I use mineral spirits as a solvent in my solvent tank, floated on top of water. It doesn't eat plastic or glue on oil lines, and you could put as much as needed into a small container, and submerge the valve ends of the lines into the spirits for a day or so. Might help.
Just a thought
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You could try to find one in Denmark, every now and then there are some nice GT250s on http://www.dba.dk
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This is weird. I have all the banjos submerged and soaking in carb/choke cleaner for about 6 hours now. I have a little piece of tube i can put up to the manifold and blow/suck into all the lines. It flows just as easy both ways on every single line. Are there definitely check valves on a '72 GT550? it seems strange for all 6 to be stuck so totally open. i couldn't find the thread on how to disassemble them, does anyone know how? i can spin the banjo, but it looks like they might be permanently pressed together. they aren't unscrewing as i turn them. thanks for all the ideas so far.
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Hmmm. They should not be so plugged that they don't respond.
From the banjo bolt end, insert a piece of soft wire, like a single strand of large gage primary wire, into the hole in the banjo fitting, carefully, and see if there is something inside the banjo fitting.
As far as them turning on the line, they shouldn't. Some lines are glued to the banjo fittings, others are retained with a metal band around the outer diameter of the plastic line.
I am going through this now, on the two oil lines for my Kawasaki F11. The banjos are not check valved on the pump ends, and the banjo's themselves are aluminum, and break so manically easy. So, what I am doing is to drill the remainder of the fittings out of the plastic tubes, and move the retainer collar off the outside of the plastic, then insert a steel banjo fitting with glue, and reposition the collar. This should fix the banjo problem.
On some engines, the banjo fittings are check valve types, and you can disassemble them, like on an H series Kawasaki triple. Other engines have a separate banjo fitting with check valve, fed by a plastic tube, with sealer and retainer collar. The plastic tubing has to be hard, but flexible. I have seen stuff like that at my local hardware stores. Main thing to do is make sure any check valves are clean and working correctly, and that they are sealed to the feed tubes.
My Yamaha 100 Enduro has a steel banjo with check valve on its cylinder end, with a soft, flexible plastic line feeding it. The soft plastic line is just fine for the low pressures the oil pump generates in transferring the oil through them, less than 10 psi.
From the banjo bolt end, insert a piece of soft wire, like a single strand of large gage primary wire, into the hole in the banjo fitting, carefully, and see if there is something inside the banjo fitting.
As far as them turning on the line, they shouldn't. Some lines are glued to the banjo fittings, others are retained with a metal band around the outer diameter of the plastic line.
I am going through this now, on the two oil lines for my Kawasaki F11. The banjos are not check valved on the pump ends, and the banjo's themselves are aluminum, and break so manically easy. So, what I am doing is to drill the remainder of the fittings out of the plastic tubes, and move the retainer collar off the outside of the plastic, then insert a steel banjo fitting with glue, and reposition the collar. This should fix the banjo problem.
On some engines, the banjo fittings are check valve types, and you can disassemble them, like on an H series Kawasaki triple. Other engines have a separate banjo fitting with check valve, fed by a plastic tube, with sealer and retainer collar. The plastic tubing has to be hard, but flexible. I have seen stuff like that at my local hardware stores. Main thing to do is make sure any check valves are clean and working correctly, and that they are sealed to the feed tubes.
My Yamaha 100 Enduro has a steel banjo with check valve on its cylinder end, with a soft, flexible plastic line feeding it. The soft plastic line is just fine for the low pressures the oil pump generates in transferring the oil through them, less than 10 psi.
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New post.
I just looked at the page for the oil pumps on Parts Pro, and it showed the oil lines as one assembly, 6 outlets.
Do the single strand of wire into the lines test and see if there are really check valves in there.
It may be that the check valves are in the base of the ump, and not in the ends of the lines.
Look closely at the banjo ends of the lines, and see if there is a wrench flat on the end of the line that is closest to the plastic lines is. If so, do you see any threads there? If so, the banjos can be taken apart, if not, they don't come apart. I have one of those bikes here, and if you remind me tomorrow, I will look at it and try to determine if the banjos are valved or not. DON'T TRY TO TAKE A BANJO APART UNTIL WE DETERMINE IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT KILLING THE BANJO.
I just looked at the page for the oil pumps on Parts Pro, and it showed the oil lines as one assembly, 6 outlets.
Do the single strand of wire into the lines test and see if there are really check valves in there.
