No braking category so hope this is a reasonable place to post this...
Any top tip from gurus of the 2LS on a T500 on the correct way to set it up for best braking perfromance (short of sticking a disk front end on that is).
Setting up T500 2LS front brakes
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akendall1966
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- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T500_MKIII
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tricky1962
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Re: Setting up T500 2LS front brakes
Not a guru by any means, but the following has got me through the last three MOTs and I've not nudged a car's bumper yet.
I have:-
1. Adjusted the link rod between the front and rear shoes such that the front applies just before the rears. Back it off so that only the front applies first by hand, then wind it on until the back starts to grip, then wind it off a fraction. I hope that makes sense.
2. Greased the pivots and lubed the cable with 3 in 1. (Cable lubing actually made the biggest difference to brake performace and that was with a new Suzuki cable)
3. Ensured that at maximum brake lever pressure, the pivot is at less than 90° to the cable.
4. Radiused (radiussed??) the shoes. This means removing the high spots from the shoes. To do this, first always remember to apply the front brake before tightening the front wheel spindle.
Remove the front wheel and rub white chalk all over the front shoes. Replace as above, spin the wheel and lightly apply the brakes. Remove the front wheel.
The chalk will have been removed from where the shoes have contacted the drum. These are the high spots. Sand or lightly file the clean areas, chalk and repeat.
Once all the chalk is removed on a light application of the brakes, the pads have been "radiussed".
Still crap braking, but the best I could manage.
I still can't squeal the front tyre in the dry (or wet obviously)
I've heard EBC shoes are good, but not tried them yet
I have:-
1. Adjusted the link rod between the front and rear shoes such that the front applies just before the rears. Back it off so that only the front applies first by hand, then wind it on until the back starts to grip, then wind it off a fraction. I hope that makes sense.
2. Greased the pivots and lubed the cable with 3 in 1. (Cable lubing actually made the biggest difference to brake performace and that was with a new Suzuki cable)
3. Ensured that at maximum brake lever pressure, the pivot is at less than 90° to the cable.
4. Radiused (radiussed??) the shoes. This means removing the high spots from the shoes. To do this, first always remember to apply the front brake before tightening the front wheel spindle.
Remove the front wheel and rub white chalk all over the front shoes. Replace as above, spin the wheel and lightly apply the brakes. Remove the front wheel.
The chalk will have been removed from where the shoes have contacted the drum. These are the high spots. Sand or lightly file the clean areas, chalk and repeat.
Once all the chalk is removed on a light application of the brakes, the pads have been "radiussed".
Still crap braking, but the best I could manage.
I still can't squeal the front tyre in the dry (or wet obviously)
I've heard EBC shoes are good, but not tried them yet
