Lane, the bike runs extremely well. I'm amazed at how well it starts. Cold it takes 1 revolution, warm I swear it can't be more than a 1/2 turn before it's idling. The choke is on for maybe 30 seconds before it idles on it's own. It is without a doubt the easiest starting machine I've ever owned. The brakes suck. My back brake shoes are new OEM from Suzuki and the hub is as new - perfectly cleaned with new bearings and seals yet I have to really step on them to get any real stopping power. I'd say the rear cable activated brake on this bike is the worst of any I've ever owned. My 1970 H1 and the A& Avenger both have cables and they work a lot better. Maybe break-in? The front brakes are not what I'd hoped for in the dry. I'd been told by Allen that wet performance was horrible/non-existent, but I don't have great dry brakes either. I've bled them a couple of times to make sure I've got all the air out.
Power wise, the bike is perfect. I love the flat torque curve and pull - even at 3,000 it's able to pull and gain speed up hills and a shift to 5~6,000 brings on nice passing response. I'm going to like going to Key West on this bike in a few months.
If there are some tips on improved braking, I'd appreciate them shared.
Thanks,
Gordon
1974 GT750 Gear Indicator Question
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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Suzukidave
- Moto GP
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tz375
- Moto GP
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One possibility is to find a disk material with a higher coefficient of friction and replace the disk on the stock carrier. Michael (Mercury) Morse at Vintage Brakes is the guy to talk to.
Pads with higher CoF would also help. MM may have some suggestions or may be able to modify a different set to work in stock calipers.
Another possibility if your brake lines are firm and not much movement at the lever, you could try a smaller diameter master cylinder. It would increase the movement but should feel less wooden.
M/C s are cheap enough to try.
When you find the size you like, modify the stock M/C by sleeving it and using a different piston etc. Start with the chart on Vintage Brakes web site and see what size looks like it fits the sweet spot and go from there.
If you feel you want a larger bore for less lever movement but higher hand pressure, go up in size.
Pads with higher CoF would also help. MM may have some suggestions or may be able to modify a different set to work in stock calipers.
Another possibility if your brake lines are firm and not much movement at the lever, you could try a smaller diameter master cylinder. It would increase the movement but should feel less wooden.
M/C s are cheap enough to try.
When you find the size you like, modify the stock M/C by sleeving it and using a different piston etc. Start with the chart on Vintage Brakes web site and see what size looks like it fits the sweet spot and go from there.
If you feel you want a larger bore for less lever movement but higher hand pressure, go up in size.
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rbond
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
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- Contact:
rear brakes
On my GT500 the rear sucked big time. Found out the arm was on the shaft too far forward, needs to go as far back as possible so the adjuster on the cable turns in just enough for the cotter pin to fit. It was simply at a bad leverage point at first, now the rear works a whole lot better! It does tend to squeal if I really get on it, but the shoes are from Parts-n-more, so I blame it on shoe material. When they wear out, I have some SBS shoes to install.
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pjmcburney
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:20 am
- Country: Australia
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: T20 GT750L RE5A GSX1100S RG500G GSX-R1100N
- Location: QLD
Gordon,ilbikes wrote: The brakes suck. My back brake shoes are new OEM from Suzuki and the hub is as new - perfectly cleaned with new bearings and seals yet I have to really step on them to get any real stopping power. I'd say the rear cable activated brake on this bike is the worst of any I've ever owned. My 1970 H1 and the A& Avenger both have cables and they work a lot better. Maybe break-in? The front brakes are not what I'd hoped for in the dry. I'd been told by Allen that wet performance was horrible/non-existent, but I don't have great dry brakes either. I've bled them a couple of times to make sure I've got all the air out.
If there are some tips on improved braking, I'd appreciate them shared.
Thanks,
Gordon
I fitted braided lines and I think it has made an appreciable difference.
Standard lines, even when new, expand a lot in use.
Now... before you say 'it's not stock', they look very close to stock as they're black (you can get them in any colour you like these days) and are similar in diameter.
You lose the junction half-way down the two caliper lines, but that's one less point of failure anyway.
From 10 feet away I would challenge anyone but the most anal restorer to tell the difference.
This of course doesn't help the fact that the discs themselves are as hard as rocks and are probably the weakest link in the whole shebang as far as getting the brakes to work better - cast iron or an alloy of some kind would work better.
The rear can be made to work quite well even with OEM shoes.
As has already been mentioned, it's to do with lever angles and leverage and they could take a while to bed in properly.
Ensure you have the actuating lever set at least 90 degrees to the backing plate.
Don't forget, unless you've had the shoes arced to the drum, it will take a while to wear the shoes into the correct shape i.e. at the moment you probably only have the edge of each shoe contacting the drum.
Then, as they wear in you'll get more contact and the servo effect will kick in and allow them to work as they should.
Besides... we're dealing with 35 year-old technology here.
Cheers
Paul
