Saturday morning saw the early risers off to Jasper for breakfast while Allan and I packed up our stuff to get ready for the next leg of OUR trip. The four other guys were staying in Jasper for another night and were doing day rides around the area. Allan and I, however, had a different agenda.
We finally made it into Jasper for breakfast and gas. At the restaurant we talked to 2 gents who were from the San Francisco area, IIRC, on a couple of RENTED 1200GS Beemers. They were on a 3 month tour of North America, motelling it all the way!!! Who says the economy is bad ??
Allan and I said our goodbyes to the rest of the guys and headed off for Tete Jaune Cache where the road splits up......Highway 16 goes off northwesterly eventually ending up in Prince Rupert on the Pacific coast. Highway 5, however, heads south to Kamloops, our next destination. We stopped for the obligatory pics at the Mount Robson park sign with the big mountain goat. This is the only mountain goat we saw on the trip because they’re quite shy/reclusive animals and are seldom found near any highway.
The weather was glorious and we stopped along the way for shots of Mount Robson which is the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. On down Highway 5 which is the second boringest road in BC, IMO, although a lot of the scenery is quite nice. The road itself is a two laner which is totally unchallenging and just has to be ridden on to get anywhere interesting. A gas stop or two along the way and FINALLY we make it to Kamloops in the late afternoon with some decently hot temps (~+30*C or so). A bite to eat, a discussion about the evening’s stopping point, some more fuel and we’re off. I had been trying to convince Allan that he owed it to himself to ride the old Trans Canada Highway route down through Hell’s Canyon with its road tunnels and spectacular scenery and the actual Hell’s Gate site where the Fraser River roars through a very narrow gap way below the highway......so this is the way we headed, thus avoiding the Coquihalla Highway which, IMO, is definitely THE boringest road in all of BC.....although I have to admit I haven’t ridden ALL the roads in BC....yet.
We got into a government campground just west of Savona and got set up for the evening. Neither of us had quite digested our late afternoon meal and a total fire ban was in effect so cooking would have been out of the question anyway. Allan messed around with the Buffalo a bit and I cruised around the campground to scope things out. There were a LOT of locals from Kamloops (this was Saturday night, remember) with just a few transients like us....and NO other bikes. I did notice, however, that the Canadian National railway main line was about a half mile across the lake to the north of us and the Canadian Pacific railway main line was on our side of the lake about a half mile south of us.
Now trains are one of my fascinations in life, coming from a railway town like I do.....but after 11:00 in the evening TWO main line tracks within one mile are a little much, IMO......and the railways run on a 24 hour schedule, of course. I swear I heard every train on both lines that passed during the night.
To add insult to injury, a guy not very far from us had some CDs playing on his stereo that had to be the WORST bar band music ever made.....local bands from the sound of it doing “covers” of a whole bunch of groups. Fortunately campground rules forced him to shut down at 11:00 PM......just in time for the wind to die down so it became easier for the sounds of the 100 car freight trains to disturb my slumbers. This was pretty much the nadir of our camping/sleeping experiences for 9 days, IMO.
Sunday morning we rode west to Cache Creek and stopped for gas and breakfast. Cache Creek is a town that is pretty much dead because the Coquihalla Highway now gets all the through traffic to/from the coast because it’s MUCH faster than the older route.
In its heyday Cache Creek was a VERY busy place. It’s always smokin’ hot in the summer there and the many service stations did a land-office business repairing cars with boiled over rads and burnt out transmissions caused by towing trailers up the Hell’s Canyon road from the coast. Now the service stations are pretty much gone with only 2 left and the independent garages are all closed up. The whole place has the appearance of being on very hard times. Such is the price of “progress”.
We headed for Hell’s Canyon in the glorious late morning sunshine, wanting to get into the cooler Canyon itself before the heat really started to hit around 1 or 2 PM. We stopped along the way for photo ops and finally made it to the Hell’s Gate site for more pics and some cold water. We then continued along down the Canyon through 4 or 5 tunnels of varying length. The scenery is quite spectacular and the history of the canyon is quite interesting. The road CAN be challenging IF you pick up the pace somewhat. There’s not a lot of traffic (which is a good thing) but there are rock walls on the left and the river gorge on the right (which could both be bad things) so a certain amount of caution is necessary. One mistake could be your last.
We finally made it into Hope where the Coquihalla and Trans Canada Highways join together once more for the final hour and a half “race” into Vancouver.
Hope is where we discovered that Allan’s Buffalo had eaten its rectifier last year and also drained the battery so that at this point “she no go no mo”. We had to install a new battery and disconnect the headlight to allow the old girl to make it to Vancouver with only 2 phases of the alternator doing any charging.
This time, however, the Buffalo was running like a trouper, albeit a thirsty trouper (or maybe a thirsty trooper

) and nothing stopped us from heading toward the coast with the usual stream of Sunday traffic racing back into the various cities in the lower mainland of BC.
We successfully dodged all the crazy cage drivers in their RV’s/SUV’s and made it to Allan’s aunt Shirley’s place about 5:00PM. Aunt Shirley is everyone’s idea of a favourite aunt living in a very interesting older house filled with a lifetime of pics and other little knick-knacky treasures. She has two beautiful apple trees and a pear tree in her back yard. She’s quite a woman and her home is an oasis to two weary bike riders after all the heat and traffic. She certainly gets my vote as “Aunt Of The Decade” !!!
More in the next post.....