happened the same on TS400 of mine, I'd tryed with compressor tool also, at the last I cutted the nut... did it at two opposite ends then a blow spiltted it out. Turned out that PO used Loctite on it...
My GT500 does the same type of thing. Someone else on the board told me it was due to the design of the tach and how it is driven off the engine. I don't remember the details, but do a search and you cn probably find the post.
Mike id toss that nut since its slightly damaged already and you should also have a new lock washer and nut ready to install anyway.
If you dont have use of the air tool/socket, use a dremel moto tool with a cut off wheel to split the nut as far as you can go, then finish it off with a sharp chisel to split it open on that spot and remove it.
Looks like I will be trying to figure it out after all. Yesterday while I was out running around it quit again. I just know that it is real hard to figure out an electrical problem that has fixed itself, that is until it un-fixes itself.
Both the tach and oil pump run off the same shaft to the clutch basket. When you dis-engage the clutch to shift, etc. both will also stop, so it is VERY important that that you do NOT hold the clutch in while stopped as NO oil is being pumped. Crazy design flaw on many Suzuki 2-strokes.
From your description it sounds like you have a starter motor that needs looking at.
I'd check for dry or gummed up armature bushings or the brushes sticking in their holders creating an intermittent contact to the commutator.
While youre at it, clean the starter button contacts as well, make sure the solenoid is clicking properly and all conections are clean and tight.
Thanks for the great ideas guys - knew there'd be ways that I couldn't think of.
However, I have been successful - after a lot of cursing. The nut wasn't as bad as I thought. I borrowed a better socket set with a big lever bar, locked the chain up and used my leg (instead of arm) on the bar and got some more oomph in there - knew all those years of karate would eventually pay off
Gents,
long time no talk.
been busy at work.
Took ole schmokey to get inspected. my left control doesn't work all that well. the horn button is not functioning and the blinker switch only works half the time. I already knew this... was hoping ( so much for hope ) no one else would catch on.
anyhow, anyone have an extra working one they could part with ? I took mine apart and it is corroded beyond repair. by the time I cleaned all the connections there was no metal left.
I would be willing to purchase a newer set left controls and right throttle unit... anyone have any ideas of what may swap on nicely ? I do kinda like the metalic look of the vintage controls, although I'd use good looking black plastic ones. Evilebay has been sparse on this topic..
What am I missing here guys? I've got new sprockets fitted (15 front and 36 back - both 530s) and have tried to fit the chain. It's a heavy duty 530 x 112 link. This is the same type as I took off.
However, after having put the chain on, I have to have the rear wheel back at the last adjusting mark and the chain is still slack/has too much play. What's going on here? The wheel shouldn't be at the furtherest adjustment mark with a new chain should it?
you can take out a few links. when i purchased my chain i went to a bearing supply store and bought 10ft of it and a master link. i just used a chain breaker to pop off the excess and then put the master on.
I thought the stock length was 110 links. Perhaps you could shorten the chain to 110 links and I suspect it would fit with the 36 tooth sprocket. I know some folks using the stock sprockets (15/33) have shortened their chain to 108 links.