GT500 oil leak.
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- GT500Andy
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The early T500 engines used brass inserts for the bearing holders instead of the steel ones. It would stand to reason the softer brass will be more forgiving than the later steel versions.
Thanks for the tip about the edge around the oil feed holes Stu, its obviously an issue on some engine cases.
Thanks for the tip about the edge around the oil feed holes Stu, its obviously an issue on some engine cases.
Two strokes, its just that simple.
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Understand, I'm not claiming that Andy has the same problem I had. But those pictures of his leak look exactly like mine did. I was in the process of assembling the engine for the third time when my finger caught some roughness on that bearing. A happy accident.Suzsmokeyallan wrote:The early T500 engines used brass inserts for the bearing holders instead of the steel ones. It would stand to reason the softer brass will be more forgiving than the later steel versions.
Thanks for the tip about the edge around the oil feed holes Stu, its obviously an issue on some engine cases.

Stu
- GT500Andy
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Hi just finished the pressure and vacuum test. Result: leaking between ignition side bearing and the lower casing at 12 o’clock just like you said Stu. You could hear it hissing must be in the area of the dowel pin? Going to strip down the engine and do a good investigation
Many thanks for your input
Andy
Many thanks for your input
Andy

- Suzsmokeyallan
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Andy before you touch the section where the leak is can you post some close up pics so we can see how the area looks..
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- GT500Andy
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The leak is at the top. The locating pin is on the bottom. I realize the picture makes it appear it's leaking at the bottom, but it's just running around the OD of the bearing and puddling at the bottom.tz375 wrote:As I suggested earlier, there's a possibility that the bearing is sitting high on the locating pin. It's worth trying a feeler gauge between the bearing outer sleeve and the crankcase to measure the gap there.
Stu
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Heres a photo of what the top case half on the left side looks like.


Two strokes, its just that simple.
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76 Suz GT750
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88 Hon CR500
93 Hon CBR900RR
98 Suz GSF1200x3
15 Kaw Ninja H2
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69 Suz T500
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- tz375
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If the leak is from the top then that issue is not because of the pin. A longer than stock pin or a pin that isn't fully seated will lift the whole bearing (and sleeve) and push it hard against the bearing saddle in the upper case half.
There are a few conditions that would result in a leak at teh top.
Bearing OD smaller than the saddle diameter
Bearing OD larger than the saddle so that it cannot seat correctly
Raised metal holding the bearing off the surface
Gouges in the saddle allowing oil to pass out.
There's probably more that don't come to mind, like the crankcase expanding away from the steel bearing when teh motor gets hot.
The motor needs to be stripped and inspected. I like Stu's idea of using fingers to feel for rough spots. Fingers can detect surface imperfections of less than 1 thousandth of an inch.
I'd start by cleaning the case halves and inspecting the joining surfaces. I'd countersink all the stud/bolt holes and use a clean new fine file to cross file the mating surfaces gently to identify and remove any high spots.
You can use bearing blue to see how well the case halves mate.
Then I'd smear some bearing blue on the main bearings and lightly assemble the cases with the crank in place. Strip it again and look at the blue to see where the bearings are contacting the saddles.
When you are happy with all the above, use new O rings around the bearing outer sleeves and reassemble with a smear of Hylomar on the case halves.
When you slip the new O rings onto those bearing outers, check that they are proud of the surface. It is quite possible that they were re-machined to take a thicker O ring and stock rings may be too thin to seal.
There are a few conditions that would result in a leak at teh top.
Bearing OD smaller than the saddle diameter
Bearing OD larger than the saddle so that it cannot seat correctly
Raised metal holding the bearing off the surface
Gouges in the saddle allowing oil to pass out.
There's probably more that don't come to mind, like the crankcase expanding away from the steel bearing when teh motor gets hot.
The motor needs to be stripped and inspected. I like Stu's idea of using fingers to feel for rough spots. Fingers can detect surface imperfections of less than 1 thousandth of an inch.
I'd start by cleaning the case halves and inspecting the joining surfaces. I'd countersink all the stud/bolt holes and use a clean new fine file to cross file the mating surfaces gently to identify and remove any high spots.
You can use bearing blue to see how well the case halves mate.
Then I'd smear some bearing blue on the main bearings and lightly assemble the cases with the crank in place. Strip it again and look at the blue to see where the bearings are contacting the saddles.
When you are happy with all the above, use new O rings around the bearing outer sleeves and reassemble with a smear of Hylomar on the case halves.
When you slip the new O rings onto those bearing outers, check that they are proud of the surface. It is quite possible that they were re-machined to take a thicker O ring and stock rings may be too thin to seal.
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TZ,
You may have been right on in your previous post. I watched Andy's video. Turns out the leak is at 6 0'clock, not 12, and it's quite a bad leak. We can take guesses all night long, but a strip and careful inspection is the only way to reveal the cause. I like your idea of deburring all holes, and I'd even pull the knock pins to do those holes as well.
Stu
You may have been right on in your previous post. I watched Andy's video. Turns out the leak is at 6 0'clock, not 12, and it's quite a bad leak. We can take guesses all night long, but a strip and careful inspection is the only way to reveal the cause. I like your idea of deburring all holes, and I'd even pull the knock pins to do those holes as well.
Stu
- tz375
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Stu,
I agree 100% about the need to strip clan and inspect. Before it comes apart, it might be an idea to slip a feeler gauge in to the gap between the bearing and teh case to get an idea of the thickness of the gap.
It sounds like it is only a few thou, and it would be hard to measure the height of the pin versus the depth of the hole in the bearing, but that looks like it could be an issue.
I agree 100% about the need to strip clan and inspect. Before it comes apart, it might be an idea to slip a feeler gauge in to the gap between the bearing and teh case to get an idea of the thickness of the gap.
It sounds like it is only a few thou, and it would be hard to measure the height of the pin versus the depth of the hole in the bearing, but that looks like it could be an issue.
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Andy,tz375 wrote:Stu,
I agree 100% about the need to strip clan and inspect. Before it comes apart, it might be an idea to slip a feeler gauge in to the gap between the bearing and teh case to get an idea of the thickness of the gap.
It sounds like it is only a few thou, and it would be hard to measure the height of the pin versus the depth of the hole in the bearing, but that looks like it could be an issue.
If you can slip a feeler of any thickness between the bearing and case, then I'd say you have a major issue. I have a couple of spare cases here with pins that I could measure the pin and hole if you need dimensions.
Stu
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