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[Admin]

...how important is it really that the "L" timing mark align with the case?

No matter how I jiggle it or play with it, it won't stay aligned when I put the case back on. I did align the punched mark on the gear with the tang beside it, but this is just a guestimation, as the gap between the two marks is so great. It doesn't seem to be something with tight tolerances.

The closest I could get to lining up the timing mark is with the vertical leg of the "L" lined up with the case's mark.

Will this throw off timing completely, or will I be able to compensate for it?

Thanks, guys.

[Admin]

CYCLE said

" Unlike the previous LeMans which had usable power from 2000 to 7000rpm, the M model is reluctant to pull the 559 pound package until the tachometer needle reaches 4500 rpm."

So it doesn't make much HP down there, but it should not bog down - just feel a a little flat.

I think that was due to Suzuki eliminating the "crossover" tubes on the exhaust headers that year. So chambers would amplify this condition.

[Admin]

May be from the obvious and dumb corner of suggestions:

Have you checked your windings for breaks?

[Admin]

Here is some pics of the finished bike. Thanks for all the help guys.
Mike

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/56 ... z?start=12

[Admin]

I love it!! I really do prefer solid-color paint jobs. Of course, in some of hose pics, the bike seems to have grown valves!




Lane

[Admin]

Interesting point Tim. Those crossovers are supposed to help the lower part of the powerband, but when they are blanked off it doesn't seem to make a lot of difference. It will be a factor though.

IMHO, the biggest problem with MAB motors is the intake port which has way too much duration for the rev range it operates in.

The JKL intakes are much better suited to the motor.

[Admin]

Blueboy's engine is an "M" with a 2.75mm lift-plate, modified piston skirts, and 3.25mm decking. It likes to be above 3500 also, and doesn't really hit hard until about 6K. The optimum powerband is fairly narrow, but it's still torquey for a ported two-stroke from 3-6K. To get moving I rev it to 3K or above. Clean the needle jets, as you already mentioned, and try one notch change in the needle clip. If you put Keyster carb kits in there, the needles are GROSSLY WRONG. Go back to the stock needles.

My stock "L" model will pull cleanly from 2K.


Lane

[Admin]

Well, I'd still have to say that it may be an indication of problems - but as long as you have good compression you should be able to fix it with a standard tune up.

I typically work on low end bikes (read cheap blown up abused junk) and I've had a few that had blued pipes (even suzuki's - my GT550 that I have now has blued pipes too ((granted that was from a massive timing with lean condition and holed piston blown up engine)), but after things are set to back to spec even that bike runs good.

I'd certainly use it as a bargaining chip in the price point though!

Did you end up looking at it? Good luck! Arne

[Admin]

First off - awesome bike! I really like it.

If you have a set of stock exhausts and a free afternoon you could always throw them on and see if it makes a difference.

(Good information regarding your blueboy Lane)

Good job and good luck!

[Admin]

The bike was a 2 hour drive for me, so I had him send me some pics before wasting a trip. Good thing I did. Even though it looked decent in the one picture he had posted, it turns out it had sat in a barn for 10 years, all the chrome was shot beyond use. I had just finished my B100P and had all the chrome redone, very expensive and I wasn't about to spend that kind of money again at this time. Still looking for a decent 500...

[Admin]

It is normal, impossible to stay aligned, one tooth clockwise or one counterclockwise; put on that cover than compensate by the points' plate.

[Admin]

May be from the obvious and dumb corner of suggestions:

Have you checked your windings for breaks?

BLOODY ELLY I'm not a techy wize kid ya know..
if I was I wouldn't be askingthesequestions
__________________

[Admin]

"Blued" pipes are considered normal on a Norton. Mine, and virtually all I've seen including "show bikes" seem to be this way.
Ed
GT550A
71 Commando
Bul Frontera 370

[Admin]

I took it out again yesterday and the low end didn't seem so bad. The bike may have not been used for 25 years so I expect some cobwebs. There is a definate clutch/throttle technique required for a clean pull away from a stop. Not enough revs and you'll be looking at your watch while the revs slowly build, too much and it'll be making all kinds of noise with the front end wanting to come up. To ride it nice and smoothly requires some skill.
A new issue that has come up is that the revs don't want to come down, or come down slowly. It may be the throttle cables or the linkage needing oiling, or an air leak, or?
Thanks guys for all the input.

[Admin]

A new issue that has come up is that the revs don't want to come down, or come down slowly. It may be the throttle cables or the linkage needing oiling, or an air leak, or?
Thanks guys for all the input.

That's usually a lean condition on your idle circuit from an airleak, clogged up idle fuel circuit, improper adjustment of your idle air screw, or too small of pilot jets.

It may also be why your bike won't pull low end. (lean will rev but not pull)

Set your idle air screw to make it richer or bump your idle jets up if you've got some.

(Idle air screw is the one on the side of the carb that you usually set out about 1 1/2 turns, try setting them about 1/2 a turn out to start and move it out 1/4 turn at a time until its good)

Typically the screw should be between 3/4 and 2 1/2 turns out or you should put in a different idle fuel jet.

(Also check if you've plugged up your idle circuit in your carbs or have an air leak)

Good luck! Arne