gt750 cyls.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:41 am

Derek , did you ever get the cylinder off ?

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:01 am

Derek as youve found out 1/4 inch is too thin and so its best to use the 1/2 inch stuff, this way you dont need to weld on the nuts and it wont bend.
The buffalo cylinders get stuck on there very good from time and moisture and its not impossible to remove them its just a due process you have to go through to get them off.

derek · Post by **derek** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:32 am

yeah ill get it handled. i havent messed with it for a while now. guess i should get it handled so i can get it going.

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:28 pm

I think the main thing is to go slowly till you are sure its moving (or not moving as the case may be) - if you try to reef down on the 10mm bolts too fast, you'll just pull the 8mm ones out of the cylinder head. From the few I've done personally, a 1/4 inch plate should be fine otherwise I suspect you will be needing to look at TZ's suggestion further back in this thread. Take it a flat at a time in the same pattern as you would torquing a new head on - leave it over night with the tension on the plate if nothing happens immediately. And fill the bolt holes with the penetrant of your choice before you start. Someone may jump in to say its a waste of time (

) but it won't hurt !

Whit · Post by **Whit** » Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:23 pm

You guys amaze me. I think there are people on this site that could have their own TV show on rebuilding old motorcycles. I for one would subscribe to it. ///Pat

Arne · Post by **Arne** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 7:32 am

Here's a picture of one that I pulled over a couple weeks and the stud ripped out of the top case.

Stud still in the loose cylinders:

Top case where the stud broke the casting:

I use a junk head to pull with, personally I wouldn't use a head I was going to run to pull with (heads for these things are pretty easy to find).

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:15 am

Durn , that bad boy was really stuck

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:20 am

When i assemble the engine i am working on now i am going to be sure and use the sealing type washers under the head bolts to help stop the water from getting down into the stud holes and i am going to slather the studs with anti seize as well as painting the studs with anti rust paint .

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:52 am

Just for you Pat,,Suzsmokeyallans bike shop show now on at 7pm so watch for GT updates,,,,beers optional.
You think JB weld could fix it Arne ????? LOL,,, ok enough of that idea.
The thing here is to move slowly doing small tightening sequences on all the bolts the same amount.
If necessary use a torque wrench to confirm torque although an experienced mechanic can 'feel' the differences.
Always torque then look at the base, if you see a space starting then make sure you maintain it evenly front to back and left to right at all times as you keep raising the cylinder. If youre not doing this, especially the left to right side distance youre bending the con rods and thats not good.
Lube wont hurt either, although ive yet to see it work, so put PB blaster,ATF or brake fluid etc, maybe a small bit of carefully applied heat if one or more studs seem a lot tighter than the others.
Always watch those 8mm bolts and recheck them regularly since they have been known the stretch and or strip out.
To add to this get ones that go all the way down into the holes with threads, you want as much holding power as possible so they wont strip the threads in the head at the start.
If you prepare yourself and they strip, you can say you tried and not lament after " i should have used longer ones"

What id also do Dave is to put a healthy bead of RTV silicone under the head of the bolts and then put them on so it forms a seal to stop water or moisture from going down the shoulder and into the studs.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:12 am

I had one that was so badly stuck that I ended up drill right through the barrel and through the stud to break it off.

There is often one or more studs that do not want to come loose and it's really important to take time and do it evenly. If they are badly stuck they 8mm bolts may tear out of the head.

Whether you use a puller plate, a spare cylinder head or the way that Suzuki recommend - a set of bolts tapped into the stud bosses, the trick is to take your time.

Heat helps as does your favorite penetrating fluid. I usually heat the barrel locally with a propane torch until the penetrating fluid starts to smoke or boil.

Once it starts to move, release the tension and knock it back down. The repeated movement up and then down is much more effective at loosening it.

derek · Post by **derek** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:16 am

i started working on it yesterday again.. this time using the allthread and nuts under the plate that i hold with a wrench instead of welding. we got the head to move up about 1/4" before one of the nuts stripped on the all thread and 2 other pieces of allthread bent pretty bad. so we left the tension on it and im going to have another go at it on friday with fresh allthread and nuts.

this thing is insane.....

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:26 pm

Derek,

Release the tension, make sure all the stud holes are full of WD40 or your preferred tipple, and bash the barrel back down with a rubber or hide faced mallet.

Moving it up and down tends to break it loose much better than to keep moving in one direction.

derek · Post by **derek** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:36 am

i was thinking about that. and all of the stud holes have been filled with pb blaster since i started this thread months ago. i guess one good thing is that a few of the holes will no longer hold the fluid. it just runs out the bottom. ill report back when ive made more progress.

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:51 pm

Sounds like progress - as TZ suggests, if you can make it move up and down then you should almost there !

MotoMartin · Post by **MotoMartin** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:17 pm

For new people reading this thread getting overwelmed that they may have to fabricate a steel plate, you may get lucky. I pulled the cylinder off of my bike, which had been sitting for 20+ years, with the motor in place in the frame. I looped several tie downs around the frame with plastic coated hooks in the exhaust and intake ports and cranked away until the head came off. Worth a try before you start freaking out.