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Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
I have been able to find a CCI sticker locally. However, it looks diferent to the one I previously had. This one is 45mm long and 15mm high. The letters are black with a white outline.
Are there different types of stickers and do you know what the one for the 71 T500 should look like. Probably just being pedantic, but once it's clear-coated it's on there for good.
Thanks for any advice
Mike
Are there different types of stickers and do you know what the one for the 71 T500 should look like. Probably just being pedantic, but once it's clear-coated it's on there for good.
Thanks for any advice
Mike
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
I've already done that.every thing top to down is ok except the alternator.Bikegeezer wrote:No, that isn't it. That's for the charging coils on the GT500 with PEI ignition. Your bike doesn't have PEI, and your stator is different. And the manuals make no mention of resistance readings on the earlier bikes that had ignition points. But the readings you got are similar to those on two coils that I have.johnakay wrote:yeh but cant see anything on how to check restistance etc in the charging system.
mmmm#
is this it?
http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/pei011.jpg
Hook a voltmeter across your battery terminals and note the reading. Then rev the engine to 5k briefly with the headlamp on and note the reading. It should be at least one volt higher than before you started the engine, and not less than 14 volts. If not, and if you're sure the battery is good, I'd suggest testing the regulator and rectifier, even though you say they're okay.
Stu
now I'm starting to get a little pissed off now. so I think I'll just put every thing back together and sell as is,.
I haven't got time to fanny around with this old bike any more and I want to sell asap as theres no room in my garage.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
So, went and picked up the parts yesterday.
For the princely sum of $120, I was able to get nearly new front rim/caliper/axle/speedo drive, nearly new rear wheel/brake/brake cable/lever, a nearly new headlamp/bucket, nearly new seat, chain guard, and a (free) spare seat to use while I have this other repadded.
Not a bad price, if you ask me!
Took me a three hour round trip to pick it up, but not bad, considering my car sips gas.
Am I correct in thinking that I can put a pair of right front fork legs on a 380 to make it a dual-disc set up? I know I'd need to change the MC, and a SV650 MC is a good match for it.
For the princely sum of $120, I was able to get nearly new front rim/caliper/axle/speedo drive, nearly new rear wheel/brake/brake cable/lever, a nearly new headlamp/bucket, nearly new seat, chain guard, and a (free) spare seat to use while I have this other repadded.
Not a bad price, if you ask me!
Took me a three hour round trip to pick it up, but not bad, considering my car sips gas.
Am I correct in thinking that I can put a pair of right front fork legs on a 380 to make it a dual-disc set up? I know I'd need to change the MC, and a SV650 MC is a good match for it.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
I am not 100% certain here but I think the 380 fork legs are smaller than the 35mm legs on the 550 & 750. I'm thinking 33mm on the 380. That would mean an entire front end change to go to a dual disk setup.
You can't use 2 right legs as only one would be correctly machined for the caliper location. Not to mention the fender mounting holes are pointed out on one leg. :bwall:
You can't use 2 right legs as only one would be correctly machined for the caliper location. Not to mention the fender mounting holes are pointed out on one leg. :bwall:
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
How to tell if choke is on?
I'm still trying to work out the bugs on my 76 gt750. The left cylinder isn't firing unless I put my hand over the carb intake for a second, then it sputters and fires for a few seconds then nothing. I'm also not sure if the choke is on with the lever up or down? Thanks
David
David
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
choke is on when the lever is down. Off when up. I would suspect a clogged pilot circuit on the non firing cylinder. By placing you hand over the intake you are forcing the carb to draw in fuel. It gets enough to fire a few times, then runs out again indicating there is no pilot fuel for it to run on.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
choke off- up
I'll take them apart for the 3rd time. 1st time I got one of the diaphrams in crooked. 2nd time I failed to clean out the middle air jet properly. Thanks!
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
There is a tiny little passage in the bottom of the float bowls that routes fuel to the choke circuits. It happens to be the easiest thing in those carbs to clog, and the most difficult to get clean. I use a 9 gauge guitar string to start the process, then blow it out with canned carb cleaner, followed by 150 psi air.
Lane
Lane
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm