gt750 cyls.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Forgot to mention - it is 7/16ths threaded rod on the puller we use here.

Unless you are really unlucky it should pull off OK. In the past couple of weeks I've pulled off three sets of barrels using the puller we share here in Calgary - lots of penetrating oil, slow and easy on the torquing and possibly a little bit of luck !

Let us know how it goes !

[derek]

i have the worst luck in the world man.. if it can go wrong, something will ensure it does go wrong but determination usually wins over

[Buffalo-guy]

i have the worst luck in the world man.. if it can go wrong, something will ensure it does go wrong but determination usually wins over

Derek. Patience young grasshopper, patience!!

[Suzsmokeyallan]

You can put all the wonder goo you want, it will not penetrate the really fused solid stuff.
Blaster, WD40, lighter fluid, brake fluid, gasoline, you name it, nothing seems to be able to ease its way by the thick corrosion.
Dave had his barrel sitting with all sorts of things in it for months stuck to the case studs and when it came up those studs were still dry and rusty.
I had mine sitting with all manner of stuff for a few weeks and it did the same thing, once it moved the studs came up dry at the lower sections.
Its amazing how when the barrel was coming up and the fluid was in the holes it still stayed dry on the lower studs till the very last moment when it was finally able to seep past.
This tells me the fusion is not only a tight fit its also nearly impervious to any fluids.
I used a high grade bolt used for wall expansion devices for my 1/2 inch puller plate and they were a 10x1.25 metric pitch.

[pjmcburney]

On Gunnar's page, he shows how to use a GT750 head as a puller. I have used this method with success. Lane

Me too...


I'd be very surprised if damage could be done to a head using it as a puller.

Using fine-pitch (e.g. 10x1.25mm) rod and nuts, adequately sized pressure plates/washers, spacers and washers on the 8mm attachment bolts and done methodically and carefully, the stresses on the actual head aren't too bad.
Turning each rod (say) an eighth of a turn each time only imparts movement of fractions of a millimetre at a time to the head itself, which is easily catered for by the flexibility of the alloy.

I've used a head as a puller plate on a couple of engines and not had any dramas.
In fact I'm now using that same head on the bike - it turned out it was the only one in my collection that hadn't been skimmed. It was flat and straight (I checked) and works fine on my stock motor, no leaks or cracks.

All caveats apply of course - I'm not saying you can't break a head, but if you use common sense you shouldn't go wrong.


Cheers
Paul

[tz375]

The corrosion is hard to remove that's true which is why heat helps a lot as does the up and down motion rather than just trying to drag it off in one direction.

On one of mine I found that the puller plate pulled the threads out of the head. It's a heck of a lot of force to apply to how many 6 or so 8mm bolt holes.

That's why I won't use a puller plate. The factory tool was a set of large bolts drilled and tapped down the center. They supplied the tap to cut a thread in each of the 11 sleeve nut holes. The "fat bolt" threaded into each sleeve tube and smaller bolts then threaded into them to push the barrel off.

If you have access to a lathe, they are easy to make and a better solution than a thick plate, but if a plate works for you great. If not, try the factory method.

[Suzukidave]

I also made up a puller system like that

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Yes that works if your castings are small enough to allow for full threading. Some of the holes are a bit too big on some barrels and you dont get enough thread cut so it pulls the larger bolt up.

[derek]

i started on my plate last night but it got late. ill be finishing it up today and hopefully get to try it out pretty soon. ill post pics when its done.

[tz375]

That's interesting. So far I have not found a barrel where the sleeve nut holes were too large, but that's a small sample size.

I'll watch out for that if/when I have to do another barrel.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Looking back through this thread I just noticed that although Gunnar's site was mentioned, the link to his puller solution wasn't given. Just for completeness - its here.

[derek]

wow that way looks much easier to make but i am afraid that it would pull the threads out of the jugs.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Derek - I was curious whether you had success getting the barrels off ?

[Wayne Meuir]

There was a thread a couple of years back where a University Engineering class or something like that did a study on penetrants and found that the best penetrating fluid they could come up with was a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Tranny Fluid. I used it on my H2 cylinders with a lot of heat and it got them to come loose eventually. I had used PB Blaster/heat for a month prior to that with no success. It took three days using the Acetone/Tranny Fluid mix. Down side is that you need to use a respirator while working with the Acetone and you need to pour the mix in and then cover it while it is soaking so the acetone won't evaporate. I used saran wrap to cover it.

Wayne

[derek]

Derek - I was curious whether you had success getting the barrels off ?

we made the plate using 1/4" steel and welded the nuts onto it. bolted it to the jugs and started turning. im not much of a welder so my friend did it for me. but one by one the nuts busted off the plate till we only had a couple left, then the plate started to bend and flex so i quit before i messed something up. so back to the drawing board. ill update when i get it off. other projects are creeping up in the way though.