GT 380 Cylinder base nuts

[CumbriaSuzuki]

Hi,

Anyone know how to torque down the cylinder base nuts (GT 380) when all you can get in there is a spanner?
I've only got the usual socket type torque wrench, which won't fit

Cheers

[yeadon_m]

Martin,
By hand I'm afraid! get a 'feel' for the torque once set on an accessible head nut as I believe that's the same (14lb ft?) - then transfer that 'feel' to the same spanner when wrenching the base nuts.
Its not so critical provided you've done the base nuts up reasonably evenly by feel and they are at least as tight as the head nuts. They won't break easily!
Cheers,
Mike

[markush]

Hi!
I do it with this "special" torque wrench.
The preset torque at the wrench
must be reduced by about 1/3 due to the extension.

[jabcb]

Good info on using an extension/adapter: http://www.torqwrench.com/Info/extens.php

Use an extension/adaptor like this one from Motion Pro:

[CumbriaSuzuki]

Thanks chaps, all good info. I was going to use the touchy-feely method as I couldn't think of anything else but that extension method is pretty ingenious

[Craig380]

Those base nuts are one of the biggest pains in the arse with the 380 (and 550), especially when the engine is in the frame. I used to just tighten them as much as I could using a conventional ring spanner.

It's worth checking them again after 1000 / 1500 miles or so, to make sure they are all snug, as they will settle a little. But after that they won't loosen again.

[yeadon_m]

+1 on that, Craig. There are a couple on the front of the mounted 550 motor that almost defy turning even a 1/16th. I have a ratchet ring spanner with a flexihead and even using that, one nut won't move far enough to click, because of the frame. Its slow work.
Mike

[markush]

To re-tighten the nuts with a built-in motor is nor reasonable.
But to remove them completely, for example to pull a cylinder, I always remove the engine from the frame. I'm not a masochist.

[jabcb]

+1 on that, Craig. There are a couple on the front of the mounted 550 motor that almost defy turning even a 1/16th. I have a ratchet ring spanner with a flexihead and even using that, one nut won't move far enough to click, because of the frame. Its slow work.
Mike

I just upgraded my ratchets from Craftsman to pricey Snap-on, which increment with 5 degree rotation.
Ratchet spanners that increment at 5 degrees are also available.

Some tools are worth spending extra $$$ to get the good stuff.
But you don’t need to get a pro brand like Snap-on — there are some reasonably priced brands that increment with 5 degrees.
(I got the Snap-on ratchets so my mechanic helper/ friend would stop complaining about my Craftsman ratchets.)

[Vintageman]

I'll be surprised of you get both the wrench and torque wrench in position with motor in frame and carbs and exhaust attached.

My arm has a built in torque setting that clicks once the desired force is reached... or is that my elbow arthritis clicking.

You could take engine out My advice is practice tightening a nut and bolt by hand to get a feel for what the force is like. We are very sensitive creatures and can handle that range of torque relatively accurately.