Coyote wrote:That wrench looks like the ticket. I wonder where to get one? Both ends 14mm with different dog leg angle?
I got mine from eBay, it was a set of 3 in various sizes. Just did a quick check and there's plenty of options on there, both individual wrenches and sets.
On mine, one end is 13mm, the other 14mm. I use it with another 14mm wrench, alternating between them so I can turn / tighten the nut a few degrees with each.
1976 GT380 - wounded by me, and sold on
2006 SV650S - killed by a patch of diesel and a kerb in Feb 2019
2017 SV650 AL7 - naked and unashamed
Well, I sweat my a** off, but I now have the right cylinder on the bench. Now if I can just figure out how to do all these chamfers, I'll be good to go on to the next.
Would I be correct by assuming that the horizontal edges are more critical than the vertical edges? Seems logical to me, but what do I know?
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
I declare this impossible. I had a little luck with a triangular carbide lathe insert held with a pair of needle nose vise-grips. 2 problems there though. 1: to put enough pressure to cut, the insert wants to turn no matter how tight you get the vise-grips. 2: it's way too easy to slip and gouge the bore. I definitely bit off more than I can chew. I would pay $100 for each cylinder to have this done right. There just isn't any room.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
You could call Wedman Motorsports in OKC and see what they would charge. They bored some cylinders for me IIRC 75 per and it included chamfering the ports.
Or a Dremmel turned down low with an abrasive wheel - but keep it in check.
You must be talking about one of those flex cable jobs. I don't have one of those. All I have is a Dremel type motor (Dayton - WW Grainger). I have a ton of different style stones on 1/8 shanks, but my old motor pretty much fills the hole. Maybe it's time for an upgrade?
I have all kinds if small files, but they are useless. If you go at it from the outside, you can't get any angle on it and there is no outside on the transfer ports. Approaching from the inside, there is no room to stroke it. (Easy now ) I have a round stone, but it's the same situation of no room to move it.
So I'm thinking that any chamfer at all is better than what I had.
This is what I have to work with. The carbide chip in the needle nose vise-grips works fair. The problem with that is it take a lot of pressure to cut. The pressure makes the carbide turn no matter how hard you grab it because it's hard and slick. I'm thinking of cutting off the lathe de-burr tool (the one below the vise-grips) and just using the very tip in the vise-grips. The material is high speed steel (tool steel).
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
That's it! I ordered a pencil grinder. Body is only 5/8 dia. The real want is a right angle pencil grinder, but they are 10-20 times the money. So I'm getting this one. This should definitely take the misery out of the job. http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-2 ... J21KE99V00" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
I think (hoping) I can do those too with the correctly angled stone. I have dressing sticks and can shape the stones ant way I want. However, most of the stones I own are too small in diameter. I have larger ones, but they are 1/4 shank.
I realize this tool is very fast, but from what I read, you can throttle it down and it will hold that setting. One of the reviews on a similar pencil grinder says "it's great for porting 2 stoke motors". That kind of sold me. This grinder is not top of the line by a long shot, but there are cheaper ones as well. This could be considered low end, but it got good reviews. I also figured I won't use it much when this job is done. I have 1/4 collet die grinders in both straight and right angle. I use those all the time, but they are a little too bulky to use them here.
Here's a couple I did with the scraper method. Not very large, but if you compare it to the undone edge it might be big enough. .When I flipped it over to do the other edge, I was unable to move the tool.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
WooHoo! I got all the base nuts off. 3 moves of the wrench for each1/6 turn. Soaking wet with sweat. Putting those front 4 back on should be worse than getting them off. Cylinders still in place but ready to pull.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Try some cloth backed sand paper torn in narrow strips, bass it thru the ports and out the bottom.
Won't that give me a radius? Is a radius as good (or better) than a chamfer? I have a full roll of 1 1/2 wide Norton cloth back 180 grit. Easy to tear into strips.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.