My First Post & My First Buffalo

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:58 am

I'm not a big fan of King and Queen seats, but I'd keep that one for the moment until you one comes along at the sort of price that you want to pay.

I had one recovered a couple of years back and between the cost of the cover and getting a professional to get it just right, I was getting close to the cost of a new seat.

Nah. For now, I'd concentrate on resurrecting the beast and get it running as it is. Put teh pennies and parts away as they come up and either do a progressive restore, or wait until all the parts are there and do it in one swoop.

johnakay · Post by **johnakay** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:01 am

oops wrong button!

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:33 am

Suzsmokeyallan wrote:Yes you should read the manual VERY carefully, ask us tons of questions as we will not get tired of you doing so,, SERIOUSLY...
Heres a little checklist i came up with for you to consider.
Remove the fuel tank petcock and check the three filter screens.
Inspect the tanks innards and clean it out if necessary with some water based rust remover.
Remove the carb rack and clean them throughly and do the air jet mod if its not done already.
Check the float levels and adjust them to spec if necessary and get new bowl gaskets.
Check the six rubber boots on the intake and air cleaner sides of the carbs, if they are hard in any way, get new ones as air leaks will create havoc on you and the engine. Make sure the six metal clamps on them are in good condition
Perform a cylinder compression test and see what figures you get.
Get some new B8ES NGK spark plugs.
Check the points and con..................

Well, I'm finally getting around to ordering some parts, so I'm rereading this thread to see what you guys suggested. What is the "air jet mod"? Also, for compression check, do you have to do it with the electric start or can accurate readings be obtained kicking?

Thanks,
Don

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:06 am

There was a service bulletin to address surging on the GT750. Its bulletin 'GT-36', dated March 11, 1977 and a copy is available from here. Just scroll down to page 5.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:06 pm

To test compression, kicking is fine - just kick enough times until the reading stops rising - typically 5-8 kicks.

Take all three plugs out and hold the throttle wide open. What you hope to see is a similar reading on all three or around 110-120 PSI. Some screw in gauges read higher than others, so don't panic if it's slightly off those levels.

Fit new plugs and check the HT (spark plug) leads. Sometimes the ends get old and crusty. If you have enough length, snip the last 1/4 inch off and screw in a set of three new plug caps from your auto parts store.

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:52 pm

Went to Wally World and got a battery. Starter relay didn't work, so I had to take that apart and clean it. Finally got it turning over. Compression is as follows:

Left: 140psi
Center: 135psi
Right: 135psi

Looks good to me.
Is there a way to check proper function of the oiling system? My Clymer manual isn't Jiving with my bike. The linkage from the carb to the oil pump looks f'd up to me. Anybody have a right side picture showing the linkage?

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 5:21 pm

I posted a mod a while ago that i did to my 76 carb linkage as it was messed up when i got the bike, heres how it looks now.

http://www.motorcycleracer.net/phpBB2/v ... php?t=1826

If theres visible oil in ALL the six lines to the engine, one of the ways you can check flow is by doing the following.
Remove the pump cover and disconnect and plug the CCI oil tank hose from the tank.
Then run the engine at just above idle (2,000 rpm) while holding the oil pump lever fully forward in the full open throttle position.
As the pump delivers the remaining oil at its maximum delivery rate you should soon see the oil in the lines creeping forward in stages with an air space following behind them from the pumps base where the six lines exit from it.
This will at least confirm all six pump outputs are pumping oil into the delivery lines.
Once the air space gets about an inch from the pump base you can then reconnect the line from the CCI tank to the pump and doing the same process as before you should see more oil flowing behind the air space that was created in each line.
This then confirms the pump sucked in the oil from the CCI tank and is now pushing it forwards in the lines.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:10 pm

That's a neat repair Allan.

The technique I use is more complicated than Allan's but works on teh same principal.

I get a small hand held oil can or syringe which i fill with oil of a very different color than the stuff in the CCI tank. I remove the pump and use the syringe to fill the oil lines with the contrasting oil until all of the oil in the lines is purged into the motor.

Then I refit the oil pump before it leaks all the oil all over the garage floor and fire up the bike.

I already know that it has enough oil to last a few miles, so no fear of seizure or mosquitoes. Then I run the bike around the block and when I get back I check to see what color is in the lines. If they have changed back to CCI color, all is fine, if one or more lines are still full of the contrast, I know I have a problem to trace and fix. If the three crank lines are only partially purged I know I have to ride further or harder.

Allan's technique has some advantages

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:21 am

That picture Dave posted is on one of my favorite t-shirts. I frequently wear this (one of my greatest home-made t-shirts):

Lane

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:30 am

Thanks Allan! How do I know I have the proper relationship (adjustment) between the oil linkage and the carb linkage?

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:59 pm

http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/gt/articles/s ... rvice1.htm

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:28 pm

There is the stock setting where the scribe line mark on the pump lever aligns with the one on the body when the throttle is at idle. However with the modern synthetics a few persons on the board, myself included, are using the full off position on the pump lever at the idle position.
Meaning visually, the linkage arm is at its farthest back when the bikes at the idle setting. The reason for this is the new oils flow better than the old stuff from the 70s and as such you can turn down the delivery a bit.
Naturally we are talking about a stock engine here, not a race tuned machine.

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:20 am

59100-18834 would that be the right number for the rebuild kit for my calipers?

I also plan to take apart the carbs and clean them. I planned on just getting new bowl gaskets. Part number for those is 13251-31210, right? Should I do the idle air fix now while they are apart, or wait until I know wether it is an issue or not?

Thanks guys.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 10:00 am

Do it while they are apart.

Pay special attention to all of the tiny drillings in the carb body and teh float bowl.

http://www.pinkpossum.com/GT750/carb/BS40carbs.htm

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Tue Nov 24, 2009 10:23 am

Thats a nice page you set for carbs on P.P. Richard