I had a very similiar problem with my 76 gt750. If I would put a hand over the intake for the left cylinder it would fire for a few seconds. I pulled the carb apart a couple times with no success. The last time I noticed that the bowl had too much fuel and so I checked the fuel valve (on the float) and it had a piece of crud blocking it open. Fixed the problem, now the exhaust heats up about the same and runs on all 3!
Seems weird to me that having too much fuel in the bowl would prevent that cylinder from firing but "proof of the pudding in in the eating"
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Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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'71 T250 - Nasty pictures
Some beautiful bikes there. I don't know if mine will come out that nice but that is the objective.
I'll post some more nasty pics of the fenders tomorrow after I start a new photobucket album.
I sent out about 8 emails and faxes last week inquiring after parts, some didn't even bother to reply, but of those that did I found Paul Miller to have the most available and by comparison most reasonable (non coronary inducing) prices. So today I ordered a full set of seals, bearings and gaskets, as well as some of the shiny stuff I'll need when I start re-assembly. I'll order some more after the VISA bill comes in the mail
Thanks for the tip on the frame ground, I'll just cover the bare steel with some of that electrically conductive anti-seize before I bolt it up.
I also picked up my stuff from the chrome platers on friday, the pipes came out really nice, so did the fork leg lowers, the wheel rims however aren't as good as I'd hoped (can't make a silk purse from a sows ear etc) so I may end up buying some from one of them fleabay sellers in the orient.
I've made several calls locally looking for somebody who does vapour (vapor?) blasting, and getting responses like huh? y'what?, I'm thinking this might not be so easy, I've seen pics on the RD forum of engines cleaned this way and it certainly looks the business, I've got a media blast cabinet myself but didn't want to use anything gritty on it because I'm afraid there'll be some left behind even after a good washdown. I can't see any other way to get inbetween the cooling fins on the main cases, I gather the vapour blasting is a bit like steam cleaning. More calls tomorrow.
Sean
I'll post some more nasty pics of the fenders tomorrow after I start a new photobucket album.
I sent out about 8 emails and faxes last week inquiring after parts, some didn't even bother to reply, but of those that did I found Paul Miller to have the most available and by comparison most reasonable (non coronary inducing) prices. So today I ordered a full set of seals, bearings and gaskets, as well as some of the shiny stuff I'll need when I start re-assembly. I'll order some more after the VISA bill comes in the mail
Thanks for the tip on the frame ground, I'll just cover the bare steel with some of that electrically conductive anti-seize before I bolt it up.
I also picked up my stuff from the chrome platers on friday, the pipes came out really nice, so did the fork leg lowers, the wheel rims however aren't as good as I'd hoped (can't make a silk purse from a sows ear etc) so I may end up buying some from one of them fleabay sellers in the orient.
I've made several calls locally looking for somebody who does vapour (vapor?) blasting, and getting responses like huh? y'what?, I'm thinking this might not be so easy, I've seen pics on the RD forum of engines cleaned this way and it certainly looks the business, I've got a media blast cabinet myself but didn't want to use anything gritty on it because I'm afraid there'll be some left behind even after a good washdown. I can't see any other way to get inbetween the cooling fins on the main cases, I gather the vapour blasting is a bit like steam cleaning. More calls tomorrow.
Sean
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Your '75 doesn't have any crank chamber drain plugs, so how are you finding gas in the crankcase. Or do you mean there's gas in the cylinders?x6 Scrambler wrote:The plugs appear to me to be dry. After leaving the petcock open for a couple of minutes I get gas in the crankcase, but no gas comes out of the float bowl overflow. Go figure.
Joe
Stu
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Here you go http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/showpage.do?page=New. The picture of the tank and seat are in the new products page. Sorry, I had the wrong company name in my last post. The owner's name is Howard and he is great to deal with...returns email quickly and is very fair to deal with. The tank and seat are on their way to me and should receive them by the end of this week.
Moto velocit is another company in Italy that deals in nice vintage racing parts and I have dealt with them a little in the past. This is their site http://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/c ... age_uk.htm
Moto velocit is another company in Italy that deals in nice vintage racing parts and I have dealt with them a little in the past. This is their site http://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/c ... age_uk.htm
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Agree with CJF. But if enough gas runs into the crankcase that you can drain it from the bottom plugs, I can't imagine that it wouldn't be also running out from the bowl drain hoses along with soaking wet spark plugs. What float level did you set, and how did you set it?x6 Scrambler wrote:My crankcase has a drain plug on each side just in front of the engine mount. My engine serial number is 77743.
