Getting nearer to putting my 1971 GT380 back together.
I have had all the engine castings Aquia-blasted and they do look much better for it.
Two things please.
I like to know if the main crankcase were lacquered or just bear metal.
The engine side covers were panted with that gunmetal finish.
What are your views on re painting. Or polishing then lacquer. I have never lacquered my Brit bike covers and they just require a polish from time to time.
Do the Suzuki coves need a lacquer or will a polish keep them in nice condition
Thanks for the help
Bill Dag.
Engine Finishes. To Lacquer or not to Lacquer.
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- Willgo
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- malky
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Re: Engine Finishes. To Lacquer or not to Lacquer.
the main crankcases are bare metal,the side covers were originaly lightly polished and lacquered from factory I prefer to polish mine to a chrome-like finish and then a quick blast with solvol followed by a good quality wax polish every now and again keeps them looking good - I did try a couple of coats of clear lacquer once but wasnt to pleased with the finish as it doesnt seem to last and then its a bugger to get off to re-polish
mal
mal
- Rustygt550
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Re: Engine Finishes. To Lacquer or not to Lacquer.
I have the same problem myself, Ive been collecting parts for my 73 550K restoration. I have collected all the side cases in the Gun metal finish (all new old stock) apart from the clutch cover & will have to see if anyone can repolish & paint in gun metal my orginal cover
- Willgo
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Re: Engine Finishes. To Lacquer or not to Lacquer.
Thanks for the crankcase info.
I thank I go with a buff up and the Solvol for the covers,
I was concerned the alloy might not stand the weather.
I know it’s not "as original" but it’s not much of a job to slip them off if do decide to have them panted.
By the way I used NitroMores paint striper for removing the old lacquer on the covers, brake back plates and fork legs work fine.
Regards Bill Dag
I thank I go with a buff up and the Solvol for the covers,
I was concerned the alloy might not stand the weather.
I know it’s not "as original" but it’s not much of a job to slip them off if do decide to have them panted.
By the way I used NitroMores paint striper for removing the old lacquer on the covers, brake back plates and fork legs work fine.
Regards Bill Dag
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Re: Engine Finishes. To Lacquer or not to Lacquer.
i use a product from oreily auto parts called tal-strip in a white can, i sprayed it on left it over night.
next morning i washed it of with warm water all clear coat gone, then i put a little white jewelers rouge on my 4inch buffer and in 10 mins had shiny cases, then the trick is get some plain flour in your hand and rub it over the polished part, it soakes up the black residue.
a quick buff with a clean soft cloth and over, you can use red jewlers rouge first and then white. white is a much finer rouge that realy shines, from washing of my case to chrome like shine 30 mins. the flour trick is what tank polishers use in a truck polishing shop when they polish aluminum fuel tanks. this has worked for me for the last 12 years or so just so happens i was also stripping a pair of r5 forks to polish yesterday, took no time at all now they shine
next morning i washed it of with warm water all clear coat gone, then i put a little white jewelers rouge on my 4inch buffer and in 10 mins had shiny cases, then the trick is get some plain flour in your hand and rub it over the polished part, it soakes up the black residue.
a quick buff with a clean soft cloth and over, you can use red jewlers rouge first and then white. white is a much finer rouge that realy shines, from washing of my case to chrome like shine 30 mins. the flour trick is what tank polishers use in a truck polishing shop when they polish aluminum fuel tanks. this has worked for me for the last 12 years or so just so happens i was also stripping a pair of r5 forks to polish yesterday, took no time at all now they shine