Brake Bleeding

[Coyote]

Anyone ever use a suction syringe to bleed brakes? I have been looking at them on Amazon. I already own a Mighty-Vac that does a pretty decent job, but still leaves a little air behind. You still need to use the old pump up, open / close method the expel the last little bit.
The bike shop sold me a speed bleeder. After researching on Google, I found out you can't use them on a new empty brake setup as there is not enough pressure to operate the valve in the bleeder. You must first use the conventional method till the line(s) are full. Then you remove the standard bleeder and replace it with the speed bleeder. I have visions of paint being erased in the interim. I think I'll just leave the old standard bleeder in the caliper.

[tz375]

I tried MitiVac a few times with mixed results. On a recent rebuild (non Suzuki) I grabbed a pair of Venhill Bleeder Banjo Bolts off ebay and that got the air out of the mater cylinder/hose joint.

I have used aluminum bleed type banjo bolts but needed an OEM type finish so I went with chrome. They look good and work well.

[tj2]

I used a 60ml gastric syringe to bleed my GT250M front brake, fitted new line, then screwed it into bleed nipple hole applied vac then pump........job done 5 mins !

Ps Hi from new user/Lurker

[Craig380]

When I put a Bandit master cylinder on mine a couple of years back, I just opened the bleed nipple on the caliper, attached a 3-foot length of clean, clear hose and sucked using lung power until brake fluid was a few inches from my lips ... then put my thumb over the end and put the end in a jar with an inch of fluid in the bottom, and pumped the lever a few more times. Closed the nipple and the lever was pretty solid.

Then left the bike on the side-stand overnight with the handlebars turned left (so the m/c piston is pointing downward a little) and left the cap loose. Next morning, any small air bubbles in the line have risen all the way up ... just squeeze the lever real slow and gentle to move the m/c piston slightly, and got a couple of tiny air bubbles pop out of the "return" hole in the reservoir. Rock solid lever, the brake's all bled through.

[sfront]

The syringe method works great but no vacuum is required.
Even from completely empty, brand new.
Leave the cap off the master cylinder, make sure the lever is all the way open.
Fill the syringe up with brake fluid.
I use EFD syringes and just the plastic tip, no needle.
Take the bleeder out of the caliper.
Put the syringe in the bleeder port and inject brake fluid upward into the master cylinder.
Air floats upwards, makes sense right?!
Continue until the master cylinder is about a third of the way full.
Have the bleeder handy, remove the syringe and let just a tiny bit of fluid flow out.
Screw the bleeder in. Done.
Nine out of ten times you're finished.
There's always the odd case where the bleeder isn't the highest point
on the caliper and one or two pump and release steps are required.

[Coyote]

Please clarify. What is an EFD syringe?

[pearljam724]

I never felt a need to buy unnecessary tools to bleed brakes. Other than clear hoses for nipples. The key to getting the last bit of air remaining. Is cracking the banjo bolt on the mc once the calipers are bleed thoroughly. Learned that from Richard. Works like a charm.

[sfront]

EFD is just a brand name. They are commercial syringes used for adhesive application in a production environment. Any 30 cc syringe will work fine. Pick one up at your local Walgreens/ CVS for less than a buck. I nice turkey baster would probably work too. Anything that will hold and force fluid (without introducing air) can be made to work.