oil pump bleeder bolt and bubbles in lines

[tz375]

I'd be tempted to buy two check valves for a Polaris Sled and use some flexible clear hose and replace the lines.

[CJF]

It may be worth a try. Is this the check valve you are thinking about?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Polaris-Sno ... 02&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any idea if it has a 6mm bolt opening? It would also need to be around the same cracking pressure. Not sure what the T500 check valve pressure is. I did see on a kaw forum that the Kawasaki H1/H2 pressure is around 4psi, so maybe the T500 might be close to that?

[tz375]

That's what I was thinking.

And they are pretty cheap on line and fit 226 models of Polaris

http://www.polarispartsplus.com/pages/O ... /3083894/1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CJF]

Current plan is to try out some lines I got off ebay this week for $10....should get them sometime next week. If they don't work out, will try out the Polaris option. Thanks for offering up the idea...maybe breaking new ground in the t500 world with that one.

[tz375]

No worries Chris.

I have been thinking about getting some Polaris check valves to see if they are useful for repairs. The 500 system is so simple though that I'd try it in a heart beat. You still need a non check valve for the pump end too and check which way it is designed to flow. It may be set up to work in the other direction

[CJF]

Thanks for the info on the banjo bolt size. To use the setup Richard is suggesting, i would need that banjo for the pump side of the line, so looks like everything could be obtained from a Polaris dealer.

You are right about the air bubbles being the issue. I have since learned that I have a leaking oil line check valve. I don't know that the check valve is causing an air leak, but may be contributing. At the very least, it confirmed why I was getting a lot more oil burn on startup on the left side exhaust, so glad I found it.

I'll check the steps you provided from the service manual. Appreciate the info.

[jabcb]

T500 pump disassembled:

Fitting of differential plunger housing on pump body, there is a rubber O ring that seals this to the pump body, sometimes dries up and cracks. Easily replaced.

Which o-ring are you referring to?

[CJF]

Dos anyone have a good source for the o-rings called for in the diagram?

[jabcb]

Just got the 1.8x10 & 2x12.5 o-rings at the http://www.theoringstore.com

Am still looking for 1.8x20 o-ring.

[diamondj]

I wonder if you could get away with using a 2 x 20 O-ring? McMaster has them in Buna and Viton Fluoroelastomer:

http://www.mcmaster.com

Buna - 9262K2186

Viton - 9263K186

Maybe the softer Buna O-rings could squish into place?

Jim

[CJF]

Hey Bloop, can you share where you ended up sourcing the parts them from?

On the oil line/check valve front, I received my ebay purchased used oil lines. Both of them had bad oil check valves....are you kidding me!!!!!! Guess this was a bad design from the start. Figures one of the few things that was badly designed on this engine is now almost impossible to find new as a replacement.

It is now time to try out Richard's replacement idea for the check valves. I ordered a couple Polaris snowmobile check valves and should have them by the end of the week...hoping they are 6MM. Also hoping they have PSI cracking specs similar to the Suzuki oem valves. That is a lot of hope...guess I am not out much money if they don't work and can always resell them. If they look like they might work, I may pick up a used Mikuni oil injection pump that has banjos leading from the pump to the lines. Pretty sure they are 6MM and contain a check valve that allows flow toward the lines to the cylinders. This idea just may work ....we'll see.....

[CJF]

Thanks for the info Fred. Look forward to hearing any updates you have.

I received the two Polaris check valves today. Good news...they are 6MM, so the stock Suzuki banjo bolts will work. The banjo portion is a little thicker between the two washers, but not so thick that the stock bajo bolts can't be used.

I need to find the right size clear hose (think is it 1/8 or something real small) and waiting on the Mikuni pump check valve (the one coming from the pump) to arrive. I Don't have anything to check the cracking PSI, so i think I may put a different color 2 stroke oil on the lines before installing and then watch to make sure the oil is flowing when the bike is running. I'll leave the stock line on one side and try these on the other and compare. I have seen a few options on a kawasaki 2 stroke forum to test the cracking psi, but I don't have a lot of extra time right now to fabricate a tool that will help perform the test. If anyone has a simple idea on how to test it off the bike, please let me know.

[CJF]

I received the used Mikuni oil pump off a 1985 ski Doo(ebay for $15). It has the 2 banjo's coming off the pump that I need for the oil line setup. The banjo's are 6MM and should work well with the stock T500 bolts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400340856549?ss ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The outlet of the banjo's where the line attaches is slightly small diameter than the Polaris check valve ends, but hoping I can use the same size hose to fit both. I still need to get the hose, a 2 into 1 fitting and some small lightweight hose clamps.

[CJF]

Made up the new lines. I'm using 1/8 tygon tube, Polaris check valves, y splitter and the original banjo from the old line to attach to the pump all clamped down using some stainless crimp clamps. I was all ready test them out, but I realized there is an outlet on the pump with stripped threads! Rather than junking the pump, I tried putting in a thread insert.

Needed to be real careful not to put metal shavings into the pump. I used a technique I saw for putting spark plug inserts into an engine while it is still together. I stuffed oil soaked rag into the hole of the pump. Drilled out the hole slowly using a lot of grease on the drill bit to catch shavings. I did the same with the tap and cleaned out the hole each time with a pick. I then installed the insert and pulled out the rag being careful to pull out any remaining shavings with it. I then cleaned it out real well with spray cleaner.

I decided to rebuild the pump while I am at it...waiting on some parts now.

[diamondj]

Looks good! Do you have any concerns with uneven flow of oil to one side of the crankcase vs the other given the different ID's of the tubing?

Jim