when it's cleared. You can see spray fire out the top and it's more obvious that it's cleared. When you spray from the top. The cleaner will only trickle out the bottom hole near the floor. The better you clean it. The easier the bike will start and idle properly under choke. It's common for them to clog if you have a fair amount of debris floating around from your tank. When the starter jets are cleared well. The bike only needs to idle under choke for 30 seconds. When they're clogged, it takes a lot longer for the bike to warm up under choke. Not a huge deal. But, for example. I can start my bike and shut the choke off after 20 to 30 seconds and it will idle proper. Clogged starter jets won't allow that, it would take a lot longer to allow it to idle after choke is off.

Photobucket?

I think you are correct, it is darn obvious. I was trying to work off memory and when I walked outside it was obvious.

I'll make sure to hit that one. I haven't attacked the bowls just yet. They have been soaking in parts washer hoping to loosen the varnish. So far that has been a total failure. They are going in the Berryman when I have a chance to attend to them.

ac

[pearljam724]

I like to boil the bowls in extremely hot water for about 30 minutes prior and after the Berryman's. Very hot water performs well with removing stubborn gum deposits. Sometimes deposits can be hard as concrete. It helps to pick at it with spring puller tools. Some of those tools come with a few different bends that allow you to get into awkward angles or tight crevices. I once got a crappy bowl off Ebay that was filled with concrete like gum deposits. I tried every method under the sun to remove it. I was going to pitch in the trash if boiling it in hot water didn't work. Worked very well to my surprise. It has to be extremely hot water, though.

[avc8130]

I like to boil the bowls in extremely hot water for about 30 minutes prior and after the Berryman's. Very hot water performs well with removing stubborn gum deposits. Sometimes deposits can be hard as concrete. It helps to pick at it with spring puller tools. Some of those tools come with a few different bends that allow you to get into awkward angles or tight crevices. I once got a crappy bowl off Ebay that was filled with concrete like gum deposits. I tried every method under the sun to remove it. I was going to pitch in the trash if boiling it in hot water didn't work. Worked very well to my surprise. It has to be extremely hot water, though.

Have you tried that method with the carb bodies? Does the phenolic care?

ac

[Alan H]

If you decide to ultrasonic clean the carbs, don't do them over 15 minutes as the 'aluminium' parts start to degrade and pit.
Don't ask how I know this........