It may be that the check valves are in the base of the ump, and not in the ends of the lines.
Look closely at the banjo ends of the lines, and see if there is a wrench flat on the end of the line that is closest to the plastic lines is. If so, do you see any threads there? If so, the banjos can be taken apart, if not, they don't come apart. I have one of those bikes here, and if you remind me tomorrow, I will look at it and try to determine if the banjos are valved or not. DON'T TRY TO TAKE A BANJO APART UNTIL WE DETERMINE IT CAN BE DONE WITHOUT KILLING THE BANJO.
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H2RTuner wrote:You also need to space those filters back about 2 to 3 inches from the openings of the carbs. Home Depot, hardware stores have the "special plastic ducting" needed for these operations, in their "special plumbing for motorcycles and just about every other weird and strange project" departments.
Dave, I was wondering if "special plastic elbows" would work (better than directly on the carb)? I don't have a lot of room behind the carbs on Blueboy. I think I might be able to get 45 degree elbows, but I'm SURE 90s can be had.
Lane
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yep, looks like that might be the next step dave, thanks.
they've been soaking in carb cleaner for 24 hours and still all stuck. a piece of wire shows there is something in the banjo, and the way the pump is i don't see where there is room for a check valve near the pump.
i have always wanted to get a little peristaltic pump and figure out a way to vary the output based on RPM. i was talking with my friend who is a hardware engineer who thinks the controls would be pretty simple if you could read the RPM's digitally. the paristaltic pump is used a lot in medical applications and for high accuracy stuff. everyone is always saying how reliable these old pumps are, probably because i have ended up with every defective one ever made, ha.
they've been soaking in carb cleaner for 24 hours and still all stuck. a piece of wire shows there is something in the banjo, and the way the pump is i don't see where there is room for a check valve near the pump.
i have always wanted to get a little peristaltic pump and figure out a way to vary the output based on RPM. i was talking with my friend who is a hardware engineer who thinks the controls would be pretty simple if you could read the RPM's digitally. the paristaltic pump is used a lot in medical applications and for high accuracy stuff. everyone is always saying how reliable these old pumps are, probably because i have ended up with every defective one ever made, ha.
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timing tools?
first off let me say that i have never timed any bike or car for that matter , let alone a two stroke motorcycle. i am looking to do it my first time and i need to know what tools to get. the bike is a 1976 gt380 . i guess i need a dial indicator and a tester light or buzzer? right. ohh yaeh and feeler gauges for the breaker gap. but i have know clue where to get these. i did a search for a timing gauge and it was 160 dollars! another 40 for the gun? do i need to spend 200 dollars on tools just to time the bike? also once i get these tools if i do ,would anybody be interested in coaching me through it? please?
let me also state that i just got the bike back from a local guy who tried to tune the bike up for me originally. i rode it today and the bike runs horrible. way worse than before. he told me he timed it out to the refernce marks on the plate and then slightly advanced it . well whatever the case may be it runs badly .so much so that i can hear it when i ride. the bike ran fine when i got it , just had to really rev it under 3000 rpms when starting out in first. it was and still is now really soggy under that throttle position.
btw- i have the clymer manual , i do know what i'm doing for the most part(mechanically inclined), and i live about 15 min outside of philadelphia pennsylvania.any help would be greatly appreciated.
let me also state that i just got the bike back from a local guy who tried to tune the bike up for me originally. i rode it today and the bike runs horrible. way worse than before. he told me he timed it out to the refernce marks on the plate and then slightly advanced it . well whatever the case may be it runs badly .so much so that i can hear it when i ride. the bike ran fine when i got it , just had to really rev it under 3000 rpms when starting out in first. it was and still is now really soggy under that throttle position.
btw- i have the clymer manual , i do know what i'm doing for the most part(mechanically inclined), and i live about 15 min outside of philadelphia pennsylvania.any help would be greatly appreciated.
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No! You don't need all that stuff. A cheap indicator can be found at Harbor Freight if you have one. Also at Wholesale Tool Co. You can make your own test light from a cheap flashlight, some wire and a couple of small alligator clips. I posted a thread on here on building your own light. If I can find it I'll post the link. Some guys use a transistor radio tuned to no station - just static. The radio will 'pop' when the points break. This requires the ignition to be on. The lamp type does not. This is ALL you need! Feeler gauge you should be able to get at any worthy hardware store or auto supply house. Total investment should under $35.00