JOE
Stu
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The disassembled carbs soaked all night in carb cleaner. New main and pilot jets arrived from Suzuki today. I used the float valve and starter plunger from a Keyster kit but not the jets or needle. I washed the carb body in my parts washer and polished it up a little. I'm just now reassembling them, I attached a pic of how I measure the float height. I set the float at 27.3mm or 1 5/64". The end of the measuring tool rests on the gasket surface. I tend to agree with Craig that the problem is in the choke circuit or the pilot jet.
Thanks Everyone
Joe
Thanks Everyone
Joe
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72 J Buffalo specific items.
So here it is, the LIST of whats quirky or specific on the 72 buffalos.
The problem is some or a part of these items went over to the 73 model so i had to delete some of them from the list as they can be considered common shared items.
Apparently there was a domestic model in Japan that appeared in early 71 as a Mark Four Buffalo.
Its therefore possible the first export bikes got some of the Mark Fours specific items to speed up delayed production.
If someone has an early Buffalo with the brake pedal pivot on the footrest mount id like you to measure the inside distance from the peg rubber to the levers metal grip pad.
Remember Japanese people are generally small and most have small feet too so its possible the distance on these first bikes is closer.
72 J:: twin leading 4 shoe ft brake, all fork leg parts are specific as are the triple trees.
The front fender is wider with extra holes for the additional cables, 11 pleat gaiter boots are fitted.
Plastic cased gauge set, either in Mp/h or Km/h, reset knob is on the top left side, the tach has three warning lamps in the lower portion.
The chrome gauge undercovers for speedo and tach are model specific.
Keys are the earlier flat top type with a single sided tumbler design, theres no seat lock.
Ign lock has a metal chrome ring to secure it to the gauge mounting plate.
The front brake perch and lever assy for the twin cable setup is specific.
The left switch assy controls for lights are the flat button type, the choke lever is mounted on top of the left perch.
The control cables should be the grey casing type.
The headlamp bowl (horseshoe type) and the headlamp ears are painted, H.L ears have no centre holes for the indicator stalks, they are mounted onto the headlamp bowl holes.
The rear brake lamp housing assy is wider and has two bulbs fitted.
Some bikes have also been seen with no rear indicator stalk to frame brackets.
Rear view mirrors have the "S" on them and no damper rubber mounts are fitted.
The rear swing arm adjuster cap bolt hole top casting is rounded to match the washers radius.
These bikes are fitted with a plastic inner fender guard.
The chain guard is made of shiny black plastic with some faux vents at the rear side.
The rear brake hub has no wear indicator markings, some chain adjusters have been seen with a hole in their sides and some without.
Rectifiers are twin row metal channel open design, the main electrical panel sockets have no locking tabs.
The electrical plate has the socket holes cut to this non locktab shape, the backing socket holder is screwed on with a self tapping screw.
Carbs have flat screw-on tops with an individual fuel supply to each from a three outlet fuel tap.
The fuel tank has a metal radiator cap door, its spring loaded with a small pivot pin hinge welded to the tanks front edge.
The fuel tank lid has no lock assy and the striping is year specific.
The badges on the fuel tank are clipped on and have red lettering, the badges on the side covers state "water cooled 750"
The CCI tanks have been seen with two different style of mouldings, but both are kept on with a rubber strap. This tank sits on a bolted on bracket mounted to the frame.
The radiator side covers are painted, the chrome radiator guard has two additional inner parallel supports.
Some guards have been seen with a pressed dent at the lower section and some without, some with a seam weld at the lower centre or top centre as well. That makes at least four styles of the same guard,,,,huh????
The lower radiator hose spigot was fitted onto the engine with four philips head screws,
The SRIS valves had metal filters and were pressed into the crankcase, theres no tubing going to upper left vent spigot on left cylinder.
The radiator fan is fitted with a sensor fitted on the thermo housing, first generation cylinders have bolt on rubber carb flanges, later 72s have the spigots made on to the cylinder.
Some very early bikes have been seen with the ULTRA RARE two piece cylinder heads, (possibly a Mark four model carry over item)
The alternator and points covers carry emblems made into the item, theres no decals fitted.
Some exhaust flanges have been seen with tapered fins, some with all flat section fins, some with smooth sections AND fins.
The side stand has a specific two bolt fitting to the frame.
The first models have the rear brake pedal pivot on the rh footrest bolt fitting, later ones have a seperate pivot pipe mount and end cap with split pin.
The gear shifter has a different shape and a covered end rubber, some kick starters have been seen with a double bend design.
