Splant wrote:Yes happy how it's going so far ,just waiting on the seals from u.s. £21 ,oem. No didn't get the pawl spring ,just the big one as mine was rusty in parts I,ll try amend order before they send them to include the small one and pin, I,d recommend everyone buy a press its been so useful .
I don't remember if the center seals have 'tabs' on them or not like the outboard seals but if so, check to see that they are not blocking the oil ports in the center bearing. May not even be an issue but I just don't remember and probably overthinking it.
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GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE
Crank rebuild went ok no problems i seemed lucky to stop pressing at just the right time and managed line my scribe marks up after around ten times .trueing it only took 4 goes as well .Only bad part was when I went to put the gear on the end of the crank and it obviously wouldn't fit on the tapered end ,arghhhhh I'd put the crank in wrong way round . Bet no ones split the cases as quick as I did after I saw that!
Now I'm wondering if I put the centre bearing in the right way round ! I did Mark which side was which but forgot to check the oilways lined up before joining the cases ,and it's nearly starting up time again ,except I'm waiting for a woodruff key in the post as I've forgot where I safely put the original. I've also ordered set of clutch springs as 1 had vanished off the face of the earth ,only to turn up jammed on a cylinder head fin! If the centre bearings in wrong way round how long do you think it will last before it seizes? I,ll certainly be doing some serious praying before hand.
Yes did that the centre ones off the gear oil though ,there is a drain bolt that goes to these gallery's that I filled and it kept filling hopefully getting to the centre bearing ,but could have been just going to the gearbox alone. Fingers crossed ,let you all know if it seizes.
hi splant, i presume the centre bearing is similar to the gt250 ramair setup? does it sit on a little peg? if it's in the wrong way round it won't sit on the peg as they are offset. if it doesn't sit on a peg, i can't see why there is a right or wrong way round, as long as the gap between the bearing and the oilseal lines up with the gearbox feed.
cheers, dd.
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
I wish it was ,but the pegs in the centre that's why you can put th e crank in either way,if you look at t500 crankshafts on eBay you see the oil holes wouldn't like up with the galleries if on the wrong way,like I say I did Mark the bearing but didn't double check .I've no idea how long it would last with no oil circulating through it ,certainly won t be going further than pushing distance for the first 20 miles.
hate to say it, but if it was me i'd strip it
for the sake of a couple of hours work is it worth wrecking a newly built engine?
you aren't the first and you won't be the last to do it
cheers, dd.
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
I know what you mean but i didn't want to strip it a third time , I got it started today and have done about 2 miles, so far so good only took it to 5000rpm and it didn't vibrate as much as I expected reading the roadtests in magazines ,ticked over good so i think I've got away with it,phewww! Front brakes atrocious though ,I don't understand how my yam yr5 drums so good yet this and a h1 i had have no bite to them.
Can't comment on the bearings, but I've had issues in the past with the front brake.
What make of shoes do you have in there? I installed no name stuff when I first recommissioned the bike. With a new cable, they were still awful. I "radiused" the pads and they improved a bit.
I've now got new EBC shoes and a Suzuki OEM cable and with cleaned and greased pivots - the brakes are satisfactory. I expect them to improve further as the shoes bed in over the next few '000 miles, if they don't I'll do the "radiusing" thing again
Sometimes poor drum brake performance is caused by the drum changing shape over time and going oval. This can be rectified by having it milled at an engineering shop on a lathe https://youtu.be/qvLvoNMhbG8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also you can send your brake shoes to have bespoke linings fitted. I did this with fantastic results
