Suzuki 2 Strokes

you can if you coat all 4 faces like i said - plus, how many times are you likely to take the clutch cover off?
i make my own gaskets anyway, clutch, carb, base, oilpump, even the head gaskets out of 0.3mm copper
sheet. anneal them and re-use time and again. also make my own carb insulators for the bolt on ramair carbs
out of tufnol. takes about an hour each but gives me job satisfaction why buy when you can make?
cheers, dd.

I made my own gasket for the top of a GT750 oil pump. That was a little challenging. I make all my float bowl gaskets from 1/16" viton. They last forever.....even with 10% ethanol.

i also put a gasket, with wellseal on the neutral light switch. even new o rings don't seal very well
and a gasket stops any oil leaking out the gearbox. for the few minutes it takes to make and fit,
it's well worth the effort
cheers, dd.

dollydog wrote:you can if you coat all 4 faces like i said - plus, how many times are you likely to take the clutch cover off?
i make my own gaskets anyway, clutch, carb, base, oilpump, even the head gaskets out of 0.3mm copper
sheet. anneal them and re-use time and again. also make my own carb insulators for the bolt on ramair carbs
out of tufnol. takes about an hour each but gives me job satisfaction why buy when you can make?
cheers, dd.

That is very impressive DD. Old school. I like it!
How do you cut the big hole in the middle for your copper head gaskets?

trepanning tool aka tank cutter - like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Priory-201-C- ... 2682744220" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
before you start you must screw the corners of the plate securely to a block of wood and make sure it's dead flat.
cheers, dd.

Clutch Rattle no more do what I say next if problem is inner clutch bearing, usually it is even if pristine or fitted per Service Bulletin

By the updated "Primary Driven Gear Spacer" Suz part# 21251-13E00. It replaced one of the washers as well, because it has a shoulder/integrated washer on one end unlike original. This part is used on T350 and GT250, but also DRZ-250. So , here is a better pick of what new part looks like (see item 5)

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/S ... parts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is what the original part looks like (See item 2)
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/S ... parts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The shoulder keeps the clutch basket more stable in two dimensions preventing rattling.

Clutch Rattle no more do what I say next if problem is inner clutch bearing, usually it is even if pristine or fitted per Service Bulletin

By the updated "Primary Driven Gear Spacer" Suz part# 21251-13E00. It replaced one of the washers as well, because it has a shoulder/integrated washer on one end unlike original. This part is used on T350 and GT250, but also DRZ-250. So , here is a better pick of what new part looks like (see item 5)

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/S ... parts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is what the original part looks like (See item 2)
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/S ... parts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The shoulder keeps the clutch basket more stable in two dimensions preventing rattling.

dollydog wrote:trepanning tool aka tank cutter - like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Priory-201-C- ... 2682744220" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
before you start you must screw the corners of the plate securely to a block of wood and make sure it's dead flat.
cheers, dd.

Hmmm. I am looking at that method and wondering how many times I will bugger it up before I get the hang of it....
I guess there is only one way to find out!
What sort of copper sheet do you use? 0.3mm on a roll?
What do you use to cut the edges?

what do i use to cut the edges? i presume you mean round the stud holes etc? SCISSORS decent scissors will easily cut
thin copper, where tin snips tend to curl it up. i ALWAYS cut the centre hole first, followed be the stud holes, followed by the final shaping
cheers, dd.

dollydog wrote:what do i use to cut the edges? i presume you mean round the stud holes etc? SCISSORS decent scissors will easily cut
thin copper, where tin snips tend to curl it up. i ALWAYS cut the centre hole first, followed be the stud holes, followed by the final shaping
cheers, dd.

Ok Thanks for the advice. I know what I will be trying if I want to raise the compression ratio of my GT380!
Had a look on ebay, Boy sheet copper is not cheap!

it most definitely aint cheap the first one i made was slightly off centre, so it went in the scrap bag - but after that i got them pretty damned perfect every time. if you know anybody that does laser cutting, take an old gasket to them and your copper sheet and get them to do it. it will be spot on every time, but nowhere near as much fun
think i started with a 200mm x 200mm piece 0.3mm thick and made 4 out of it. i used 0.5mm thick on my big bang engine.
cheers, dd.
ps, shouldn't we start a new thread on making gaskets? this is supposed to be a clutch rattle thread

dollydog wrote: ps, shouldn't we start a new thread on making gaskets? this is supposed to be a clutch rattle thread

Yes that is a good idea. Perhaps you could add a few pics of your gaskets or process.
New topic to be found here.... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13132
and apologies for the hijack.

well finally got the new bushing and only ground off a tad, used just a smearing of black permatex at the bottom of the clutch cover and it now seems to work fine.....no more rattle or leak.....originally ordered the suggested sealant from the UK but it couldn't get through customs for some reason...do appreciate all your suggestions and help

lewis1956 wrote:originally ordered the suggested sealant from the UK but it couldn't get through customs for some reason...do appreciate all your suggestions and help

Glad you got it sorted. You can probably find the gasket sealants in the USA on ebay too. Certainly threebond you can

threebond is now 1184, which is the same as the old stuff we used to use, but no lead in it.
i've used it on several crankcases and it works fine
cheers, dd.