The seat carries a front to rear design rectagular panel pattern with the corners triangulated, the Suzuki or Suzuki GT print has been seen on the back.
The chrome trim on the seat goes right around it in one piece.
The Suzuki Motor Co ltd white decal should be under the side cover emblem, but its never been seen on any bike,,,yet.
If i missed anything just let me know and i'll add it,,,,,
The problem is some or a part of these items went over to the 73 model so i had to delete some of them from the list as they can be considered common shared items.
Apparently there was a domestic model in Japan that appeared in early 71 as a Mark Four Buffalo.
Its therefore possible the first export bikes got some of the Mark Fours specific items to speed up delayed production.
If someone has an early Buffalo with the brake pedal pivot on the footrest mount id like you to measure the inside distance from the peg rubber to the levers metal grip pad.
Remember Japanese people are generally small and most have small feet too so its possible the distance on these first bikes is closer.
72 J:: twin leading 4 shoe ft brake, all fork leg parts are specific as are the triple trees.
The front fender is wider with extra holes for the additional cables, 11 pleat gaiter boots are fitted.
Plastic cased gauge set, either in Mp/h or Km/h, reset knob is on the top left side, the tach has three warning lamps in the lower portion.
The chrome gauge undercovers for speedo and tach are model specific.
Keys are the earlier flat top type with a single sided tumbler design, theres no seat lock.
Ign lock has a metal chrome ring to secure it to the gauge mounting plate.
The front brake perch and lever assy for the twin cable setup is specific.
The left switch assy controls for lights are the flat button type, the choke lever is mounted on top of the left perch.
The control cables should be the grey casing type.
The headlamp bowl (horseshoe type) and the headlamp ears are painted, H.L ears have no centre holes for the indicator stalks, they are mounted onto the headlamp bowl holes.
The rear brake lamp housing assy is wider and has two bulbs fitted.
Some bikes have also been seen with no rear indicator stalk to frame brackets.
Rear view mirrors have the "S" on them and no damper rubber mounts are fitted.
The rear swing arm adjuster cap bolt hole top casting is rounded to match the washers radius.
These bikes are fitted with a plastic inner fender guard.
The chain guard is made of shiny black plastic with some faux vents at the rear side.
The rear brake hub has no wear indicator markings, some chain adjusters have been seen with a hole in their sides and some without.
Rectifiers are twin row metal channel open design, the main electrical panel sockets have no locking tabs.
The electrical plate has the socket holes cut to this non locktab shape, the backing socket holder is screwed on with a self tapping screw.
Carbs have flat screw-on tops with an individual fuel supply to each from a three outlet fuel tap.
The fuel tank has a metal radiator cap door, its spring loaded with a small pivot pin hinge welded to the tanks front edge.
The fuel tank lid has no lock assy and the striping is year specific.
The badges on the fuel tank are clipped on and have red lettering, the badges on the side covers state "water cooled 750"
The CCI tanks have been seen with two different style of mouldings, but both are kept on with a rubber strap. This tank sits on a bolted on bracket mounted to the frame.
The radiator side covers are painted, the chrome radiator guard has two additional inner parallel supports.
Some guards have been seen with a pressed dent at the lower section and some without, some with a seam weld at the lower centre or top centre as well. That makes at least four styles of the same guard,,,,huh????
The lower radiator hose spigot was fitted onto the engine with four philips head screws,
The SRIS valves had metal filters and were pressed into the crankcase, theres no tubing going to upper left vent spigot on left cylinder.
The radiator fan is fitted with a sensor fitted on the thermo housing, first generation cylinders have bolt on rubber carb flanges, later 72s have the spigots made on to the cylinder.
Some very early bikes have been seen with the ULTRA RARE two piece cylinder heads, (possibly a Mark four model carry over item)
The alternator and points covers carry emblems made into the item, theres no decals fitted.
Some exhaust flanges have been seen with tapered fins, some with all flat section fins, some with smooth sections AND fins.
The side stand has a specific two bolt fitting to the frame.
The first models have the rear brake pedal pivot on the rh footrest bolt fitting, later ones have a seperate pivot pipe mount and end cap with split pin.
The gear shifter has a different shape and a covered end rubber, some kick starters have been seen with a double bend design.
The seat carries a front to rear design rectagular panel pattern with the corners triangulated, the Suzuki or Suzuki GT print has been seen on the back.
The chrome trim on the seat goes right around it in one piece.
The Suzuki Motor Co ltd white decal should be under the side cover emblem, but its never been seen on any bike,,,yet.
If i missed anything just let me know and i'll add it,,,,,
